[Fiend]

Jasper you're a cunt. I spent extra effort trying to translate sensible V4s and V5s into that Font gibberish, just to help tomtom out, one-off thing.

[psychomansam]

(are we at 150 yet?)

Yes. 152 + 5 pastries.

P.s. on last trip to Font, a few weeks back, I discovered the boulangerie by Campling Les Prez did croissants filled with almond paste and chocolate and topped with more almond paste and almonds.

I put on 3 pounds. Sorry guys, bringing the mean down. 

[kelvin]

And to Kelvin - which 7A did you do at Ysgo? Just curious to get feedback for the new guide.

Really Cool Toys SDS - Higginson Scar Area.

[Oldmanmatt]

It may be Tom, that the kind of sick, twisted individual who posts in UKB; is also going to be the "funny look in the eyes" slightly obsessed type, who might just carry on long after the UKC type has retired to the bar...
AKA THE 10%...

You know, the ones who (when they finally get to the bar) start dead lifting the kegs...

[battery]

Not sure how many females will have completed the poll, or are even on ukb, probably not enough to scew your results but it would be interesting to see what the female result would be

[Stubbs]

I wonder how many of the 6 8a+ were in the cave or Dinas rock?

[Grubes]

And to Kelvin - which 7A did you do at Ysgo? Just curious to get feedback for the new guide.

Really Cool Toys SDS - Higginson Scar Area.

Slightly
As I said to you on the other channel its an odd one. when I went? There was 5 of us that tried it. Everyone on our trip but me climbs in the 7's regularly.

Nai flashed it
James (not on here) got it in a couple of goes.
TomTom could just about pull on but thats it
I could not get my fat arse off the floor
Can't remember how TTT got on but I dont think he ticked it.

[tommytwotone]

Indeed I did...last try of the weekend after snatching defeat from the jaws of victory on the previous go.

Thought it was about right for Font 7a FWIW; done harder but the grade felt about right.

[gme]

Great i am now officially worse than average. Must get out and do one of the myriad of over graded 7Cs that are out there to become average again.

Any pointers?

[tomtom]

I spat my dummy out and wandered off muttering things about 'wrecking skin' and 'first day of trip' etc..

[Muenchener]

the lower grade climbers don't really care about grade....

... are embarrassed at having to tick the lowest scoring box in a survey *again*.

I mean, ok, 6B isn't in fact the lowest scoring box but I know it will turn out to be right at the bottom in actaal results, because it was in the big survey last year.

... you're on a slippery slope that ends with taking 8a for holding the slopers on a beastmaker.

  However, I note with disppointment that 8A is for a 30 second hang with no nestling. What do I get for about three seconds, firmly nestled?

[AJM]

Slightly
As I said to you on the other channel its an odd one. when I went? There was 5 of us that tried it. Everyone on our trip but me climbs in the 7's regularly.

Nai flashed it
James (not on here) got it in a couple of goes.
TomTom could just about pull on but thats it
I could not get my fat arse off the floor
Can't remember how TTT got on but I dont think he ticked it.

Very now but potentially of use to Simon.....

The line Kelvin climbed (and Si dH and I) started from a sidepull (left facing iirc) in a slight groove and there were two options pulling out left or right basically to a slopy wrestle to top out. Neither was 7A. We thought this was RCT because the NWB guide mentions "an obvious sit start position" which we thought a sidepull flake in a groove at sit down height was, and because its where the lines in Boulder Britain have been drawn.

Your video was of one problem left which I seem to recall a local told you was RCT. We thought that that was Justice SDS, on the grounds that there was Truth which started on some big holds around chest or head height (cant quite remember) on the arête, then justice, which started (from a stand) off some minging sloper, followed by RCT from the sidepull flake I mentioned. That fitted with the lines in BB.

I think its just a case of working out which problem is which. If RCT starts where you say it does then either Truth and Justice start one problem left from where I thought they did and aren't described that well or RCT and Justice have been double claimed since they are the same thing. Alternatively the problems are described accurately and we either missed out some sort of eliminate rule or they are just misgraded.

Anyway, slightly more on topic, I'm firmly below average, I dithered between 7A (crux of currently project apparently) or 6C (6C/+ boulder) but either way I'm unsurprised to find myself deeply mediocre

[tomtom]

For Simon again: I think there may have been some discrepancy between the Boulder Britain and the NWales guide for this problem (in terms of where the line was drawn etc..). We went with the NWales description etc...

[AJM]

For Simon again: I think there may have been some discrepancy between the Boulder Britain and the NWales guide for this problem (in terms of where the line was drawn etc..). We went with the NWales description etc...

Strange, I thought BB and NWB matched very well.

An obvious "superb left arete of the block" (truth - starting on some big handholds on the arête), a "direct line 1m right of the arete" (justice, starting at a sloper with a V6 SDS), and 2 slopy tussle lines, left and right, starting from an "obvious sit down start position" for RCT and the right hand. I couldn't see from your sit start under the sloper where you'd fit a left and a right hand variation in?

And those are the rightmost problems described on the block, which means if you did RCT rather than justice SDS that there are two obvious slopy wrestles that somehow no one did when developing the block.

Anyway I need to go to the crag (the hardship!) but I thought everything tied up very well between the two guides including the grades, I think all the descriptions in NWB matched the lines in BB. I just don't think they're all correct!

[Grubes]

We thought Truth was on the arete and rocked around the other side Justice was where we all climb it on the video. This seemed to match up to NWB

For a Mod probably worth moving this Ysgo grade problem talk here http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=21488.0

[Bonjoy]

Great i am now officially worse than average. Must get out and do one of the myriad of over graded 7Cs that are out there to become average again.

Any pointers?

Calorie Count at Nuda's would probably get 7a if it was at the Tor. I sincerely hope nobody is giving themself 7c for it!
Stateside at Wimberry felt middling 7b to me.
Apparently the new beta on Brass Monkeys is supposed to be about 7b. This is a popular first 7c...

[Doylo]

Even I did Brass monkeys with the new beta and I'm shit on grit. Defo closer to 7b than 7c

[nik at work]

I've definitely been focussed on chuffing this year as I've just realised that my hardest "boulder" problem of the last twelve months was either halfway up a route (does that count??) or indoors ...

I think the only bouldering I've done outside this year was a wet week in Font and a few minutes playing on a traverse line with GCW. Hey-ho.

As for the female stats I'd be surprised if they were significantly different to the male stats to be honest, comparing like with like, i.e. dedicated climbers/boulderers. My wife climbs maybe a handful of times during the year, is not especially sporty, athletic or strong and yet will bang out a couple of 6B/+ problems on the annual family trip to Font. Gender may come in to play at the top grade power problem end of the spectrum but otherwise I think other factors will be more relevant.

[tomtom]

Even I did Brass monkeys with the new beta and I'm shit on grit. Defo closer to 7b than 7c

Whats the new beta?

[Doylo]

You hold a sloper on the right arête which makes it easier to hold the swing. Then right heel by your hand and reach the good holds

[Baldy]

What was the previous beta then?

Shirley anything else is madness?
FWIW I did think it was a bit easy for 7C, considering I still havent done Captain Hook just along the hill.

[a dense loner]

Jon did you do the problem in the guide described as stateside? If so this is 7b. Stateside is just right of the cleft without using the chips

[Pantontino]

For Simon again: I think there may have been some discrepancy between the Boulder Britain and the NWales guide for this problem (in terms of where the line was drawn etc..). We went with the NWales description etc...

Just seen the topo page from the BB select guide and the topo lines are wrong. Basically the line marked as 2 (i.e. Justice) is actually RCT. The line marked as 3 (i.e. RCT) is actually the first part of the Chaos Theory traverse (which drops down reversing RCT RH then heads left to the Truth arete. The topo pic is taken from a fairly oblique angle so the face is a bit compressed which has probably added to the confusion.

RCT is very obvious and it sounds like you have climbed it. the pics of it on the UKC database are correctly labelled - that is definitely it. I've got it down as 7A and the right hand exit from the same start as 6C+. I haven't done either for a while but will check them again next time I visit. I do remember RCT being quite a tussle (a powerful first move up left, a tricky match and a struggle getting feet up around the bulge) - maybe it's easier for shorter climbers? (I'm quite tall and have long arms)

I think I was (as Kelvin pointed out to me in a pm) at the crag on the same day, as chummer climbed this:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=658

[tomtom]

Thanks Simon. That sounds what we found when we got there. Went the nwb guide and common sense...

[kelvin]

Cheers Simon.

Sounds like we did something totally different then! Whatever we did needs to be called 'Confusion' or 'Grimer led me astray'.