Been meaning to do this for ages. But inspired by TomTom et al's Twitter plans for an impromptu visit this weekend I thought it was about time...
It's such an amazing area. In fact I reckon if I had to choose only one place to boulder (in the UK) for the rest of my life, it would be here. So many reasons; memories, birthday bashes, my stag do, family holidays, magic days when everything is perfect in the fading light at the end of the day with trashed arms and tips and then to cap it all off a pod of dolphins moves in to the bay and you're just left gobsmacked, the strong possibility of seeing Hen Harriers and Choughs etc.
Just love the place....Overviewhttp://www.climber.co.uk/categories/articleitem.asp?cate=3&topic=17&item=107Locationhttp://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1368Parking
There are two parking spots.
The main one is at the y shaped junction of the main road at the top of the track - free.
Second one is at the farm just down the road - honesty box.
Both have good paths that lead to the final (harrowing when wet) decent to the bouldering. Accommodation
Stayed here loads of times. Basic but good location and always warm.http://www.abersoch-tanrallt.co.uk/
This place is a bit further away but great if there's loads of you.http://www.cottageguide.co.uk/bryn-yr-eryr/
Not been here but good location and looks very nice.http://www.aberdaronfarmholidays.co.uk/bunkhouse.htmlGuidebooks
Si Panton's North Wales Bouldering covers the area in some detail. However it is out of print and quite out of date due to lots of development. Ysgo is not known as "the crag that keeps on giving" for nothing... You can keep abreast of development at http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/
There have been rumours of a Lleyn Bouldering Guide and also a new version of the NWB guide. Fingers crossed!
It is also covered in Grimer's http://boulderbritain.com/Boulder BritainFatneck's Recommended Problems
(off the top of my head list...)
Ysgo Flange (both versions)
Really Cool Toys
Everything on the Van Guff block
Incredible Shaking Man
SS to Uncle Pete's Arete (or Perrins Crack? Either way the arete to the right of ISM is quality)
Brian Spray (one day I will finally get this...)
Ysgo Crack (took me 10+ visits to get on this but finally did it on my stag do and it's brill!)
The in the next bay you HAVE to at least have a look at Made In Heaven. Fantastic looking problem on an amazing piece of rock. Sadly, I've never been there when it's dry... Not been on th eother stuff (American Rafiki etc) but they look good.Other/Miscellaneous
Take lots of pads! The landings (with a few exceptions) are generally bad to non-existent and I've always climbed better with a team of people and plenty of pads/spotters. That's not to say you can't go by yourself and have a great day! You just need to choose your problems carefully, drop a grade or two and stay positive. It's a long crawl...
If you like a bit of fishing, some fantastic sport can be had on lures with bass and big wrasse always a possibility along with mackerel etc in summer. The headland to the left (looking out) is Talfarach and home to another host of quality problems (another thread needed?) but is also a fairly top secret fishing mark for Tope (summer) and big Huss and Congers (all year round) as well as BIG pollock....
The actual beach of Porth Ysgo also contains some handy blocs and along with it's nice sandy beach, makes an ideal destination for a family trip if you're on the Lleyn. Just be aware of Weever Fish
. I've had two encounters with these spiny critters and despite not being particularly damaging their venom is painful and will (at least) leave you unable to get a climbing shoe on!
There is officially no surfing to be had anywhere near here...
This has been quickly done whilst at work with no guide books etc so am sure I will have missed some stuff off. Please feel free to add it etcLinksOwen's Blog