Author Topic: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread  (Read 5346 times)

Offline fatneck

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Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« on: January 24, 2013, 04:07:06 pm »
Been meaning to do this for ages. But inspired by TomTom et al's Twitter plans for an impromptu visit this weekend I thought it was about time...

It's such an amazing area. In fact I reckon if I had to choose only one place to boulder (in the UK) for the rest of my life, it would be here. So many reasons; memories, birthday bashes, my stag do, family holidays, magic days when everything is perfect in the fading light at the end of the day with trashed arms and tips and then to cap it all off a pod of dolphins moves in to the bay and you're just left gobsmacked, the strong possibility of seeing Hen Harriers and Choughs etc. 

Just love the place....

Overview

http://www.climber.co.uk/categories/articleitem.asp?cate=3&topic=17&item=107

Location

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1368

Parking

There are two parking spots.

The main one is at the y shaped junction of the main road at the top of the track - free.
Second one is at the farm just down the road - honesty box.

Both have good paths that lead to the final (harrowing when wet) decent to the bouldering.

Accommodation

Stayed here loads of times. Basic but good location and always warm.
http://www.abersoch-tanrallt.co.uk/

This place is a bit further away but great if there's loads of you.
http://www.cottageguide.co.uk/bryn-yr-eryr/

Not been here but good location and looks very nice.
http://www.aberdaronfarmholidays.co.uk/bunkhouse.html

Guidebooks

Si Panton's North Wales Bouldering covers the area in some detail. However it is out of print and quite out of date due to lots of development. Ysgo is not known as "the crag that keeps on giving" for nothing... You can keep abreast of development at http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/ There have been rumours of a Lleyn Bouldering Guide and also a new version of the NWB guide. Fingers crossed!

It is also covered in Grimer's http://boulderbritain.com/Boulder Britain

Fatneck's Recommended Problems (off the top of my head list...)

Ysgo Flange (both versions)
Simon's Arete
The Shield
Truth
Really Cool Toys
Higginson Scar
Jones Eliminate
Everything on the Van Guff block
Incredible Shaking Man
SS to Uncle Pete's Arete (or Perrins Crack? Either way the arete to the right of ISM is quality)
Foam Party
Closer
The Ramp
Brian Spray (one day I will finally get this...)
Ysgo Crack (took me 10+ visits to get on this but finally did it on my stag do and it's brill!)
Floppy's Arete
Ugly Women
Howling Hound
Fast Cars
Mutant Child
Popcorn Party
Jawbreaker

The in the next bay you HAVE to at least have a look at Made In Heaven. Fantastic looking problem on an amazing piece of rock. Sadly, I've never been there when it's dry... Not been on th eother stuff (American Rafiki etc) but they look good.

Other/Miscellaneous

Take lots of pads! The landings (with a few exceptions) are generally bad to non-existent and I've always climbed better with a team of people and plenty of pads/spotters. That's not to say you can't go by yourself and have a great day! You just need to choose your problems carefully, drop a grade or two and stay positive. It's a long crawl...

If you like a bit of fishing, some fantastic sport can be had on lures with bass and big wrasse always a possibility along with mackerel etc in summer. The headland to the left (looking out) is Talfarach and home to another host of quality problems (another thread needed?) but is also a fairly top secret fishing mark for Tope (summer) and big Huss and Congers (all year round) as well as BIG pollock....

The actual beach of Porth Ysgo also contains some handy blocs and along with it's nice sandy beach, makes an ideal destination for a family trip if you're on the Lleyn. Just be aware of Weever Fish. I've had two encounters with these spiny critters and despite not being particularly damaging their venom is painful and will (at least) leave you unable to get a climbing shoe on!

There is officially no surfing to be had anywhere near here...

This has been quickly done whilst at work with no guide books etc so am sure I will have missed some stuff off. Please feel free to add it etc

Links

Owen's Blog



A video AndiE made a couple of years ago...

Aqua Marine
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Offline Bubba

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #1 on: January 24, 2013, 05:29:55 pm »
This might be a good candidate for turning into a Wiki page once it's been running for a while :)

Offline andy popp

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #2 on: January 24, 2013, 05:44:57 pm »
You're going to hate me Si ... but I've never been  :-[
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Offline ducko

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #3 on: January 24, 2013, 05:47:50 pm »
Good info, I live 40mins away and I've never been.. Disgraceful

Offline masonwoods101

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #4 on: January 24, 2013, 06:25:33 pm »
Been wanting to go so thanks for the info (rhyme)
I am the snow!!

Offline Drew

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #5 on: January 24, 2013, 09:17:20 pm »
It's such an amazing area. In fact I reckon if I had to choose only one place to boulder (in the UK) for the rest of my life, it would be here....
Just love the place.


I'm with you all the way. Favourite place to climb ever. The climbing makes it fantastic, the area makes it magical, the memories make it special.

I might add a couple to your list too

Fatneck's Recommended Problems (off the top of my head list...)

Ysgo Flange (both versions)
Simon's Arete
The Shield
Truth
Really Cool Toys
Higginson Scar
Jones Eliminate
Everything on the Van Guff block
Incredible Shaking Man
SS to Uncle Pete's Arete (or Perrins Crack? Either way the arete to the right of ISM is quality)
Foam Party
Closer
The Ramp
Brian Spray (one day I will finally get this...)
Ysgo Crack (took me 10+ visits to get on this but finally did it on my stag do and it's brill!)
Floppy's Arete
Ugly Women
Howling Hound
Fast Cars
Mutant Child
Popcorn Party
Jawbreaker
Higginson Scar Right Hand (with plenty of pads)
Beach Boys Arete
Johnny's Slab

The Porth Ysgo Challenge


How to get there
Head to Pwllheli, and head out as Google Maps suggests here, i.e. take the main road towards Abersoch, but as you enter Llanbedrog (about 2 minutes after the scary looking, English-hating, expensive petrol station) take the steeply uphill right turn, heading towards Plas yn Rhiw. Enjoy in amazment the smoothness of the roads, and wonder why the roads in Sheffield can't all be like this. After Rhiw, keep your eyes peeled for this black telegraph pole on the right hand side of the road, indicating your turning. Follow the road to the next junction, and your parking spot is on your left.


Location

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1368

Parking

There are two parking spots.

The main one is at the y shaped junction of the main road at the top of the track - free. Added a link to Google Map
Second one is at the farm just down the road - honesty box.

Both have good paths that lead to the final (harrowing when wet) decent to the bouldering.
I am Drew, but not the Haigh

Offline Johnny Brown

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #6 on: January 24, 2013, 10:23:10 pm »
I've never stayed here but having walked past I reckon the french windows have the best view in Wales if not Britain: http://www.awelonholidaycottage.co.uk/ Its up in the village below the 'grit' crag.

Offline Dolly

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #7 on: January 25, 2013, 12:16:31 am »
Looks lovely
What's the "grit"crag ?
fat old* dads, happily married with kids, waffling on about high class sheffield restaurants and stuff.

Offline Drew

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #8 on: January 25, 2013, 12:24:01 am »
My guess would be the crag on top of the hillside which everyone always sees when driving to Ysgo, which looks very grit-like in it's shapes and features. Like something you'd see on a walk up Kinder. Apparently it's shorter than it looks, chossy, and not as steep as you'd hope.
I am Drew, but not the Haigh

Offline Probes

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #9 on: January 25, 2013, 01:10:29 am »
Ive been up to this crag, if its the obvious one on the hillside to the south as you drive aberdaron. I maybe soloed 10 micro routes up to about hvs/e1 which were pretty good and found a few worthy problems up to about v5/6. I also found a rather good roof problem coming out of a cave/hole, I remember thinking poss v8/9, but couldn't muster enough to do it, I also haven't mustered enough to ever go back up there. All a bit like a poor mans carrock but a crag if you get what I mean  :unsure:
"Low reps and high weights or high reps and low weights", "nope, high reps and high weights"

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Offline fatneck

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #10 on: January 25, 2013, 08:21:21 am »
@Andy Popp - outrageous behaviour!
@Ducko - disgraceful indeed!!
@Drew - cheers and thanks, never been sure how to link maps. I did try but obviously not hard enough!
@Bubba - good idea...
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Offline slackline

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #11 on: January 25, 2013, 10:08:58 am »
This might be a good candidate for turning into a Wiki page once it's been running for a while :)


 :agree: It would fit in perfectly here
It's beginning to look a lot like fuck this.

Offline SA Chris

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #12 on: January 25, 2013, 10:22:56 am »
Been once and loved it, long drive from Aberdeen though. Wish the coastal bouldering round here was as good. Andy Popp and ducko, the crag police will be round shortly to drag your sorry asses over there. Sort it out, this spring (take good skin!).
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Offline fatneck

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #13 on: January 25, 2013, 10:35:54 am »
Have added some info here...
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Offline slackline

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #14 on: January 25, 2013, 10:40:58 am »
Have added some info here...


Adding a link to this thread wasn't what I had in mind.

EDIT : I've added your text and formatted it for you.
« Last Edit: January 25, 2013, 10:48:43 am by slackline »
It's beginning to look a lot like fuck this.

Offline fatneck

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #15 on: January 25, 2013, 10:51:46 am »
Thanks Slackers  :bow:
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Offline slackline

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #16 on: January 25, 2013, 11:32:05 am »
Not a problem, only took 5 minutes max to format, its writing Wiki pages in the first place that takes time and you did that.
It's beginning to look a lot like fuck this.

Offline Pantontino

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #17 on: January 25, 2013, 11:59:34 am »
Ive been up to this crag, if its the obvious one on the hillside to the south as you drive aberdaron. I maybe soloed 10 micro routes up to about hvs/e1 which were pretty good and found a few worthy problems up to about v5/6. I also found a rather good roof problem coming out of a cave/hole, I remember thinking poss v8/9, but couldn't muster enough to do it, I also haven't mustered enough to ever go back up there. All a bit like a poor mans carrock but a crag if you get what I mean  :unsure:


The crag is called Mynydd y Graig. That steep line got done last winter:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=541

There is a really good leaning wall (called Graig Fawr) at the far end of the ridge (about 600m from the main crag) that you pass if walking down to Porth Nefoedd. Lovely spot in the summer as it catches the breeze and goes into the shade in the evening; also a lovely spot in the winter as it catches the sun. Some good up lines (some of which are a bit highball if you're on your own and some good traverses for lone visitors.) There's a thin, hard project line right of the big crack (and leading into a thin crack high up) if anybody with steel fingers should be passing. A full traverse of the wall might be possible for the same mutant.



Too Hard for George Smith 6C!



Warm Up Wall 5+/6A

The idea for the Lleyn Bouldering guide was ditched; instead all the crags in this area (Porth Ysgo, Trwyn Talfarach, Bytylith, Porth Nefoedd and Mynydd y Graig) will be included in the forthcoming 2nd edition of North Wales Bouldering which will be out this year. There is also another small area close by which I haven't reported yet as there are still some good projects not yet done.
« Last Edit: January 25, 2013, 12:07:22 pm by Pantontino »

Offline fatneck

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #18 on: January 25, 2013, 12:34:59 pm »
Quote from: Pantontino
The idea for the Lleyn Bouldering guide was ditched; instead all the crags in this area (Porth Ysgo, Trwyn Talfarach, Bytylith, Porth Nefoedd and Mynydd y Graig) will be included in the forthcoming 2nd edition of North Wales Bouldering which will be out this year.

Brilliant stuff Si!

Thanks...
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Offline Probes

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #19 on: January 25, 2013, 01:15:44 pm »
Ive been up to this crag, if its the obvious one on the hillside to the south as you drive aberdaron. I maybe soloed 10 micro routes up to about hvs/e1 which were pretty good and found a few worthy problems up to about v5/6. I also found a rather good roof problem coming out of a cave/hole, I remember thinking poss v8/9, but couldn't muster enough to do it, I also haven't mustered enough to ever go back up there. All a bit like a poor mans carrock but a crag if you get what I mean  :unsure:


The crag is called Mynydd y Graig. That steep line got done last winter:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=541



Thats the one, looks cracking, better than i remember it, may be i should have gone back up  :slap:
"Low reps and high weights or high reps and low weights", "nope, high reps and high weights"

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http://crusherholdsclimbing.blogspot.com/

Offline SA Chris

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #20 on: January 25, 2013, 01:32:24 pm »
At least you can console yourself that your grade estimate wasn't too far out.
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Offline Pantontino

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #21 on: January 25, 2013, 01:40:01 pm »
At least you can console yourself that your grade estimate wasn't too far out.

Probes was probably bang on - remember to always adjust up from a Pete Robins grade if you want a 'real' grade!  ;)

Offline SA Chris

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #22 on: January 25, 2013, 01:44:51 pm »
My point exactly.
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Offline Probes

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #23 on: January 25, 2013, 03:00:28 pm »
 :lol: Yes damn i keep forgetting about the Cymru conversion coefficient   
"Low reps and high weights or high reps and low weights", "nope, high reps and high weights"

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Offline SA Chris

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Re: Porth Ysgo Beta Thread
« Reply #24 on: January 25, 2013, 03:05:02 pm »
The Robins conversion coefficient; Pete's proposed V grade x 1.1, then rounded up to next whole number = actual V grade.
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