[tomtom]

In London I heard that Yoga was so popular nowadays at climbing walls, they are starting to use Y grades... Campusing 1-5-9 straight into a 'Mantis eating donut' position gets Y13..

[psychomansam]

Does anyone know how many of our strong women are going to be there ? Last I saw Shauna was in America along with Puccio and I remember hearing something about Mina going on a trip to rocklands all summer... just wondering if they are going to be competing or not??

Well dunno bout the rest but Shauna's blog starts with 'home sweet home', so I doubt that's a coincidence 

[psychomansam]

Anyone watching Wimbledon was watching the wrong final.

The tent was the place to be - scorching out in the sun today. I feel sorry for the inevitable visiting climbers, greasing off grit slopers.

The men made a decent show of it, though I think it's telling that it was nearly won by a 16 year old (Burns). Close call and everything came down to the last problem. Barrans took it, but only just - the top 5 each climbed 2, but he had the least tries.

The women - something else. Close competition for 2nd place. It all came down to the last problem. With everyone failing, the results stayed as they were and Mina was rewarded for her balance and precision on the first problem, gaining silver. She'd been one of two to top the first problem - the other was Shauna, looking fluid, relaxed and comfortable as she gained the flash. Which she also did on the 2nd and the 3rd problems, guaranteeing her win. She never seemed to have a chance at flashing the fourth problem - Puccio was relegated to 3rd after even she couldn't top it. But a couple of minutes later, Shauna was topping out - 4 problems in 4 attempts. World class.

 

[205Chris]

No Ned this year?

[psychomansam]

He didn't make the final.

Link for the final:

[abarro81]

Word on the street is that he didn't go and has quit comps... but this is 3rd hand knowledge

[Danny]

Amazing effort from Dom - good to see an Irish climber in the mix!

[GraemeA]

Amazing effort from Dom - good to see an Irish climber in the mix!

You mean a Brit with an Irish passport 

[r-man]

Just watched the replay - super impressive climbing from Shauna! Shame the live feed wasn't following her on the crux of final problem, would have been interesting to see how she did it.

[Danny]

Amazing effort from Dom - good to see an Irish climber in the mix!

You mean a Brit with an Irish passport 

I really mean a climber from Belfast.

What I should have said was:

Good to see a climber from a city with terrible, terrible climbing facilities make it so far.
 

[psychomansam]

Just watched the replay - super impressive climbing from Shauna! Shame the live feed wasn't following her on the crux of final problem, would have been interesting to see how she did it.

The live feed also missed the 2nd best bit of action which was womens problem three, when Leah broke through it - failing with a nasty fall off the top hold before flying up it second go and holding a big swing on the finish. (Puccio, after struggling at the start, then did the same, but with her power made the final throw look much easier. Shauna then flashed it and basically did the finish static, crossed-arms sideways-campus style 

Question by the way - what's the deal with Puccio? I take it she's dating someone over here - does she have a passport? Is she getting one? 

[GraemeA]

Good to see a climber from a city with terrible, terrible climbing facilities make it so far.
 

But he does have an Eddie to help him 

[GraemeA]

Question by the way - what's the deal with Puccio? I take it she's dating someone over here - does she have a passport? Is she getting one? 

Nope to the UK passport, Alex and her bloke (Nicholas Parsons, a Pikey Convict) are moving to Boulder as soon as Chris gets his visa issued.

[galpinos]

Barrans took it

I read that as "Barrows took it" and had a vision of a sea of despairing faces as the British Bouldering Championships was won by a combo of lank and rubber clad knees scums.....

[Doylo]

Barrans took it

I read that as "Barrows took it" and had a vision of a sea of despairing faces as the British Bouldering Championships was won by a combo of lank and rubber clad knees scums.....

i think he would have been pelted with rotten eggs

[willackers]

Barrans took it

I read that as "Barrows took it" and had a vision of a sea of despairing faces as the British Bouldering Championships was won by a combo of lank and rubber clad knees scums.....

i think he would have been pelted with pints of warm piss

[mr__j5]

Barrans took it

I read that as "Barrows took it" and had a vision of a sea of despairing faces as the British Bouldering Championships was won by a combo of lank and rubber clad knees scums.....

He would have loved the knee bar - no hands rest on problem 3 though.

[abarro81]

I was wondering whilst watching the end of the finals actually - are there rules on use of kneepads in comps? Graham - any clue?

[GraemeA]

No there aren't any rules that mention knee pads. It could be argued that they are aid so would be banned. But then again it could be argued that they are merely knee supports (like Nicholas Parsons was wearing in the semis) and therefore would be allowed.

[tomtom]

Nice pic from RobL (via facebork)

[psychomansam]

Question by the way - what's the deal with Puccio? I take it she's dating someone over here - does she have a passport? Is she getting one? 

Nope to the UK passport, Alex and her bloke (Nicholas Parsons, a Pikey Convict) are moving to Boulder as soon as Chris gets his visa issued.

Pity!

[Zods Beard]

I heard a rumour someone called Dave won it...

[tommytwotone]

...like Nicholas Parsons was wearing in the semis...

I take it he climbed without repetition, hesitation or deviation and took around about 60 seconds for each problem?

HONK HONK!!