[fried]

Monday - Wednesday - Sick, I'm sure I've developed hay-fever this year.
Thursday - BM session, didn't push it much. Pretty hot weather at the moment.

Friday - Friday afternoon off, so I try and fail to avoid the traffic, very slow drive to Apremonts Bizons to have a look at the blue circuit. Did some orange stuff to warm up and then played about on some red problems that I can never do. I've never been to the part of Bisons with the blue circuit and as usual I was soon wandering about in thick undergrowth. Eventually I found the beginning and started doing bits and pieces that took my fancy. Ver hot weather today (27°c) and I'm sweating just walking about. Mostly do bits of traversing. Back to the red circuit to have a last go at a problem I like, going nowhere. Very slow drive back to Paris.

Saturday - short BM session

Sunday - Indoor, lots of 6A flashes, feeling fine.

Lost 1kg this week, so back to a porky 76kg

[tommytwotone]

Quick update from me as this was defintely one of my "packed diary and no climbing" weeks!

STG: "Dirty Dozen" offwidths up to and inc. E1
LTG. Font 7b

M: Nowt.
T: Nowt, went to the theatre though.
W: Nowt, early to bed.
T: Dawn raid on Almscliff, led Goblin and Traditional Climb, seconded Clematis. Nice session. Then full day of work, followed by team member's leaving do so boozing after work until late. Cab home, kebab, bed.
F: Tired and rough all day, BBQ in the evening.
S: Massive lie-in, then off to Leeds Food Festival during the day.
S: Another early start, off to Dewsbury car boot sale for 7am kickoff. Back about lunchtime, then popped out for a nice couple of hours soloing at Almscliff in the sunshine.

[shark]

Thanks fried

11.9-6


M.
T.
W. High Tor. 2 decent attempts on High Tor project falling off mid crux both times. Bit greasy second go.
T.
F. Raven Tor. Bouldering. Worked Perverse Reverse and a guick go on Green Alternative
S.
S. High Tor. Headpointed project second attempt    (Happy Hour E66c)


Haven't really done much trad climbing to speak of in the last 6 years so well chuffed to get a new E6 done and a pretty good one at that. It is also probably my first true headpoint.

It was a bit of a truama getting back on the sharp end of a hard trad route even though it is reasonably protected but the motivation of doing a new route gave me the impetus. When I finally got through the crux on lead I forgot to take any wires for the top section and ended up doing a 40 foot runout to the Debauchery ledge which took in one of the Delicatessen cruxes.

The whole thing felt like going back in time. Last time I did a did a new trad route at High Tor was 26 years ago. I developed an obsession with the place from when I started climbing at Nottingham University and ended up doing doing 8 new routes between 85-92.

I had a play on the crux of this route a few times over the years but couldn't touch it. Fantastic feeling  to go back much older but stronger enough to do it.   

[krymson]

Monday - Yoga + sexy times with the lady friend for core and aerobic endurance.
Tuesday - Morning- Fingerboard and campus board- ladders warm up and then bump 1-2-3-4 using both drag and then half-crimp on the lower hand. Nothing too serious since this was my first time using a campus board but it was hard and felt useful.
Night - Hard Bouldering- fingery shit!
Wednesday - Route climbing - mostly vertical, concentrating on foot placement, balance, and tactics such as pacing and route reading which arent trained with bouldering.
Thursday - Core training on the monkey bars while old folks looked on in awe. Had an old man compete with me for King of the Jungle(Gym) status.
Friday - Bouldering at the local gym. Took it easy because fingers felt tweaky but still pulled harder than ever! Campusing seemed to have a huge effect on big moves- was sticking dynamic stuff and even the static but reachy moves. Totally cruised through a few problems i struggled on before.
Sat&Sun- Cold water therapy for the fingers and a bit of core.

[Eddies]

Damn fingers got worse again!

Monday: REST – BBQ!
Tuesday: Room Routine (3 sets of: 30x pushups, 10x pullups, 10x18kg bicep curls on each arm. 3min rests between sets)
Wednesday: Windgather soloing
Thursday: (3 sets of: 30x pushups, 10x pullups, 10x18kg bicep curls on each arm. 3min rests between sets)
Friday: REST
Saturday: Intake Quarry – 7 Routes on Takeaway wall 6a-6c+ all onsight. Bad finger flared up again!
Sunday: REST

[cheque]

Awesome Shark! 

I believe you're obliged to use this smiley  if you're going to log "sexy times" as training Krymson.

M- Colehill Quarry. Did a 6b+ I'd failed to do when it was wet. Partner sprung an early exit on me so no more fun.
T- Anston Stones. First visit. Fingery! Pleased that my fingers both held up and worked quite well on small holds. Didn't tick anything above 5 though! 
W- Rest.
T- Masson Lees. Warmed up by flashing a 6b+ (first time I've done this since October), did a 6c second go and did all the moves of a 7a/+ which I hope to redpoint soon.
F- Rest.
S- Rest. Had to go to a wedding.
S- More social commitments.  Fingerboard, levers and second attempt at Eddies' "Room routine" (with 10kg as 18 feels like it will snap my twig-like arms) after- did one complete set then another almost-complete set before collapsing this time.  Pull-ups felt substantially easier- did my first ever set of 10 with no breaks or kipping.

Bit of a breakthrough session on Thursday- the style of climbing on the imaginatively-named "overhanging Wall" at Masson Lees is, it turns out, right up my street and I was out with people who were climbing at a similar level of ability to me (normally I'm either loads better or loads worse than my partners). This led to getting on with it, getting on lead on a 7 (on a weeknight!) and realising that I'm actually way better than I think I am. Really psyched for the rest of the summer now.

[T_B]

I'm posting following a 5-week enforced layoff due to a lower back injury. Climbing was really aggravating it but now it's clearing up with fitness ball/core work and stretching 

STG - get base level of fitness/strength back. Focus on PE (circuits and foot-on campussing) for some Dorset DWS in August and generally as a means of not falling/jumping off much due to back.
LTG - lose 3Kg (from 88 - 85Kg) and get in bouldering shape for trips to N'umberland in September and Font in October

M -
T - Fitness ball.
W - 30 mins easy indoor boulder at lunch time testing back + 5 x 5 sets of pull ups on various holds. Core stuff.
T - As per Wednesday but 5 x 6 pull ups. Core stuff.
F - Fitness ball.
S - Churnet. Did a 6b+ and a steep 6c. Back not hurting 
S - Works circuits board. F6b, 7a, 7a and 7b/+ in two sections. Trying hard. Back still not hurting

[Dolly]

Keep up the recovery T_B. I'm currently out with a lower back problem, doing ball and core work. Hope it doesn't take 5 weeks though


Haven't posted for a couple of weeks as haven't done that much cos of my back
Spend the first week mainly lying down and actually sleeping a lot. Something to do with interleukin 6 pain response according to Mrs D. 
Got some super strength codeine from the GP which helped, then spent that weekend drinking and scowling at the mother in law through a codeine haze. Managed to do 15 very gentle minutes in the shed that Sunday to see if it helped.
Found a video on my phone from Seb's party. Obviously some local ruffian had temporarily stolen it as they were shouting in a very broad drunken Shefield accent whilst pointing the phone at Joe Picalli. Something like "JOE tek yer shirt off,  tek yer shirt off"


Last week made it to The Foundry on Monday where I did 20 level 1 probs and a couple of traverses.
W Few easy probs and some Beastmaking at the Foundry
S 30 mins in the shed
S 50 mins in the shed.


Off to see the pysio tonight to see if I'm actually making any progress -doesn't feel like it as I can't drive or sit down. I've brought a camping mat into work to lie on the floor and type whilst on my back.

[T_B]

Keep up the recovery T_B. I'm currently out with a lower back problem, doing ball and core work. Hope it doesn't take 5 weeks though
...

Off to see the pysio tonight to see if I'm actually making any progress -doesn't feel like it as I can't drive or sit down. I've brought a camping mat into work to lie on the floor and type whilst on my back.

Hmm. sounds worse than mine at the worst point (though I was having to take Co-codamol to sleep). I think mine has taken 5 weeks as I found core work too painful without using a ball, but I could have adopted the ball earlier and eased into it more gently. Feels bl**dy amazing now I am no longer in constant discomfort. Good luck.

[Duma]

S/MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - Arranged to go back to Huntshams with Lukeh - totally forgot I was doing the route setting course at TCA, so was late for that and had to stand luke up.  Setting was fun and pretty knackering, so maybe that counts somewhat toward Power Club stuff
T -
W - run, 6 miles 50 min. Had blister from last week in barefoot shoes so went back to normal shoes - felt heavy, and noticably changed stride length, working calves less and quads more
T -
F - run , 6 miles 51 min. Barefoot shoes as blister had gone, felt much more pleasant than Weds, though was slower. Feel it in calves.
S -
S - Huntshams - bit hot, but still good day. Warmed up on The Cube problems, Right Eye Socket took a fair few goes, but was pleased to flash Left Eye Socket. Repeated Alex's Roof with much more control than last week, had a play on the variations, but couldn't get psyched for what appear, as far as I can tell, to be a couple of bad sequences on a good problem. Spent a while at Bivi Buttress, felt very close to Between the Lines but ripped a flapper on my palm so moved on to attempting the roof to the right:

Couldn't touch Hamish's sequence (above) but worked out some cunning weak mans way through, though didn't manage a link. skin and muscles were fading, but managed to nip up Slugtaste and a brilliant eliminate dyno on the flakes problem at 7Aish. Attempts on The Porthole only served to confirm it was the end of the day. Couple of pints by the Wye in the evening sunshine too.

70kg.

[Muenchener]

STG: Anything from this list of Frankenjura classics
MTG (2013): Frankenjura VII onsight; Alpine multipitch VI; Welsh trad E2
   Redpoint UIAA VIII-, then 7a, then 5.12a. This should allow for a satisfying amount of Big Grade progression in a relatively short period of time
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:
T:
W:
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Short early morning bouldering session before work. Good progress on the easier of my two current projects; pocket ladders on system board.
F: Wall, Thalkirchen. Another short bouldering session.
S: DAV self-rescue course, Berchtesgaden Alps. Learning techniques that I hope not to be using when I take my Munich DAV mates to Gogarth in the summer. (Plus physical training benefit from the thousand metre grind up to the - very nice - hut where the course took place)
S: Ditto. Among many other things, a cool trick with one extra krab to make an autoblocking munter hitch.

[nai]

Effort shark. 40ft runout 

Elbow has improved enough that I am confident foolish enough to set some goals:
Next few months: steadily build the trad and onsight grades up to a crack at Flaky Wall and Resurrection toward the end of summer.  Complement with board circuits, which I've been managing this week, and also do some running and mtb so as not to overdo things (and have fun).

Autumn through to November hopefully start harder bouldering again, up the circuits and work some harder routes with an eye on getting back on Call Of Nature.

Winter - boulder, crush, not get injured, the usual...

M - 1/2 core workout
T
W - Cheedale with the intention of trying to onsight 7as, failed on the Max 6c+ but I expected it to be tough baing regarded as high in the grade and having that Max factor with loads of overchalked, smooth flat holds when you're desperate for something positive to curl your fingers into. Retro-flashed Quality Control rather than blow another potential OSable route as they are in short-supply. Finished with a few burns on Subterfuge then (feeling good) did the first laps on my Ancap circuit on the board.

T - 350Kgs of TGUs; 7.2km run

F - Aerocap board circuit - 4x4 format, 30 juggy moves which takes 1:15 to complete, experimenting with rest periods and settled on 45s between reps then with ten minutes between sets Hands got pretty sore, had to finish the last few sets foot-on-campussing but didn't complete reps 15&16.  15km mtb ride, inc 450 metres ascent.

S - long day with kids and needed to do something by evening, wanted to runbut had to settle for Aerocap, felt hard from the start but managed the first two sets of four, failed reps 11, 12 & 15 (at a cruxy downwards match which I've now changed) but rested 10s and completed. Final set F-o-C.

s - Rest. Eldest told me "Daddy I really need to go climbing."  So took them out for a couple of hours mini-slab climbing which was great, eldest is really learning to use and trust her feet and not panicking when handholds aren't juggy incuts.

[jamiev]

Nice work Simon re High Tor.

[tomtom]

2013 totals:
Outdoor: 49   
Indoor: 3 
Training: 6

Its all gone a bit blurry! I think I went to Harmers three times, and back up to Farleton once... nothing new done - but some good miles

[webbo]

Mon. Rockcity climbed mainly on the new bit. all a bit slabby ended up with fingers feeling tweaky from all the pressing out. About 25 problems up to 6c.
Tue. Bike 1 hr 7 x 1 min on 2 mins off.
Wed. Board repeated a few things that I think I hadn't repeated.
Thu. Nothing.
Fri. Board 16 problems plus each ones mirror image. got spat off a few times due to it being hot.
Sat. Bike before breakfast. 1 hr 20 secs on 40 secs off x 5 3 sets. Drive to Haweswater 2 hour walk along lakeside with the missus.
Sun.5 hour walk up Nan Bield Pass and along High street plus a bit of getting lost.

Had 2 nights in the Lakes but wasn't allowed to take any climbing gear or my bike. Due to it being the wifes birthday present from her boss. Got to see some red squirrels and a great spotted woodpecker on the hotel terrace though.