I am currently suffering from Achilles Tendonitis, bumps on the back of my heel. Doing stretches to relive it, would it still be ok to going climbing? Thanks Charlie
Hi Matt,Just after some advice if possible on how best to rehab a torn A4 pulley on my ring finger. I popped it just under a week ago- it made a nice pinging noise but didn't hurt at the time. Now the tenderness is mostly gone I've started ice water treatment once a day and gently squeezing a sponge ball. It actually feels pretty good which makes me think that the tear was a very small one, so I guess what I'm asking is - when can I start climbing again, and what can I do to help heal and strengthen the finger? I haven't had a finger injury like this before so it's new territory really. Is it worth taping, I've heard mixed things about this?Cheers for your time!
I've woken up today with a very unhappy right knee. I had a few goes on a problem with quite a powerful throw off a high heel last night. I didn't feel anything pop or go at the time but the go I did the problem I was definitely aware that the knee felt a bit wrong after the move. I finished my session (at least another hour of climbing though no more right heels) without any discomfort and walked around for the rest of the evening with no problems.I woke up with it very stiff and sore when trying to move it, the head of the fibula is quite tender to the touch. I have full ROM with a just a little pain when the knee is full bent if I am not weighting the leg, bending it far when standing on it feels a bit grim. What seems to be the big problem in terms of movement is if I lie with my knees bent at 90 degrees on the left side, I really struggle to lift the lower right leg from the left. Walking is generally ok so long as I go very slow, feels quite unnatural though. Worst functional thing is going down stairs, bending the bad leg to put the good one the next step down isn't very nice.I've just been taking it pretty easy today and working from home with a bit of icing. I guess I'm looking for a rough prognosis and how worried I should be? I'm in Sheffield and happy to come and see you guys but wondering if it's worth seeing my GP or if I'm just being paranoid and it'll be ok in a few days. Also, does this sound like something that would benefit from a knee support?Cheers,Alistair
For the last 1/2 weeks I've had I have got a constant tingling sensation in my fingers and sounds like it's pops when I pick up something or go to a hold, worse when I've just woken up, some times get a weak hand. Just hoping it's not Carpel Tunnel? Cheers Charlie.
Hi Matt,I've started doing some squats in the gym recently. The weight I'm using doesn't seem excessive (80kg, bodyweight is 76kg), in that I'm not particularly sore after each session and I can happily maintain what looks to me like good form throughout. However, for a couple of hours after each session, I've had some numbness/pins and needles in my right arm. This is mainly in the tip of my thumb, the thumb side of my index finger and, to a lesser extent, along my radius and lateral upper arm. I'm guessing this is a nerve issue? It feels quite tight all around the medial side of my elbow when I'm actually lifting, and my shoulder flexibility isn't great...What should I do? I'm not too worried about this at the moment as the effects seem temporary and have perhaps been decreasing slightly in severity (I've done 4 sessions over 4 weeks so far). If it is flexibility related, will continuing to do the exercise improve things gradually? It certainly feels like a decent non-painful stretch for some things I know should improve.Thanks,Ben
Hi Matt,4 weeks ago I injured my shoulder/triceps, not sure how i did it, nothing felt bad during my usual week of training but my best guess is I strained it doing reverse shoulder fly's with a resistance band as these are the only new excesses Ive been incorporating into my training as a way to warm down after weights.The week that followed the injury i took off training my shoulders all together as pretty much the most painfull thing I found was to hang from a bar or fingerboard. Climbing outside didn't hurt so Ive continued to do that.Ive visited my usual physio twice, he has told me that Ive damaged my sub scapularis rotator cuff and i should avoid doing anything painfull but to rehab regularly doing the usual rotator cuff exercises with a band or light weight... This Ive been doing now for 3 weeks, and Ive started to reintroduce fingerboarding although i find warming up painfull!What do you think? Thanks in advance
Hi there,I have picked up a hamstring strain which has now recurred and is in danger of becoming (literally!) a pain in the butt.Started about 1 month ago, after a hard session threshold bouldering using a poor R heel hook. After the session I noticed a pull in my R hamstring roughly at the buttock crease.Few days rest and it seemed to have gone, did some medium runs and modest climbing no probs.BUT about a week ago I did a harder route which needed a high step then aggressively pulling down on that high (and out to the side) right toe. Started hurting again to the extent where I can feel the pull all the time, and even non-heel hook climbing hurts if I step above knee height.At present I am resting it and have done a bit of gentle foam rolling to try and loosen up the tightness in the general area. Anything else I can do to speed recovery?I am conscious that I have neglected my usual yoga and stretching over the last 4 months in the quest for more power. Haven't been doing any leg weights recently, and usually do 2 modest runs each week (30-40mins c 6k).Btw Matt, please do remind us where your practise is, and how to book with you!
Hey Matt - amazing resource - ta muchly.I cant remember how I did it, but I do remember a sort of numb sensation down the back of my hand from between my index and middle knuckles running down about half way to my wrist. The numbness wore off pretty quickly and I assumed I'd just bashed a hold on the way down. Never stopped climbing. Now about a week later I have a very tender area that extends from what feels like the same area between the knuckles mentioned above down to my wrist. It's a shooting pain if I touch it and similar shooting pain and tightness if I extend my arm and try to fully articulate my fist?I've asked my GP who reckons its something to do with an extensor tendon (tear?) and has prescribed ibuprofen gel (which seems pretty useless because its sore to apply..). Keen on a second opinion and any advice?
I injured my A2 about 3.5 months ago and I think I have perhaps been a little harsh on it at times since then but I have been able to climb on it at 90% plus of normal use without really having any issue but it still nags at me and I can feel that there is something wrong with it most of the time. If I hit it against something unexpectedly it hurts but prodding it afterwards doesn't produce the same reaction. It was never a particularly bad injury and there was no pop etc.I have taken nearly a week of because I am on holiday and its a little better (doesn't really feel like anything is wrong). I type on a computer all day for work usually so I don't know if the lack of climbing or lack of typing is what is helping.Is this normal? I think that somewhere in dave macleods literature it mentions that sometimes you will feel a pulley injury for months after its healed and then one day it will just disappear but I wanted to hear your opinions on this.
Quote from: cheers big ears on March 31, 2015, 06:43:44 pmHey Matt - amazing resource - ta muchly.I cant remember how I did it, but I do remember a sort of numb sensation down the back of my hand from between my index and middle knuckles running down about half way to my wrist. The numbness wore off pretty quickly and I assumed I'd just bashed a hold on the way down. Never stopped climbing. Now about a week later I have a very tender area that extends from what feels like the same area between the knuckles mentioned above down to my wrist. It's a shooting pain if I touch it and similar shooting pain and tightness if I extend my arm and try to fully articulate my fist?I've asked my GP who reckons its something to do with an extensor tendon (tear?) and has prescribed ibuprofen gel (which seems pretty useless because its sore to apply..). Keen on a second opinion and any advice?Hi, sorry about the delay in responding, I have been away for easter. Numbness tends to mean nerve irritation. You may have compressed or stretched part of the radial nerve into your hand. It should recover with regular wrist movements. Perhaps give me a call on 0114 2671223 next week if it hasn't settled and we can have a better discussion.regardsMatt
Hi guys,Firstly thanks, this is a great idea!Secondly, I've been suggested to post something here as I have finger pain that is currently preventing me climbing at my normal level. This started approx 3 weeks ago after I had completed a series of crimpy problems on the edge of my ability, which I had been working for a few back to back sessions.The pain/ache is generally at the base of my fingers (base of my proximal phalanges), predominantly my ring fingers. I have noticed this before when I have been over-crimping on problems, have subsequently eased off for a couple of weeks alongside taping below my knuckle joint (which seemed to help with the ache whilst climbing) and things have improved.This time however feels a bit different, particularly on my right ring finger, the ache is more constant with pain if I squeeze my hand around something. I have also noticed pain in my knuckle joint and if I squeeze my intermediate phalanges it is also tender.If I massage around my proximal phalanges the ache seems to ease, ibuprofen has also helped. I have continued to climb approx 2-3 times a week restricting myself to easier problems and trying to open-hand or pinch only (I have noticed though a bad tendency to want to crimp most things!) this however still causes some level of discomfort.I'd be interested to hear any suggestions as to what this might be, whether I should see a physio in person whether it sounds like fatigue or an injury, taping suggestions, exercise suggestions or anything else important!Thanks,Beccie