[rich d]

Sorry this is off topic but why does Chris Craggs seem to have such a problem with UKB?

[Doylo]

I just hate them - just had a look at the Yellow Page sample Chris mentions above. This is like one of the easiest, most obvious and best known (non-LPT) walls around yet:

- Cornhollio gets a trad grade despite being a sport route (it's even 7b on their own website!)
- there is no mention of wires (useful on both Pirates and String of Pearls for example)
- the description for String of Pearls utterly fails to capture any of the essence of what is the classic of that wall; from what they say you'd think it was a wall climb and while it sort of is, its nature is more that of a slab with a steeper finish.

This is one small section, a section they choose to release as a sample yet there is so much wrong with it. This says everything you need to know about the level of effort Rockfax make, virtually none.

Genuinely, what about the boycott thing: get V12, Joe Brown, Cotswold not to list the Rockfax book? Ask Cordee (distributors) what their view on the situation is, make sure Richard knows what the score is. Get people like Rab Carrington, Dave Turnbull involved. When people are out and about with the great and the good make them aware - who knows maybe Steve McClure might write about it.

Pete has done such a huge amount of work, I'm wetting my pants about the new guide (it looks so good), it would be such a shame if Rockfax piggy-backed this in their lazy and totally lacking in art / passion / soul way.

No FA details for Badger badger badger and topo line wrong. No FA for Cornhollio.

Sorry this is off topic but why does Chris Craggs seem to have such a problem with UKB?

cos boulderings not proper cragging

[Dolly]

Accident of birth
What if his name had been Ben Boulder or Tim Trad ?

[Probes]

Good will, that is an interesting concept. The UKB thread is full of bitter vitriol, unpleasant comments and a general air of malice?


Chris

     sucker for punishment

[Greg C]

Pete your guide looks excellent, I hope it sells well for you. It certainly looks like it should.

[dave]

Accident of birth
What if his name had been Ben Boulder or Tim Trad ?

The RZA has already bagged Bobby Boulders.

[tc]

I just hate them - just had a look at the Yellow Page sample Chris mentions above. This is like one of the easiest, most obvious and best known (non-LPT) walls around yet:

- Cornhollio gets a trad grade despite being a sport route (it's even 7b on their own website!)
- there is no mention of wires (useful on both Pirates and String of Pearls for example)
- the description for String of Pearls utterly fails to capture any of the essence of what is the classic of that wall; from what they say you'd think it was a wall climb and while it sort of is, its nature is more that of a slab with a steeper finish.

This is one small section, a section they choose to release as a sample yet there is so much wrong with it. This says everything you need to know about the level of effort Rockfax make, virtually none.

Genuinely, what about the boycott thing: get V12, Joe Brown, Cotswold not to list the Rockfax book? Ask Cordee (distributors) what their view on the situation is, make sure Richard knows what the score is. Get people like Rab Carrington, Dave Turnbull involved. When people are out and about with the great and the good make them aware - who knows maybe Steve McClure might write about it.

Pete has done such a huge amount of work, I'm wetting my pants about the new guide (it looks so good), it would be such a shame if Rockfax piggy-backed this in their lazy and totally lacking in art / passion / soul way.

No FA details for Badger badger badger and topo line wrong. No FA for Cornhollio.

Sorry this is off topic but why does Chris Craggs seem to have such a problem with UKB?

cos boulderings not proper cragging

But he's rubbish at proper cragging.

[bubbles]

cos boulderings not proper cragging

But he's rubbish at proper cragging.

How many times have you done the Great Wall on Cloggy, free without chalk or cams?

[andy_e]

Whoa, UKC style leading question alert!

[tc]

Whoa, UKC style leading question alert!

Can I bite please? Can I?? Can I??! Oh, go on...pleeeeze let me bite him.

[andy_e]

Go on, don't let me stop you embarrassing him!

[ianv]

The UKB thread is full of bitter vitriol, unpleasant comments and a general air of malice?

At a press conference today, a UKB spokesperson refuted this statement catagorically!


Dont keep pointing out errors in the guide, you are doing their beta testing for them 

[fried]

Quote from UKC unless it mysteriously disappears.

"First of all thank you for your kind words about the A55 Sport Climbs guide. Thats the sort of payback I value along with seeing people out at the crags with the guide.

To answer your question, as far as I am concerned, there will be a third edition of the A55 guide at some point in the future. Having said that I fully support the forthcoming NWL guide authored by local activists Pete (the banned) Harrison and Andy Boorman.

It should be appreciated how much work has gone into re-equipping and new routing as well as checking of routes for the new guide by local climbers and activists and which has been fully supported by the North Wales bolt fund. All of this is entirely unpaid and all the profits from the guide will go to the North Wales bolt fund. The whole concept is about climbers doing it for themselves as well as for the wider climbing community.

The profits generated will mean more re-equipping and more new routes which will be in the interests of the climbing community rather than swelling the profits of Rockfax.

The new NWL guide itself has been something of a marathon journey but even though amateurs are compiling it, anyone who has seen sample pages will agree that it is a top quality product and up there with the best. Hopefully it will be out before the Autumn.

Despite Alan James' pages of meally-mouthed words there is little justification for the new Rockfax guide other than more profits for Rockfax. There is already a selected guide to North Wales in GroundUp's excellent North Wales Rock and that will be supplemented by the forthcoming NWL guide - so it can't be to plug a gap in the market. GroundUp are an outfit of locals with a real feel and passion for the area and who produce very high quality guides. They deserve to be supported. The area is also very well served by a number of CC definitive guides.

By the way, more money has been donated from the modest royalties of "A55 Sport Climbs" to the North Wales bolt fund than Rockfax say they have donated.

Rockfax's cherry picking of the best of the Ormes (and to a lessor extent the A55 crags) will inevitably result in less money for the bolt fund.

The guide book buying public have a choice. Buy the new Rockfax guide and contribute to their profits or support the work of the local climbing community and the North Wales bolt fund and buy the forthcoming North Wales Limestone Guide and the GroundUp North Wales Rock guide (if you haven't already got one).

Do not buy the Rockfax North Wales Climbs guide.

Michael Doyle"

[SA Chris]

He needs wadding. As does Quiddity, whoever they are.

[Grubes]

As does Quiddity, whoever they are.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=7320
Used to post there as Plexiglass Nick
Wad away

[andy popp]

Alan and crew are getting a right pasting over there in their own backyard.

[csurfleet]

Most viewed thread on the homepage of their forums and they are not winning the argument. It'll be getting locked before long...

[Doylo]

He needs wadding. As does Quiddity, whoever they are.

What's the opposite of that's my boy? That's my daddy 

[andy popp]

If anyone's got of copy of their Western Grit could they pm me? I have my own reasons for despising them but just want to double check something. Ta.

[Jaspersharpe]

Go on Doylo's dad! 

[csurfleet]

If anyone's got of copy of their Western Grit could they pm me? I have my own reasons for despising them but just want to double check something. Ta.

Either myself or grubes have one (can't remenber which of us!), I'll take a look on the shelf when I get home

[andy popp]

Cheers, should have said 2nd Edition.

[AJM]

Most viewed thread on the homepage of their forums and they are not winning the argument. It'll be getting locked before long...

It does look a bit like Alan has lost the impetus - he is responding to other people's version of the story rather than being able to proactively tell his own.

[Fiend]

I got given a copy of Western Grit 2nd Ed for having a photo in it. I sold it straight away and used the money to put towards the BMC Eastern Crags guide, which I had been offered for free for having multiple photos in it, but declined as I'd rather buy it. In short, errr, sorry can't lend you one Andy.

P.S. Go doylo snr!

[andy popp]

I got given a copy of Western Grit 2nd Ed for having a photo in it. I sold it straight away and used the money to put towards the BMC Eastern Crags guide, which I had been offered for free for having multiple photos in it, but declined as I'd rather buy it. In short, errr, sorry can't lend you one Andy.

Good god, I don't want to borrow one! Just to check something