Pull up bar - Wide grip and close grip pull ups and pull ups with legs raised (killer on my lower back!)Holding a static position on a 20mm edge with feet on a chair as far as possible behind the fingerboard - Had to fight the urge to sag, felt like an extreme plank!Holding one arm lock offs with feet on a chair stretched out behind the board[/b][/sub]
I had similar experiences to you when I went to the Bowderstone (and the Cave on a handful of trips). I was a pitifully weak lover of tiny crimps and came badly unstuck when I tried to apply my natural climbing style, much admired by the three-toed sloth. What little success I ever managed was only after months of going to steep indoor bouldering walls and forcing myself to throw between holds more. By all means get all the heelhook beta going, but once your feet are in right, hurl for the next hold and don't try to static it out - move quick before you sag.
The first excercise in the video is part of what I do for core. Trying go get a hold as far as possible, without cutting loose. As you see, you have to be precise and progressive. I hope this helps.
http://www.onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/old-school-drills-foot-off-bouldering.htmlMight be useful.
Deadhangs on Slopers, Open handed Front 3, Back 3, Middle 2 and Half Crimp 4 fingers.Pull-ups on a 30mm edge half crimpedPull up bar - Wide grip and close grip pull ups and pull ups with legs raised (killer on my lower back!)Holding a static position on a 20mm edge with feet on a chair as far as possible behind the fingerboard - Had to fight the urge to sag, felt like an extreme plank!Holding one arm lock offs with feet on a chair stretched out behind the board
I can't help but feel these exercises miss the point a little. It seems to me the general advice in this thread has been that you need to learn to move dynamically (i agree with this, it's one of my weaknesses too), all these exercises are focused on static strength. I'm almost certain that if you got to the stage where you could do a one arm front lever you'd still find the cave desperate without improving your dynamism.The easiest way to improve this would be Dave Macs feet-off bouldering and bouldering on steep stuff but you have said you don't have access to these things. So how can you achieve dynamism with a pull-up bar and a finger-board?Difficult! My suggestion would be along the lines off. - Fast pull-ups - really try and accelerate upwards - progress to clapping at the apex of the pullup. - Pull-ups with ceiling tap. Do a pull-up then try touch the ceiling above the bar with one hand - key is that ou have to let go of bar with one hand for brief period. - Campus between your fingerboard and campus rung. good for practising timing. Ideally you would like a bigger rung and a bigger distance to campus - stick to big holds this is about perfecting movement not getting strong. - Go to kids playground and campus around on monkey bars. Or use a tree? - Practise jumping to you bar/fingerboard. - with feet on chair - bounce both hands together between different holds on fingerboard/campus rung - anything to move dynamically... letting go of one thing and quickly grabbing another.Really I would stress that there is no good substitute for climbing steep stuff as training for steep stuff.
But I was also looking to do at least something (rather than nothing at all) at home that would help even the slightest bit so I just came up with a few exercises and was looking for feedback on them.
Quote from: MJC on June 05, 2013, 07:05:15 pmhttp://www.onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/old-school-drills-foot-off-bouldering.htmlMight be useful.Cheers, SEDur posted this on the first page of this thread. Good knowlege by MacLeod.Started reading 9 out of 10 Climbers again the other day. Good section in there about pulling with the feet on steep stuff.
Which ocean is that?
