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3 and 2 finger hangs - Drag or Half Crimp? (Read 13404 times)

krymson

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i think i hit the nail on the head(at least for me).

I've hanged front 3 half crimp twice in the past two weeks -  now just came back from bouldering and was super solid on all the crimps.

Usually ill feel tweaky after hard bouldering but today the fingers felt absolutely fine after 3 hours of hard problems and as if they could have gone for a few more rounds.

The ring finger was definitely a personal weakness and the front 3 hangs really rounded things out. If you're not doing these already, you need to be!

The explanation is in my previous post but to summarize, the theory is (assuming average finger morph) with a 4 finger crimp your index and middle fingers get the full brunt of the action, while your ring finger gets assisted by the neighboring pinky finger.  These means the ring finger stays weak crimping while the other fingers get strong -- leading to an imbalance and high potential for pulley poppin.

With a 3 finger grip the forces on the 3 hyperextended fingers are relatively equal -- this highlights the inherent weakness of the ring finger forcing you to work it.

It's not just for injury prevention either- balancing out front 3 will massively improve the stability of your crimp and let you climb significantly stronger. 

 

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