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[Leicestershire][Forest Rock][7B] Dark Magic (Read 1725 times)

i_a_coops

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Counter line to Enchantress: sit start on slab to the right of Enchantress, goes up and left following a diagonal flake then the crackline and hanging flake. Finish matched at the top of Magician. Did it a few weeks ago and thought it rather good.

I did it at night with a dodgy headtorch (hence the name), so 7B is a bit of a shot in the dark. (har har).

mark20

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I got asked to leave this crag once, since it's pretty much in someone's back garden it's worth keeping a low profile, ie night climbing possibly not a great idea?
Good effort on the new problem though

i_a_coops

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Fair point. I've actually posted on the FR conditions thread myself to let people know that access to the crag depends on keeping a low profile, I'd hate to see the place banned.

I don't think being there for 15 minutes after dark with an underpowered headtorch while making a conscious effort to be silent should have done anything to jeopardize access though. A full on night session with multiple flashlamps, ghetto blaster, and people screaming 'send it dude!' would DEFINITELY not be a good idea though!

Having spoken to the homeowner, his objection to climbers right now is entirely noise based.

monkey boy

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I agree loud whooping even in glory should be kept to a minimum. Last time I was there there was a bit of this going on but I felt bad telling the guys as they were obviously happy to do their projects.

Maybe a sign could be put up by the home owner saying climbers are welcome but to keep the noise to minimum then people who go there who don't look here would know.

i_a_cooper do you know the home owner and could have a word?

i_a_coops

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I'm afraid I don't know the guy, I talked to him once as a result of abbing down Sorceress. He was worried that I might be drilling!

However, the crag is on public land and climbing IS permitted, so I think putting a discreet sign up would be a really good idea. If I wasn't about to go on a trip I'd volunteer.

 

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