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French trip help (Read 983 times)

i_a_coops

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    • Ian Cooper
French trip help
May 19, 2013, 09:12:40 pm
I'm off to France for the next three months, plan is for a week or two in Tarn, then a few weeks in Ceuse, and beyond that I've not got firm plans, though I like the look of Boffi and Gorge de la Jonte.

A few of the people coming out to climb with me after that are more keen on slabby/less steep routes up to about 7a/+, while I'm more excited the steeper it gets. Would Boffii be a good bet?

Also, does anyone have experience of the Dentelles? Chaine du Clapis looks like it fits the bill perfectly but I've never heard of anyone going there. Essentially I'm asking if the hard sector is as good as it looks in the Rockfax!

Also, anyone been to Gorge du Blavet? Looks like there's three mega esoteric long steep granite 8s, which sounds like my idea of heaven. Would be very interested if anyone's done them or any of the adventure-y 6s around there.

mrjonathanr

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#1 Re: French trip help
May 19, 2013, 09:43:35 pm
Haven't climbed in France for many years - but used to, a lot. Jonte had a good reputation, never been.

I went to the Dentelles de Montmirail once - cool day out, steep rough orange rock in a great setting. Don't know how much steep stuff there is overall, haven't seen Rockfax.  I'd be tempted to do some long classic rambling things, for the experience.

On the other hand once at Céuse you may not want to leave.  Go to the Verdon if you can. Southern France is a limestone climbers paradise.

 

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