[fried]

Monday - Nothing
Tuesday - Indoor, different wall closer to where I was working, remarkable how walls differ in style and make of hold. Glad I chose wall as no.1 as this one is humid and stifling.
Wednesday - no
Thursday - As part of my back to basics session I chose the orange at Rocher Canon, this is a very old circuit from the 1950's, but I wanted a circuit that I hadn't done too much of before. It became obvious fairly quickly that it wasn't the best choice. I missed the first problem as a group of germans had pu there beer towels over it and moved on to the second, no problem until around the sixth when it becomes obvious that the problem is designed to be run withou touching the ground and lugging a crash-pad around is not an ideal way to do it, unfortunately, my pad lives in the car and there's no way I'm leaving it there in the parking.

I spent a lot of time back tracking trying to get my mat and refind the circuit but all good fun although I got no where near the end before I give up.

Friday - Wasn't planned but have the day to myself so continue with the B-B session. Head off to Beauvais Nainville to do the orange circuit that I've never even seen. Really nice choice, easy problems, not high, lots of traverses, fly round 40 problems although don't top out a few at the end 'cos my shoulders are starting to give me grief as I'm not used to all this topping out. Try to find the start of the blue circuit but end up having to ask directions back to the car park as I have no idea where I am.

I can't recommend this bit of the forest enough if you're with beginners or kids ( 2 kids circuits, a F circuit for adults, plus a yellow and orange...), perfect for a picnic and nicely shaded in the summer.

Saturday - nothing
Sunday - Tempted to go out again but I listened to my body and had a long lie-in. It's 'rentrée day today and the traffic would be awful I needed to leave early, so I have a shortish, unmotivated indoor session.

Nice week, 4 sessions, no BM but what the hell.

[shark]

Thanks fried

11.7-8

M.
T.
W.  AM. First visit to Tor this year. Bit drizzly but ok conds. Had 3 working goes on Anger Management and did pretty well compared to last year Had a play on weedkiller trav at the end.
T. 
F.  PM. Three finger weighted deadhangs. Pinch training. A few deadlifts.
S.  AM. Tor again. Drizzly. No takers for routes. Worked Perverse Reverse for first time. Felt wiped out at the end. Had a bath and a nap when got home.
S.
 
Continued low level cold all week which isn't helping already low psyche.

Bit of post match navel gazing about Oak failure:

http://27crags.com/climbers/shark/blog/one-move

[Dolly]

M Swimming in the North Sea !
T 7k run. Longest for ages. Just need to run slowly with small steps and my achilles is OK
W The Wave. Good sess
T Quick sess in the shed
F 7k and a bit run after work. Finally booked to see Steve @ Hallamshire physio
S Flirted with Shark re the tor but ended up going out late so wouldnt have worked out. I will go there with him soon though. Froggatt assorted. Wanted to do Dreamtime but top was wet and green despite Bonjoy's recent cleaning. Had a look at Iain F's new thing which looks ace but needs 3 mats to make safe. Failed on Marx's Wall @ Curbar. Has anyone actually done this from a sitter ?
S Tired all day. Did some more on the shed mini reset

[kelvin]

Thanks fried.

Mon - Pembroke. Shocking day really, wasn't sure why. Got on Flanker, bit tough at the crux for me so eventually made a belay and brought Dale up to finish the route. Found a layback to get up it after, different to Dale. Then failed on a Severe, just had nowt in my brain.
Tue - Worked late. Sore.
Wed - PE Fingers but sore around lower back so sacked it off. Massive bruising appearing on knees and arse.
Thu - Worked late. Sore.
Fri - Still sore.
Sat - Worked.
Sun - Worked. Soreness easing a little.

Left Pembroke really disappointed, which was daft really after my first VS lead. I let it intimidate me a little. In hindsight, I think I spent the Sun and Mon running on adrenalin as I'm pretty sure all the bruising and soreness was caused when I was wiped out by the wave on Saturday.

In reflection, I'm now proper psyched! Such an amazing place and I've got a far better idea of what to expect of certain grades and what weaknesses I need to work on. Just need to see the physio this week as something's not right from the bashing at Pembroke - then it's onwards through the summer. Goals remain the same.

[cheque]

Nice blog Shark. I know I'm not the only one who finds your commitment to the Oak inspirational.

M- Rest.
T- Skipping and core.
W- Colehill Quarry post-work fix. Flashed a 6c. Well, I'd done the top section before as it's shared with another route, but I onsighted the bit which makes it a 6c. Hardest lead so far this year. Felt great and full of confidence all evening. 
T- First repeaters session for bloody ages. Feeling strong.
F- Rest.
S- Rest.
S- Skipping and first max hangs session since mid-March. Lost some ground since then, but fingers feeling fine at the end.

Feel like I'm getting back into it now- really psyched to properly push it again on routes ASAP.

[Muenchener]

STG: Redpoint 7a (most likely indoors). Anything from this list of Frankenjura classics
MTG (2013): Frankenjura VII onsight; Alpine multipitch VI; Welsh trad E2
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M: Middle-aged dad's shoulders/core/housework routine: iron a shirt, do a set of press-ups, iron a shirt, do a plank ...
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Bouldering. Such a relief to do a training session that's actually interesting & fun instead of grinding out endurance circuits. Ticked a problem on the black "sehr schwer" circuit in four goes; I've only ever managed a couple of those before, so may not have become so drastically weak after all.
W:
T: Attempted my first proper 6B+ on proper rock, local classic Indian Summer at Konstein. Nice bloc, totally my anti-style - upside down, three dimensional - so a good learning experience. Found the move that the guy on youtube thinks is the crux ok, but couldn't figure out the start, toe-hooking out from under an arch, at all. So now I have three projects at Konstein, two 6c+ routes and a 6B+ bloc.
F: Wall, Thalkirchen. Short bouldering session.
S:
S: Unable to lure any climbing partners outside on a rainy day, unable to summon any motivation for pulling on plastic. What to do? Heinous weather hill walking obviously. Aiplspitz north ridge. 1,000 metres height gain / 2 hours / continuous heavy sleet in the middle of May, lovely, felt like I could have been back in blighty.

Weight nearly 80kg  Goal: 75kg for Wales in September.

[nai]

Still injured and not done anything that will get me up Resurrection, Call Of Nature or Brad Pit but I have been building a long overdue board and I'm quite happy with the outcome.  I've added a few holds since the pictures were taken and it's coming together nicely, pretty psyched to get using it.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-F-ZwOsuWITTThSUWdPT1QtMDQ/edit?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-F-ZwOsuWITZmdaN0N0MnB5d3M/edit?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-F-ZwOsuWITY2RyWXlPd25YQ2s/edit?usp=sharing

[krymson]

Mon: back at the project ... sent on second rp try of the day. First 5.13, YYFY, etc

Nice! 

which shoes were you wearing? kinda curious from the other thread.

Shoulder has been slightly peculiar for about 10 days, so going to avoid climbing/ upper body stuff for a week or so and hope it quietens down. Forecast is shit anyway.

do you do any shoulder exercises? it's a pretty complex joint so if you have a chance during the downtime(or perhaps later, don't want to irritate anything) try some shoulder exercises - shoulder press, side raise, and that rotary cuff mumbo jumbo. I try to warm it up and move it around thoroughly before climbing as well.

I think most people know these things subconsciously but are't motivated since there is no immediate pay off. The exercises work though! And for what its worth round shoulders are sexy.

[Eddies]

Monday: Llandberis Pass Bouldering – Worked Jerrys roof, did all the moves but not enough juice to link. Flashed King of the drunks and The Minimal.
Tuesday: REST
Wednesday: Room Routine (3 sets of: 30x pushups, 10x pullups, 10x18kg bicep curls on each arm. 3min rests between sets)
Thursday: CWP hangboard session – 5 sec hangs
Friday: REST
Saturday: Chapel Session – 2.5hrs on the 45 and Barrel. Went better than expected!
Sunday: Swim Steam & Sauna in am. CWP hangboard session – 5 sec hangs in pm

[Ti_pin_man]

my first  post from a crap climbing week -I usually climb more, honest gov- but I wanted to get started:

Monday - nowt - Bank Holiday
Tuesday - cycled 20 miles
Wednesday - 3 hours at Spider (concentrated on strength routes) inc dead hang reps and leg pull ups
Thurs - cycled 20 miles follwed by pull ups - crap idea wasnt warmed up and hurt next few days
Friday - visited Big Rock but did zero
Weekend - nowt, married life plus visited friends and sampled his Bourbon collection

 

need to loose some more weight

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Sort out elbow and finger.

M: RICE
T: Work
W: Work
T: Aprox 8 mille fell run - first time in a while, shocked myself! I'M A FUCKING MACHINE!!!!! (did feel like I could run forever tho).
F: Nowt
S: Slacklining with a bunnch of kids.
S: Aprox 10 mile fell run - OMG! It wasn't a fluke... Ran with some Dark Peakers and didn't get dropped once.. Even had enough in the tank for a sprint finish!!!! Great!

Fuck climbing I'm gonna get into this running malarky Seriously tho, surprised myself seeing as I've not run more than about 6 miles in the last 4 months.. Seeing a sports masseur about the elbow this afternoon so will stop all this crazy talk once I can pull again!

This week: 2 back to back sub 24hr Bob Grahams

:D

[Fiend]

I dreamt I could run again the other night, and dreamt I was running some weird cross country race last week. Weird shit.

[Sasquatch]

Tough and Busy Week. My wife went sailing for a week, so I was solo dad plus full time work.

M - Managed to get outside for the first real outing of the year.  Tons of snow, but still able to climb.
T - Run 5mi
W - FB/Run 2mi.  Finger pulley felt really good.  Will continue with the FB
Th - Run 4mi
F - FB/Run 2mi
S - Off, Rest. 
S - Run 6mi

Weather was pretty crap after Monday, so it was nice to get outside.  Took a big fall and was very thankful for the snow landing. 

[Duma]

Been away so two in one:

S/MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

Week 168:
M - nights
T - nights
W - Cheddar with Tom for another go at Tombstone - much better from the beginning: was totally dry, felt properly rested. Did it from the lip, then 4 moves in, then dropped the penultimate move from the start (prob through over confidence), did it next go. Felt straightforward really - did it again 20 min later for tom to get diff angle.  Then nights
T - nights
F - drive to Carlisle
S - drive to Skye, ferry to Harris
S - hike couple of hours
Week 169:
M - shovel sheep muck
T - hike 5hrs, found some amazing looking DWS and some good looking boulder probs with sadly much less attractive landings. Wasn't a climbing holiday though.
W - shovel sheep muck
T - buy tweed, lie on beach
F - drive to Stornaway, ferry to Ullapool, drive to Pitlochry
S - drive to Bristol
S - TCA for couple of hours in morning, new blue (6B+ to 7B) circuit up, did a bunch of the easier ones and a couple of things around the 7A mark.

Pretty pleased with last fortnight - good to get Tombstone done before I went to Scotland, and good week away - the hiking and shovelling probably construed some sort of cross training I'm sure...

70kg still. hmph.

[krymson]

I had an impingement problem that took me out of climbing for 4-5 months in 2011. So, yeah, I have absorbed plenty of theory and practise on shoulder rehab/ re-injury prevention. FWIW my injury guru is sceptical about the classic rotator cuff exercises, suggests more attention to scapula stability.

well if you or your injury guru is interested in wacky shoulder exercises i know one as well

Recently been pursuing one arm lockoffs and discovered that one arm hanging off a good jug or pull up bar seems to be an effective, sports specific exercise for shoulder stabiliity

Even just hanging from one arm is harder than you would think actually, and if you engage the shoulder like you should, pretty heavily recruits the shoulder for stability.

Besides the usual rehab execises I train the shoulder quite heavily using traditional weight exercises - military press with dumbells(more stability), side raises and rear deltoid rows.

It is one of the few muscles you can really go all out and come out on top all around- they dont weigh enough that "bulky" shoulders would weigh you down, and strong shoulders aren't only healthier, they also will help you do some moves and ladies love em.

[tomtom]

2013 totals:
Outdoor: 39   
Indoor:1 
Training 6

Ach - work has been really busy the last two weeks, so again this is two weeks worth in one post. Sorry Power Club

So, two weeks ago on Tuesday - Caley - with RobL and the Hull gents.. I really ought to love Caley, but I've just never managed to get into it.. Maybe its because its 'in' for a shorter period of the year than the Cliff - but it is a great crag and I really should go there more often. Ron had his sights firmly set on Scary Canary - the high 7B+ on the big block next to the track (the Pinch block) and I was keen to session this - as really it should be right up my street (lank).. But it is surprisingly powerful - and theres an undercut work your feet up move in the middle that I found really hard - and I found a Tom way of doing it with different smears just as I ran out of energy.. However, I did manage to do the Pinch!! A nemesis dispatched - though instead of a nice high heel and rock over (I'm all arms and legs on that move!) I ended up just laying a big one on for the top - that landed with a very satisfying big slap noise. Technique nil, Tom one. As the eve wore on I/we wandered down to the Horn, and the LH was elusive - it started to get condensey under the trees... a good even though..

Thursday was back to the project in Cheshire - that went after a few go's and I would now settle on 7A for this I think.. - write up here http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,22212.0.html and video here:



Destroying the crimp on BabyBloc at Harmers was still weighing heavy on my conscience, and Rich Crouch and Andy Popp had both tried to do it without it - they felt it was possible with other mini crimps but they had no success. I was keen to try this with a low RH in a slot - and on Sunday it so so nearly went..



I can't really explain how hard this is - when I bring my LF up high, my arms and shoulders are in an arch, supporting most of my weight - with my LH on a small 2-3 finger crimp and RH in a narrow 3 finger slot. I have to hug the rock - cheek against the face to stop myself falling back. Once the foot is on, balance comes back in, then as I reach up - I can see on the video I look up, my head goes back and I peel off just as I get the hold. This video is really frustrating as I was so close (got this close 3 times) but just couldnt quite hold it in... It is the hardest single move I've ever (nearly!) done on a problem... ha! it looks like piss on the film!!

So now into this weeks power club....

Tuesday. Back to Harmers.. its really been too warm to work BabyBloc II any more, but on Tuesday evening, it was cooler and I headed up there about 5:30.... no joy. Not even close... I wasnt trusting my feet, and I think it needs a good cold day to make me think my feet are going to stick! I gave up after an hour or so when I (just) split my left tip on the tiny crimps.. time to go home...

The weather since tuesday was rubbish.. sunshine and showers - and on Friday I hopefully bobbed back to Harmers, but it was wet - so I now need some warm dry weather do dry it out! then some cold dry weather to make it climbable. And its May... oh well.. So on Saturday morning I headed out early to Holmfirth - to meet up with Grubes and James.. it was damp (in the air) but dry - and we got an hour or so in before the rain came.. My target was a 7A up left of Holmeward bound - a really nice crimpy step up - and it went 5th or 6th go..

So a pretty good couple of weeks - and despite the shitty sunshine and showers weather I've managed to avoid going to the wall \o/ Just waiting for a cool dry spell now

[webbo]

Mon. Board first thing 17 x 3. Bike 60.53 miles 3hrs 20mins.
Tue. Spend all evening fannying around with headset on bike.
Wed. Bike 1hr 20secs on 40 secs off x5 3 sets.
Thu. Board did 2 projects from last week but couldn't repeat last weeks problem.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Wall as I needed to my bike in. Climbed ok 30+ problems including a couple of 6cs.
Sun. Bike 1hr51 mins 35.54 miles including 8 x 5 mins on 1 min off.

Docs on Wednesday chest clear and bloods fine. So he's not sure what's causing my cough.
Achilles still hurts at times.

[Luke Owens]

Monday - Rest

Tuesday - Went to Castle Inn to do some easy stuff with my Girlfriend. It was boiling hot and I warmed up on a F6b+ and she didn't want to climb. Looked at the short 7a there and the 7b+, they look completely uninspiring. Already done all the classics here so just chilled instead.

Wednesday - Hope Mountain - Did some repeats up to V4 and sent some eliminate V5. Also worked on a V7, very subtle problem all in the feet. Need to work on core tension to stick a deadpoint move to a side pull. Bit warm for the sandstone too.

Thursday - Core for 45 minutes and Stretching

Friday - Devils Gorge - Got close on a V4 and sacked it off to save energy, Tried some V6 got close but the last move is nails.

Had a go on the lower crux of a steep hard 7b "Broccoli and Icecream". Not my style at all which is why I like it. Took a long time to work out the move but unlocked it eventually. Didn't have time to try the steep juggy top section as mate had some redpoints. Keen for it.

Also had a few goes on a V5 but was very tired.

Saturday - Family Holiday - Did a big core workout and stretching:

30 Crunches with legs up
15 Side rises each side
20 Aqua Man's
Front Plank with alternate leg raises for 1 minute
Side Plank both sides for 1 minute each
30 Bridges with alternate leg raise
--Rest--
20 Leg raises
Side Plank both sides for 1 minute each
Dish for 1 minute
40 Russian Twists
15 Side rises each side
20 Aqua Man's
--Rest--
30 Aqua Man's
30 Bridges with alternate leg raise
Dish for 1 minute
30 Aqua Man's
30 Bridges with alternate leg raise
Dish for 1 minute

Sunday - Repeated yesterday core workout and did some stretching/yoga (Nails).