[grr666]

Hi all. My name is Garry and have just started indoor bouldering and have
recently joined TCA Bristol. I hit the ripe old age of 40 just over a week ago
and gave up smoking cold turkey after a 26 year habit just under two months
ago. The quitting smoking did bring on a little weight gain and I was looking for
a way to keep trim and nurture my new healthy outlook on life.

I went bouldering with a friend as a guest and loved every minute. Paid for
a years membership on my way out of the centre and booked a place on the
next induction. When I got home I ordered some shoes and a chalk bag and
have been every 3-4 days since. I need to know some basic at home exercises,
to improve my bouldering performance, I already do a lot of press ups
(I've been using them to control nicotine cravings) Each time I want to smoke
3-5 times a day I do a set of 30 press ups. But I was thinking maybe getting a
pull up bar may be a better way of improving my bouldering strength.
And today I started crunches to attempt to de flab and strengthen my core a bit.
I'm not after instant results and am in reasonable shape for my age.
5'11 in height and 13stone 3lbs  but I realise that in order to get better at the
climbing I need to strip a bit of weight whilst gaining some strength. 
I have overhauled my diet and am eating a lot of whole grain cereal, and get a good
protein based meal most evenings with a raised amount of varied veg.
Oh and I plan to attend the fortnightly improvers session for some on the wall
coaching and advice.

Any more tips would be great.

Thanks in advance     
 

[shark]

Hi Garry

Pull up bar would be very useful. Even better if you can can do some hangs on an edge as well and work towards pull ups on an edge.

For core I would avoid crunches as they are developing the wrong type of core strength and can be bad for your back amongst other things. L hangs and similar off the pull up bar and various floor exrcises - personal favourite are dishes.

Stay keen.

]

[psychomansam]

Sounds great and glad you're enjoying yourself. You're already going a couple of times a week, and as a novice (and not a wee young'un) I'd say that's probably a good place to keep yourself at for now. The main roadblock to development will be injuries, so use the advantage of not having any and get a headstart on them. You enjoy bouldering and it's doing you good, so rather than worrying about getting strong quickly, think about the long game.

Use this time to really work on your technique and footwork. I'm sure the improver sessions will be helpful. Think about climbing with totally silent feet. Easier than it sounds, but precision is key. Place your foot exactly where you want it first time, every time.

Warm up well - it can take up to an hour to get everything warmed up and working properly. Start easy and use the first part of your sessions to just focus on technique and footwork.

Use a variety of holds - small finger holds, slopey holds and large ones(jugs). Climb at a variety of angles, but stick to feet-on climbing - don't act like a superhero and you're less likely to get injured. Use slabs to nail precise footwork and work on your balance, control and precision.

Lose weight. Climbing is about strength to weight ratio. Trying to get stronger is all very well but it increases your chance of injury. Losing weight has exactly the same effect but reduces your chance of injury.

Keep doing those press-ups. They help reduce the shoulder imbalance frequent in climbers, which often leads to injury. When you do press-ups, go slower as you lower down, engaging the supporting muscles in the shoulders.

Maybe find someone to get on routes with. It's less physically intensive in some ways and give your body a bit more variety.

Do some core strength training. It will help make sure your whole body is doing it's bit, and can help prevent other injuries such as back problems caused by overdeveloped upper back vs. underdeveloped lower back. 

Don't climb on consecutive days. Don't climb when you're hungover/tired and aching. Listen to your body. What is it telling you?

Finally, if you really must do pull-ups (at this very early stage), get a fingerboard and practice dead hangs and a few pull-ups on some smaller holds. Far more relevant to climbing and the smaller holds will limit the amount of pulling you're dong. You can start off by doing it 'feet-on'. They can be resting on a chair for instance.

Have fun. Listen to your body. Avoid injury.

[grr666]

Wow, thanks for the replies guys.
When you say lose weight what is the optimum weight I am aiming for?
I should explain that I am fairly well muscled with little body fat just quite
densely built. I do a manual job, so get a fair bit of excercise in my normal
days work (Building and renovations multi trades). I don't drink alcohol and
haven't since age 19. I am a size 32 in jeans, What I do have is around my middle
and a lot of that has appeared in a short time since quitting the fags.
This time last year (when I was still smoking) I was just over 12 stone. I have
good arms (so my wife says) which are also disproportionately long for my body
(so every shirt I buy says)  Strong well defined legs (I used to cycle a long time ago but
kept most of the muscle tone and size) I'd say maybe a stone of what's on me is fat
and the rest isn't. Without bragging I look the part more than a fair few of the guys
that are also noobs at the club. I've just gone a bit soft in the middle since saying goodbye
to the tobacco. The bouldering is to stop me saying 'sod it' and picking up on the fags again.
I quit for my wife who has never smoked and in memory and honor of her mum who
we lost to cancer last year aged just 51. The guy who did my induction said I looked very
strong (older chap (mid 50's?) named Dave who rode a motorbike and had a superb
physique for his age) and should progress quickly. I took this as a massive compliment.
I must say that some of the shirtless guys down there doing the biz on the starship? wall
looked like they had been hewn from stone. I'd love that sort of definition.
     
 

[Nibile]

Ciao Garry!
Best wishes for your climbing! I second what the others said, with only one minor thing: never mind the ripped guys doing big numers, because you probably don't know enough about them to give them the right to be in your mind (mostly in terms of how hard they train, their life habits, sacrifices, etc).
Enjoy climbing, meet people, go out. If you stick at it, you'll get better and your phisique will follow!
Congratulations for your non smoking commitment.

[andybfreeman]

Enjoy climbing, meet people, go out. If you stick at it, you'll get better and your phisique will follow!
Congratulations for your non smoking commitment.

 

[SA Chris]

Well at to I guess you are younger than about 1/3 of the people on here!
Sounds like you are doing all the right things! Doing a manual job and climbing will keep you strong, but is not likely to cut into that spare tyre. Probably a good idea to dust off the bike again or start doing some running for that. Will probably do your respiratory system some favours too, get the old lungs working hard again.

[crimp]

Ah. Hi Garry.

You're bristol based?

Want a free new door frame fitting pull up bar?

See me.

Ps. If yer bris based, and want someone to show you the traditional bouldering areas of Avon gorge, can do that. Hell, I'll even show you Gollums if you bring holy water and crucifixes.

[crimp]

Garry

you're probably fully conversant with forums, but just in case thought it worth mentioning.

If you want to take me up on the above, or want to pass any kind of personal info onto users, phone numbers, addresses, hook ups, etc,

click on the speech bubble below the users name on thread, and send them a personal message. Don't use the open forum.

[crimp]

One more thing.

Mix things up by going to other local walls.

Undercover Rock - St Werbughs
Redpoint - Bedminster (opening late May)
Warehouse - Gloucester (only half hour drive)

all the details are in the wiki/bristol section (see main dropdown menus)

i think its worth saying visit different venues. If you go to the same place few times a week you can become jaded in my experience.

Try and mix it up with some outdoor visits.

Keep it fresh and it'll keep you keen.

[mrjonathanr]

 
What they said.... you're in the enviable position that most everything you do now will bring some form of improvement. I'd echop psychomansam, take care of your body and avoid injuries, they are the biggest brake on improvement. That means looking after fingers, abandoning a problem if it causes pain in them, resting sufficiently between goes and sessions. Have fun.

[grr666]

Ah. Hi Garry.
You're bristol based?

Hi Adge, Thanks for all your replies.
Yes I am based in Bristol. About halfway between Bristol and Bath.
It's fair to say I'm absolutely loving the climbing, I'm a little nervous about doing
it on real rocks though. Thank you very much for your offer of the pull up bar.
If it's one that screws into place then I'd have to decline your kind offer.
I'm preparing my house for sale and Mrs Grr would be unwilling to allow me to fix
anything permanent to the house as we are about to start on viewings any day now.
However if it's one of the ones that stays in place via leverage then I'd love it thank you.
If you PM some details then I would happily meet you somewhere. I'm my own boss
so whenever suits you will be great.  BTW I am pretty forum savvy, been a daily poster
on the Skoda forum Briskoda since 2008. Don't even drive one any more but still go in
there every day and annoy them. 

Thanks also to the rest of you for your valuable responses.
I'll find some time to do some dish-ing today, although the wife is off work today and it's
sunny so may find other ways to burn calories and tone up

In all seriousness, for me the biggest issues are...
1. Wrist strength, (Have always had thin wrists my entire life)
2. Grip strength. (Those bigger holds are easy enough but the fingertip ones are challenging)
3. Core strength. ( I'm definitely not using my body to help me climb yet, at the moment
it's the load I am heaving up with my arms. )
4. Not using my legs enough.

I think mostly my issues are technique based, but any extra training I can do at home
in between climbs is all for the greater good.
I will give dusting off my pushbike some thought as well.   

[crimp]

Ah. Hi Garry.
You're bristol based?

Hi Adge, Thanks for all your replies.
Yes I am based in Bristol. About halfway between Bristol and Bath.
It's fair to say I'm absolutely loving the climbing, I'm a little nervous about doing
it on real rocks though. Thank you very much for your offer of the pull up bar.
If it's one that screws into place then I'd have to decline your kind offer.
I'm preparing my house for sale and Mrs Grr would be unwilling to allow me to fix
anything permanent to the house as we are about to start on viewings any day now.
However if it's one of the ones that stays in place via leverage then I'd love it thank you.
If you PM some details then I would happily meet you somewhere. I'm my own boss
so whenever suits you will be great.  BTW I am pretty forum savvy, been a daily poster
on the Skoda forum Briskoda since 2008. Don't even drive one any more but still go in
there every day and annoy them. 

Thanks also to the rest of you for your valuable responses.
I'll find some time to do some dish-ing today, although the wife is off work today and it's
sunny so may find other ways to burn calories and tone up

In all seriousness, for me the biggest issues are...
1. Wrist strength, (Have always had thin wrists my entire life)
2. Grip strength. (Those bigger holds are easy enough but the fingertip ones are challenging)
3. Core strength. ( I'm definitely not using my body to help me climb yet, at the moment
it's the load I am heaving up with my arms. )
4. Not using my legs enough.

I think mostly my issues are technique based, but any extra training I can do at home
in between climbs is all for the greater good.
I will give dusting off my pushbike some thought as well.

chin up bar does have frame cups, but screws are quite small

Real rock ain't scary, it's the real thing. Happy to show you the Avon venues.

If you want a real long term goal, I'll show you the prince. Way too hard for me. I ain't chiselled from stone. More like thrown together curry, held together by cider.

[crimp]

Sorry. Should have asked what makes you nervous about trying real rock?

If it's performance anxiety, don't worry about it. People boulder and climb at all grades. People ain't going to mock you whatever grade you're at. And if they do, they're wankers you don't want to know anyway.

If you're worried about decking out. Don't be. There's plenty of lowball stuff. You choose your own risks. I don't mind setting up a top rope for you on problems, and belaying you to build your confidence. I have kit.

Can't think any other reasons you'd be nervous about trying real rock. If there are, sure we can get round them.

[grr666]

Mostly its based on fear of caving my own head in on a rock
after falling off due to my lack of technique and ability.
As I improve no doubt this fear will lessen and I will be looking to
get out there and do it for real. I've seen some lovely spots on my travels
down by the Portway that seem popular with the climbing set. But I feel my
grip is such a weak area at the moment that I'm dead concerned it's going
to get me deaded. Working at improving on the wall at TCA gives me a nice
controlled environment to work on my weak areas before I take it outside.

I'm heading down to TCA a bit later, my wifes youngest brother (11) wants
to come along and he has a inset day today so he'll only be at home on his
xbox if someone doesn't get him up and doing something. Don't know how
much climbing I'll get done, he can be a bit of a handful.       

[slackline]

That is almost definitely a reason to get out on rock sooner rather than later.

Staying indoors & doing weights etc. you won't learn how to climb on real rock and all the subtleties.  Don't expect to be able to bust out of the gym and be able to climb the same grade as you do indoors.  Take your time and learn how to climb rock, working your way up through the grades, this will help improve your confidence too.

If you're concerned about injuring yourself get a pad, and find someone to climb with who can spot you whilst bouldering.  Not many people would advocate it, and far less do it, but if you're really worried about cracking your head open helmets are an option.

[crimp]

Mostly its based on fear of caving my own head in on a rock
after falling off due to my lack of technique and ability.
As I improve no doubt this fear will lessen and I will be looking to
get out there and do it for real. I've seen some lovely spots on my travels
down by the Portway that seem popular with the climbing set. But I feel my
grip is such a weak area at the moment that I'm dead concerned it's going
to get me deaded. Working at improving on the wall at TCA gives me a nice
controlled environment to work on my weak areas before I take it outside.

I'm heading down to TCA a bit later, my wifes youngest brother (11) wants
to come along and he has a inset day today so he'll only be at home on his
xbox if someone doesn't get him up and doing something. Don't know how
much climbing I'll get done, he can be a bit of a handful.     

well. If you are free this afternoon, i will be going for a bimble in the gorge, before the rain returns tomorrow. You're welcome to meet up, have a look about, try real rock. I can bring a top rope to protect you if you're worried. And lend you a lid. Start on some low really easy angle stuff. Or i can just give you a tour round the areas.

Leave the handful kid at home mind.

Pm me if you want.

[Ti_pin_man]

grr666 - welcome onboard.

I'm marginly ahead of you by the sounds of it, I started climbing once a week a year or so ago and then decided I'd try harder about 7 months back and began going 2 or 3 times a week.  I'm 44 and about the same build 5'11 and 32 inch waist.  I'm not a flabby, most of my weight is from years on the push bike, but the muscle is all in the wrong place, lol.  We could be distant twins!

I now climb 3 times a week and been more focused doing that especially in the last 3 months.  I've begun to train my weakness - finger strength and core strength - I had my climbing assesed by a coach recently. 

He steered me to initially do sets of 4 finger dead hangs - be careful on these and dont over do them was what I was told - 3 times a week.  I also have instruction to do leg pull ups to strenthen my core and general pull ups.

Progress is slow and all the instructors I talk to say that as you get older it takes more effort to get better but last week I watched a 60+ fella spank the kids asses at a climbing comp, so theres hope

I'd also echo using different walls occasionally, route setters vary immensly and its good fun to try new stuff and mix it up. 

I'd also agree getting onto real rock is intimidating initially but find some friendly souls who can show you and do it. 

I think the advice on this thread echo's what I've heard, what I've read and what the coach said.  The one thing I keep telling myself is not to chase grades, use them as a guide only, and importantly enjoy the journey.

Enjoy.

[frankstoneline]

For your wrist strength concern, get a bit of cord (parachute cord or something similar) and a round dowel (couple bucks at the hardware store). Drill a hole in the dowel and tie the length of cord through it, then tie a small weight to the other end. Hold the thing out in front of you and roll the cord up, then unroll it in controlled fashion. I had somewhat injury prone wrists for some time and this seemed to help with their strength/stability.

[grr666]

For your wrist strength concern, get a bit of cord (parachute cord or something similar) and a round dowel (couple bucks at the hardware store). Drill a hole in the dowel and tie the length of cord through it, then tie a small weight to the other end. Hold the thing out in front of you and roll the cord up, then unroll it in controlled fashion. I had somewhat injury prone wrists for some time and this seemed to help with their strength/stability.

I've seen something like this for sale somewhere, but I can easily whip
something up that's similar being a builder for a living. Thanks for the tip. 

[Nibile]

There are also two threads on here that could help: Power Club and Training Videos. You could get a general idea of what others do and steal some routines.

[grr666]

Thanks again for the helpful input guys.
Thanks in particular to Adge who I met today in person.
He showed me a number of lovely bouldering spots in and around the
Avon gorge where I can really put myself to the test.

The weather wasn't really ideal so we didn't get tons of climbing done
but I learned a few good areas to practice where it won't cost me a fiver
to have a little climb. I must admit, it's a completely different experience
doing it on real rocks. It's harder to figure out where your holds are when
they aren't made of brightly coloured plastic. It certainly requires a lot more
thought and planning. It was made less harrowing by being attached to a rope
particularly as there was quite a tumble to the bottom where we were.

Again, thanks so much for making my first try out on the rocks a fun experience.
I'll have you over for a good feed soon to say thanks. I'm a good cook so you'll be well
looked after, and you can meet Mrs grr.
Cheers mate, was a pleasure making your acquaintance.

[crimp]

Thanks again for the helpful input guys.
Thanks in particular to Adge who I met today in person.
He showed me a number of lovely bouldering spots in and around the
Avon gorge where I can really put myself to the test.

The weather wasn't really ideal so we didn't get tons of climbing done
but I learned a few good areas to practice where it won't cost me a fiver
to have a little climb. I must admit, it's a completely different experience
doing it on real rocks. It's harder to figure out where your holds are when
they aren't made of brightly coloured plastic. It certainly requires a lot more
thought and planning. It was made less harrowing by being attached to a rope
particularly as there was quite a tumble to the bottom where we were.

Again, thanks so much for making my first try out on the rocks a fun experience.
I'll have you over for a good feed soon to say thanks. I'm a good cook so you'll be well
looked after, and you can meet Mrs grr.
Cheers mate, was a pleasure making your acquaintance.

I have PMed you regarding another venue closer to you, which i meant to tell you about, but forgot. There is a link included to details in the wiki, but happy to show you it, spot you on a visit, etc.

Glad you enjoyed it, i did too. Happy to go again any time.

Main thing is, you're now confident enough to go for sessions yourself anytime now. Most important, be aware of what's below you in the way of safe landings, and in the gorge be aware of what's going on above you. Stay in your comfort zone, take it easy, and enjoy it.

Ps. The first perfect well hidden 6m bit overhanging wall we climbed on. Keep it to yourself. I think that's 4 of us use it now. I would hate for it to end up like gollums. If you visit that hole, you'll know what i mean.

[grr666]

Glad you enjoyed it, i did too. Happy to go again any time.

Main thing is, you're now confident enough to go for sessions yourself anytime now. Most important, be aware of what's below you in the way of safe landings, and in the gorge be aware of what's going on above you. Stay in your comfort zone, take it easy, and enjoy it.

Ps. The first perfect well hidden 6m bit overhanging wall we climbed on. Keep it to yourself. I think that's 4 of us use it now. I would hate for it to end up like gollums. If you visit that hole, you'll know what i mean.

Mums the word  on the first place we stopped. I'll get back to you on the
forest of dean outing. But I am up for it. Just need good weather and the
right opportunity around work. Oh well, back to my tiling...

[Jaspersharpe]

Great stuff Adge and welcome to the best game in the world grr666.

[crimp]

Glad you enjoyed it, i did too. Happy to go again any time.

Main thing is, you're now confident enough to go for sessions yourself anytime now. Most important, be aware of what's below you in the way of safe landings, and in the gorge be aware of what's going on above you. Stay in your comfort zone, take it easy, and enjoy it.

Ps. The first perfect well hidden 6m bit overhanging wall we climbed on. Keep it to yourself. I think that's 4 of us use it now. I would hate for it to end up like gollums. If you visit that hole, you'll know what i mean.

Mums the word  on the first place we stopped. I'll get back to you on the
forest of dean outing. But I am up for it. Just need good weather and the
right opportunity around work. Oh well, back to my tiling...

good good.

I am sure you agree it's a lovely wee bouldering venue. If anyone asks about it
 

[crimp]

Overdid it at the gym (TCA) today and have hurt my left thumb.
At least I got a bit done that I struggled with last time but am out of action
until my thumb feels better.
 

Hi Grr.

You know the easy angled slabs by the bog wall. They're good for keeping your eye in, practicing good footwork skills without putting too much strain on your thumb. Use big handholds and work on your feet.

When healed hit me up, we'll get over forest and down Brean.

Have you been outdoors again? Or had a look at ring road boulders yet?

[rodma]

One piece of advice for our strong noob would be to take it slow and steady with the fingery stuff. You'll probably already have a cast iron grip from building and will quickly adapt to small edges, but the fingers take a long time and are very slow to heal if injured. So if you find your getting better and better on the little edges from one session to the next, make sure and throw some easy sessions into the mix, before it becomes a necessity to have an easy session.

Oh, and be particularly careful on low gravity days, best to cut those sessions short too for the same reasons

Oh, and welcome

[Sasquatch]

One piece of advice for our strong noob would be to take it slow and steady with the fingery stuff. You'll probably already have a cast iron grip from building and will quickly adapt to small edges, but the fingers take a long time and are very slow to heal if injured.

And back on topic, Adge did the best possible thing in taking you outside.  You can learn some level of footwork and technique at the wall, but no indoor walls really simulate the level of technique that goes along with outside climbing.  The best early advice I ever got when I was learning to climb was to find a slab route or boulder problem that you can climb quite easily using your hands and feet, then try climbing it without pulling with your arms(pressing down only), then try climbing it using only your hands on the wall for balance, then work up to no hands at all.  This may take quite some time, but you'll really learn how to weight your feet and how to smoothly transfer balance between your feet as you move up. 

[Bonjoy]

I've split off the 'debate' about piss taking as it was off topic and best treated as a seperate thread.