[Duma]

Bit early this, but I'm busy tomorrow and much of next week so thought I'd get in now:

S/MTG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M -
T -
W - Cheddar with Luke and Tom for another go at tombstone - rubbish. Spent pretty much whole session just to get back to where I was a week ago. Did a decent link from a few moves in to the top though - was good to do the last few moves tired.
T - Quick hour on the mothership at TCA before evening shift - meh. Also sore throat, so maybe I've got an excuse for the previous days poor performance
F - still vaguely sore throat, glands up.
S - throat still not better, but fuck it: TCA afternoon - more mothership stuff - managed a couple more things in the 7B/+ bracket so happy enough with that.
S -

70kg poor effort on weight front, need to run (and drink less beer/eat less crap)

[csl]

April Goals
At least 20 sessions climbing 14/20
Rehab finger - some massaging and ice
7b indoors - done
Get outside twice 1/2 - will be out on tuesday
Run 17.50 Parkrun - not done

Mon - Feet on Campus
Tue- Run 8.5 km slow
Wed- 3x12 min recovery intervals
Thu- nothing
Friday - Great session at the Pinnacle, Routes, including a 7b on the main wall. And boulders, managed to o/s everything i tried up to V4 and do most v5's and one v6 second go. Steep problems through the roof felt good, so power endurance is ok. Tho one v5 evaded me cos i was knackered and fell from the last move.
Saturday- Parkrun 12th in 18.14 - my last chance at 17.50 goal, not enough running recently to be possible. Still happy with that pace not feeling too bad.
Sunday- Going to go to the wall later and climb circuits and do some ARC.

Up north on the lime all this week then off to Ceuse, can't wait!

[tomtom]

Nice one starting the thread Duma.

I'm glum so this will be a short post...

2013 totals:
Outdoor: 34   
Indoor:1 
Training 6

Tuesday - Almscliff \o/ with Rob, Rob and Hose... usual suspects problem wise, felt really knackered afterwards. The Cliff - it keeps on giving...

Thursday - Harmers. Was really psyched to get Babybloc repeated. I liked it so much on Sunday (bad finger day) that I wanted to do it again Really good warm ups - feeling great - but just couldnt get in balance on BB - lots of attempts, tried different ways but gave up when a rain shower came in..

Saturday - new craglet day! working a really nice line on this little overhang that came to our attention..  sadly stuff under the main roof is all cheese... this lip problem is just waiting for me to have enough balls to do the final rockover/mantle thing for the slopey scrittly top!



Sunday - I just wanted to get out - and the rain forecast didnt come - so went back to Harmers.. this time I did Babybloc twice - in a row. So chuffed! But on the second time broke a key hold. Gutted. see:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,22182.msg405464.html#msg405464
Thinking about it, theres a chance it may still be climbable (with a low RH) but what was a beautiful move is no longer

[davej]

nice looking problem

[Dolly]

M Lunchtime sess at The Foundry. Thought I'd just traverse a bit as I ached a bit from Sunday.  Ended up having a good sess with Neil
T Loads of work, not back till late
W Another good sess with Neil. Lot longer than usual as there was a power outage @ work
T Shed with Norton. Thought it would be rubbish as I was tired fom Wednesday but was pretty good in fact.
F
S
S Was aiming to go out for a late sess but then a) I hit my finger with a hammer repaiting a compost bin and b) it started raining so had a good hour of power in the shed. I know I've said it before on power club but I properly love my shed.

[tomtom]

[fried]

Monday - Still either have a bit of a chesty cough of I've delevoped an alergy to pollen, but I wheeze my way through a BM session which was pretty unhardhore.
Tuesday - indoor. Nothing of interest to report.
Wednesday - cough turns into a sneezy cold
Thursday - and then into a blocked up nose.
Friday - etc, etc.
Saturday - Weekend's weather is looking unpredictable and I opt to do some housework/ chores and leave the forest for tomorrow.
Sunday - Sad to say that it's still looking unpredictable and what with the amont of holiday traffic and the lamentable state of the A6 I decide to go indoors, all I wanted to do was run a nice easy circuit, but I was too traumatised from last week.

[cheque]

M- Rest
T- Some core. 2 hours in moshpit at Public Enemy gig. 
W- Some more core. Skipping.
T- Yet more core and skipping.
F- Rest.
S- Walk in Chilterns. 4 miles or so.
S- Some core. Powerball.

Didn't climb at all this week- what I desperately need to do, mileage on lead with uneventful falls and no "take"s, wasn't an option as no belayers were about so I decided to rest my dodgy fingers and recently-sprained wrist. Both are feeling better now. Hopefully get on a rope this week...

[Dolly]

Pls can you PM me the image for my new avatar ? AM on ipad so cant download it

[nai]

Physio on Monday confirmed scar tissue abounds, new set of exercises for elbow and shoulder plus icing and also advised some gentle trad/easy stuff
1km swim on Tue

Taking the opportunity to get a garage wall sorted while injured and psyche is in the gutter, been slow progress and currently on about plan K but it should come together this week hopefully (but then again on Thursday morning I was sure it would be done by Friday lunchtime) then back to some exercise.

[Muenchener]

STG: Redpoint 7a (most likely indoors). Anything from this list of Frankenjura classics
MTG (2013): Frankenjura VII onsight; Alpine multipitch VI; Welsh trad E2
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:
T: Wall, Gilching. Routes 5b 6b 6a+ 6b+ 6b 6c+ (the latter a project with molto rests, but did all the moves first go)
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes 5b 6a 6a 5b 6b 6b+ 6b 6a 6b 6b. Did falling practice as part of the warm up, which however did not result in an evening of fearless bliss.
T:
F: Bike to work ca 22km
S: Set out to go sport climbing at Kochel, had to abort due to holed exhaust. nnfn. Too dejected after expensive garage visit to go to wall instead.
   Alpine approach training: 30 mins step-ups w/14kg rucksack. Frustration vented.
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. Started working a new 7a circuit project then feet-on campusing. Tried three blocks of 4 x 1 minute on, 1 minute óff with 10 minutes rest between blocks. Didn't quite finish one set in the last block (oddly the second set not the last). STG 1: complete all sets. STG 2: complete all sets without resorting to 3-finger open-handing.
   Bike to & from wall 10km

Frustrated. I have been training diligently and trying harder things, but it has not yet led to actual succcess on anything of note, or even to subjectively feeling stronger. But if I keep the faith it will.

[tommytwotone]

LTG: Font 7b

M: Nowt
T: Evening session plans canned as I went and picked up a wardrobe
W: Nowt
T: Depot session doing easy stuff, had a word with the resident physio as well
F: Post work Caley session, nothing major ticked but great to be out
S: Nowt
S: Met andyd at a damp Ilkley not feeling too optimistic. Scratched around climbing what was dry / sheltered and ended up pulling an ascent of Bodyrocker out of pretty much nowhere

[tomtom]

Pls can you PM me the image for my new avatar ? AM on ipad so cant download it

Just had a look and I cant send images as a DM...

But its easy to find.. I googled "i love my shed" and it popped up on the first page

[davej]

For all you lovers of sheds check this fine tune out http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=sPwnkR-LeoE&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DsPwnkR-LeoE I also drive one!

[erm, sam]

Anything from this list of Frankenjura classics

Does that link work? Can't see any list. And  you are right, keep the faith.

[Dolly]

Pls can you PM me the image for my new avatar ? AM on ipad so cant download it

Just had a look and I cant send images as a DM...

But its easy to find.. I googled "i love my shed" and it popped up on the first page

Cheers got it now

[kelvin]

Year's Goals -

Boulder V4 - Fake tick IMO. Really Cool Toys SDS (supposed to be 7A).

Trad E1 - got sidetracked on Saturday.

Lead 6b and get on a 7a - Feels like indoor 6b will go soon.

Mon- Pinnacle. PE on TRope. Mostly 6b, 6b+, 6c. Rarely made top, but serious pump. Fingers 6 sets of 10 x 7/3.
Tue- Pinnacle. Led 5 clean, 6a with rest (steepening on comp wall). Then TR 6b+ x4, 6b x1, seconded 6b on comp wall plus a load of easier stuff. Top session.
Wed- Pinnacle. Knackered. TR two routes then belayed for a while, Boulder room to work the fingery V3. Made progress due to better feet.
Thu- Rest. Core, arms, finger, legs all aching. Get in!
Fri- Drive to Wales for new members meet.
Sat- Creagh Dhu Wall HS 4b, Oberon S at Tremadog.
Sun- Llanberis waiting for the rain to stop. it didn't. Lot's of coffee.

Good week. By Wed eve, I was empty. Couldn't have tried harder, probably never have except during the last 20 miles of last years ultra. One more TR on the fingery 6b and it will be time to lead it, the PE stuff is coming together after two weeks. Happy.

NLMC new member meet. Disappointed to not come away with a grade improvement as was well psyched but happy with the Classic Rock tick and the finger traverse was a joy. Ace route, up there with Main Wall at Cyrn Las and it got Yvonne's head back into a good place with regard to leading. Almost seconded Extraction with Dale and Hugh but Yvonne wanted another route, it was late, so we quickly dashed up Oberon which happens to be the first ever climb I went on. The chockstone still felt thrutchy. Breezed the leading on Saturday, my head's in a good place with winter at the sharp end, that seems to have transferred to trad but sport... need to sort.

Frustrated. I have been training diligently and trying harder things, but it has not yet led to actual succcess on anything of note, or even to subjectively feeling stronger. But if I keep the faith it will.

The diligence will pay off, always does, just stick with it.

[erm, sam]

Does that link work?

Ah, tis a pdf.

[Luke Owens]

Bit of a "rest" week for me, done a lot less than usual due to feeling burnt out last week. Still feel tired though...

STG - F7b+, Font 7A+
MTG - F7c and Font 7B (End of 2013)
LTG - F8a and Font 7B+ (Next few years)

Monday - Rest

Tuesday - Rest

Wednesday - Dinbren - So psyched to be back at my local crag, suites my style of climbing down to the ground. Got the clips in on Walking With Barrance (7b) and warmed up working the moves. Managed every move pretty much first go in isolation.

Only been on it briefly 8 months ago so couldn't remember much. Did some good links from the ground to a pumpy rest about 5 meters up then rested on the rope then from there to the final throw/deadpoint at the top.

Need to get fitter for it but I'm going to stick at it and start the redpoints next session (this week). It's a really good three star route.

Thursday - Fingerboard ARC-  30 minutes.

Friday - Rest

Saturday - Rest (Had planned to go out but plans changed)

Sunday - Pen Trwyn - First foray on Mayfair wall, oh my life the routes are awesome! So psyched for everything on it.

Had a flash attempt on Contusion (6c), managed the awkward move to clip the bolt on the first bulge but pumped out trying to figure out a sequence through it. My mate is useless at sharing beta to which his advice was "I have no idea what I did, there's a good hold somewhere"!?

After pulling back on I managed to flash the rest to the chains, Argh! Should be a quick tick next time.

Got on Axle Attack (7a+) - Worked up it on lead. Tricky awkward start but the climbing on the upper wall is fantastic. Hard crux move to a mono. A lot to remember beta wise. Going to need some fitness for it!

Came down in view of having a good rest and working it some more but it rained...

Went to see some friends in Split Infinity cave, pumped out on the last move of a V3 trav 3 times, I'm fed up of getting pumped all the time!

Also had some feedback about the new 7b route I put up at Denbigh. Two 8a+ beast's were on it yesterday and I spoke to one of them who said it was a great route and a solid 7b - Psyched!

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals as ever.

M: Rest.
T: Works - Boulder and AeroCap (hardish - whites and blues).
W: Rest.
T: Works - Boulder and PE (bouldering was hard again, PE was shit!).
F: Rest.
S: Dovedale - Did a 6b+ a couple of times to warmup then got on Arch Enemies - what a route!!! To good goes before body said: "go get fucked - you unfit, fat bastard!" Did all the moves though. Was a bit too cold on the rock really.
S: Rest.

1 day on 1 day off week - dunno if it's a good idea. Just trying to ease elbow and finger tweaks while maintaining a decent level of intensity. Nothing hurts today so can't be bad. What a route Arch Enemies is.. Uber psyched to get back on it when it's a little warmer as I couldn't feel my fingers by the time I got to the crux..

This week: Boulder, PE, AeroCap and go somewhere climbing for the Bank Holiday.

:D

[tomtom]

1 day on 1 day off week - dunno if it's a good idea. Just trying to ease elbow and finger tweaks while maintaining a decent level of intensity.

I find I tend to do smaller sessions if I'm doing more in a week.. my body seems to quite like 3 (or even 4) short 1 hour sessions a week at the moment.. I try and alternate between crimpy and juggy shouldery problems each time..

[leeroy]

What a route Arch Enemies is.. Uber psyched to get back on it when it's a little warmer as I couldn't feel my fingers by the time I got to the crux..

Was it fully dry? If so I have a plan for this evening! thanks.

[Fiend]

To good goes before body said: "go get fucked - you unfit, fat bastard!"

Your body is a moron, you skinny anorexic lanky cunt  You might not be routes fit tho who knows.

[Duncan Disorderly]

What a route Arch Enemies is.. Uber psyched to get back on it when it's a little warmer as I couldn't feel my fingers by the time I got to the crux..

Was it fully dry? If so I have a plan for this evening! thanks.

Fully dry it was! 

[Duncan Disorderly]

To good goes before body said: "go get fucked - you unfit, fat bastard!"

Your body is a moron, you skinny anorexic lanky cunt  You might not be routes fit tho who knows.

Fuck you tubby!  I'm not anything fit (apart from gin drinking - certianly can do that well!)