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South West (England) Bouldering (Read 165423 times)

turnipturned

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#375 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 02, 2016, 11:18:55 am
Nice video man.

Did either of you guys have a look at 'Path of Daggers', did I have my blinkers on? haha.


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#376 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 02, 2016, 03:28:18 pm
Dan, I had a quick play after AWOL, managed the move up to the crimp/pinch once, but skin was a bit knackered by then, and it's a pretty painful edge with thin tips! Seemed like a logical line to me. Did try and put right heel on a la AndyW but couldn't make it stick. You done Colorado Dreaming? Seemed nails, though I suppose I was a bit spent by then.

Grant, apologies for any insinuation, didn't think so. Didn't realise fishermen went down to those ledges, just a bit depressing when it's so pristine otherwise! Agree re the marine litter, but as you say, worth trying to raise awareness if it might be climbers.

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#377 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 02, 2016, 03:48:46 pm
Nice video man.

Did either of you guys have a look at 'Path of Daggers', did I have my blinkers on? haha.

Cheers Dan. The footage was from before your visit but think I will be back down there soon enough (I still want to do Colorado Dreaming) blinkers or not it looks cool.  It's a great block to session on steep, powerful, crimpy stuff and once you've done the main lines there are link ups galore!

Duma, could all be a bit more conscientious I guess and pick up after others as well as ourselves!  Found a load of fishing line and a pair of scissors down Lynmouth West recently..




turnipturned

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#378 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 02, 2016, 10:50:37 pm
Dan, I had a quick play after AWOL, managed the move up to the crimp/pinch once,

You done Colorado Dreaming? Seemed nails, though I suppose I was a bit spent by then.

Ah cool, yeah its pretty sharp, cool ah well maybe it will interest people.

I have done Colorado Dreaming, quite a while ago though (3/4years??). Newberry said it might have changed after the storms. I can't really remember much except the footholds where pretty hard to use.

Nice video man.

Duma, could all be a bit more conscientious I guess and pick up after others as well as ourselves!  Found a load of fishing line and a pair of scissors down Lynmouth West recently.

Fishermen are pretty bad for it, we went and fished near rumps and port Quin and all kind of shit was left (at least we knew there might be fish ha).

I recon I located a mega DWS location if anyone is interested!



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#379 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 02, 2016, 11:00:49 pm
I recon I located a mega DWS location if anyone is interested!

Yup!

turnipturned

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#380 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 02, 2016, 11:09:46 pm
I recon I located a mega DWS location if anyone is interested!

Yup!

Okay, as if you are going to Pentire, but once you pass the walk down to great wall, continue down the coast around around the bay. if you walk down to the right of rumps point, there is an little island super close (not the far away island with a flag on) with a gully between the island and main land. (maybe 5-10metres between). On the island there is a really steep face and I recon the gully is pretty deep water, seen it at low tide and could see the bottom.

If it is deep water that would be an ace place as you could sit on the main land and chill out between attempts.

Might go back end of summer if people are keen

Andy W

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#381 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 04, 2016, 08:48:33 am
Dan, I had a quick play after AWOL, managed the move up to the crimp/pinch once, but skin was a bit knackered by then, and it's a pretty painful edge with thin tips! Seemed like a logical line to me. Did try and put right heel on a la AndyW but couldn't make it stick. You done Colorado Dreaming? Seemed nails, though I suppose I was a bit spent by then.


Grant, apologies for any insinuation, didn't think so. Didn't realise fishermen went down to those ledges, just a bit depressing when it's so pristine otherwise! Agree re the marine litter, but as you say, worth trying to raise awareness if it might be climbers.

I remember now that I used my toe, not heel.

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#382 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 04, 2016, 08:54:10 am
Tintagel Bouldering = class venue, class problems and class location.



nice vid, made me miss Cornwall!

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#383 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 04, 2016, 10:40:23 am
Cheers Andy.  We will keep it safe for you.

Duma

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#384 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 08, 2016, 12:01:16 am
Jonny on the North Coast:


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#385 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 08, 2016, 07:53:37 am
Great videos, really want to go down there this summer and try the end is nigh  :2thumbsup:

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#386 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 08, 2016, 07:10:41 pm
Jonny crushes the North Coast :strongbench:

Great videos, really want to go down there this summer and try the end is nigh  :2thumbsup:

Bring plenty of pads...

Danny

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#387 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 19, 2016, 04:18:03 pm
This August I'll be making a move with the fam to Falmouth. Looking forward to a bit of SW climbing—some of it looks very good indeed.

Could anyone offer a bit of advice on my training options? Doesn't look like much in the way of decent walls nearby. Happy enough to build a woody if so.

remus

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#388 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 20, 2016, 12:36:00 pm
I recon I located a mega DWS location if anyone is interested!

Yup!

Okay, as if you are going to Pentire, but once you pass the walk down to great wall, continue down the coast around around the bay. if you walk down to the right of rumps point, there is an little island super close (not the far away island with a flag on) with a gully between the island and main land. (maybe 5-10metres between). On the island there is a really steep face and I recon the gully is pretty deep water, seen it at low tide and could see the bottom.

If it is deep water that would be an ace place as you could sit on the main land and chill out between attempts.

Might go back end of summer if people are keen

That sounds like it'd be worth a look. Is this the place d'you think? https://www.google.com/maps/place/50%C2%B035'40.5%22N+4%C2%B055'13.2%22W/@50.594573,-4.9211169,233m/data=!3m2!1e3!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x0!8m2!3d50.594573!4d-4.920348

Drop us a message on here if you do fancy checking it out, I'd be keen to have a look.

BrutusTheBear

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#389 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 20, 2016, 02:20:02 pm
This August I'll be making a move with the fam to Falmouth. Looking forward to a bit of SW climbing—some of it looks very good indeed.

Could anyone offer a bit of advice on my training options? Doesn't look like much in the way of decent walls nearby. Happy enough to build a woody if so.
With the recent demise of Magic Wood in Liskaerd, your nearest options would be The Barn just over the Tamar back into Devon or Pat's wall in Newquay (not sure what it's called?).

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#390 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 20, 2016, 02:28:07 pm
.......Deadpoint Bouldering Studio....

Danny

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#391 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 20, 2016, 08:59:56 pm
.......Deadpoint Bouldering Studio....

Thanks for the information. That looks to fit the bill. A couple of panels of 45+ will keep me ticking over nicely.

Andy W

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#392 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 20, 2016, 09:04:28 pm
.......Deadpoint Bouldering Studio....

Thanks for the information. That looks to fit the bill. A couple of panels of 45+ will keep me ticking over nicely.

I'm afraid that shut sometime ago.

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#393 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 20, 2016, 09:07:30 pm

With the recent demise of Magic Wood in Liskaerd

What happened to Simon's wall?  When did it close?  Was it not getting enough use to be viable?

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#394 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 20, 2016, 09:11:09 pm
.......Deadpoint Bouldering Studio....

Thanks for the information. That looks to fit the bill. A couple of panels of 45+ will keep me ticking over nicely.

I'm afraid that shut sometime ago.

So it looks like your options are 1 & 1/2 hr drive to the Barn or build your own woody. (I've not climbed at the Penryn wall but it looks truly shit.)

Sorry to piss on your chips ...

Danny

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#395 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 21, 2016, 08:43:22 pm
.......Deadpoint Bouldering Studio....

Thanks for the information. That looks to fit the bill. A couple of panels of 45+ will keep me ticking over nicely.

I'm afraid that shut sometime ago.

So it looks like your options are 1 & 1/2 hr drive to the Barn or build your own woody. (I've not climbed at the Penryn wall but it looks truly shit.)

Sorry to piss on your chips ...

Woody it is then. I have a sizeable one in my current back yard. Half tempted to ship it, but I think I'll be able to rent my house to climbing sorts easily if I don't.

Sad to hear that the wee spots have gone under. 

BrutusTheBear

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#396 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 21, 2016, 09:28:31 pm
On the plus side, you will be nice and close to that real rock stuff.  Lots of potential for developing in the far west too, if you like exploring and putting up new stuff it's all good.😀

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#397 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
June 21, 2016, 10:19:07 pm
On the plus side, you will be nice and close to that real rock stuff.  Lots of potential for developing in the far west too, if you like exploring and putting up new stuff it's all good.😀

For the most part, exploring and developing is climbing in Ireland. Happy as a pig in shit I'm sure. Looks like an amazing part of the world.

Duma

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#398 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
July 08, 2016, 04:05:01 pm
Bunch of new links/starts on the superbloc at tintagel: http://www.rustypeg.co.uk/8a-8b-sends-coach-student-tintagel/

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#399 Re: South West (England) Bouldering
July 10, 2016, 06:17:37 pm
Me and my mate spent a bit of time in Cornwall last week developing/documenting some boulders at Porth Nanven near St Just- worth checking out on a windy day (the sun just doesn't cut it... take a few towels).

Here's a quick vid of the stuff we did:

 

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