[crimp]

So, i overdid it a bit yesterday and have done a mischief to my right middle finger.

Finger hurts all up but pain and mild swelling seems to be centred around knuckle. Hurts to straighten, bend, palm side of knuckle sort of creaking, and hurts when i do the hand on table thing.

Looking on this-

http://climbinginjuries.com/fingers-pulleys/

i reckon knuckle ligament damage.

I get the advice on taking it easy and climbing well juggy stuff only.

It recommends taping to next finger.

My question is this. Does it matter whether taped to index or ring finger? And does it want to be taped up all time or just when climbing?

Cheers

[crimp]

Right, the damage seems to be on ring finger side, so that answers which finger to buddy tape it to.

Just need to know if it needs everyday taping or just for climbing?

Oh, and will it get me sympathy from from the opposite sex?

[mrjonathanr]

I'd only tape when climbing unless ultra-serious in which case I doubt you'd be able to climb, you need gentle movement to help heal it.

[Moo]

For my two cents I'd say that buddy taping is largely bollocks. The only time I could see it being useful is if you have a bad injury and you couldn't take it easy for whatever reason. When I've tried it in the past it's just ended up putting my fingers in an unnatural position and causing more grief than it's worth.

I think your better off avoiding taping, especially on a new injury where you need to feel whats going on and it could inhibit much needed blood flow.

[crimp]

I don't think it's that serious. Not sure how you'd tell. Put it this way, just using that finger and my thumb, i can pick up a full pint of cider, but it's painful to do so.

I am not so bothered with the pain, more the risk of seriously injuring it whilst it's weak.

Think I'll just stick to easy angled juggy stuff, and try both untaped and buddy taping, and see which feels least stressful on finger.

spent last night alternating between frozen veg and hot water bottle on knuckle. That's supposed to minimise the damage, but may be an old wives tale for all i know.

Bit of a pisser really. Weather is perfect today. Thought i had best lay off completely for today though.

[Fultonius]

Wise up. If it hurts to pick up a pint you should not be climbing until it doesn't. End of.

Pain is a good signal of doing further damage. Take it easy.

[Moo]

Icing is a very good thing as it takes the swelling down. Some people will try to tell that you need the swelling but you don't. All excess swelling will do is damage and weaken surrounding tissue so it best to minimise it as much as possible.

[mrjonathanr]

I am not so bothered with the pain, more the risk of seriously injuring it whilst it's weak.

Pain, in this case (ie recent ligament/ or tendon), IS injuring it.

spent last night alternating between frozen veg and hot water bottle on knuckle. That's supposed to minimise the damage, but may be an old wives tale for all i know.

Not apocryphal, it increases blood flow. You should finish with ice not heat. Tissues are more fragile when cold so leave it to warm without fiddling. Just icing will also have net effect of increasing blood flow as circulation returns to warm the area.

I've never taped fingers together fwiw, prefer to tape it fairly solid so it cannot bend enough to stress the relevant ligaments and do lots of v. diffs/easy stuff for a bit.

Proper ligament damage has always taken a good 3 months to heal for me, but back climbing with restraint in a few weeks. This is because blood supply to these tissues is poor. Read Dave McLeod's advice on this, he has experience (and a degree in sport science): 'Ice therapy' is the bit, there used to be video to explain the cool water treatment but you can work it out by trial and error.
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2010/05/pulley-injuries-article.html

[TobyD]

My tuppence worth; I feel that the only value in taping is really a) if the tape reminds you the finger is injured, and not to pull on it. b) fig 8 style, such that you cannot physically crimp with that finger.

However, if you are taking it easy on jugs (as you should be) i would not bother at all. Buddy taping seems like a poor idea for a number of reasons - unnatural position, encourages increased confidence and inappropriate loading etc. Climb easy (really easy), don't climb until you are tired and ice after.

When you look at the loads involved, and the tensile strength a a bit of strappal, i'd say you'll decide it is a waste of time as well. 

[crimp]

Thanks.

Yea. I laid off it completely for a week.

Last Sunday had very easy slabby bouldering sessions round bottom of some v diffs and severes. (Just taped up to first joint, and like you say, seems most use in reminding me to lay off it).

This week just done some whole hand dead hangs on chin up bar, and gentle finger squeezes with hand trainer to keep finger moving.

Going well. Swelling gone completely. Palm side of knuckle still grinding, and tendony bits still sore.

Will repeat and do nothing more strenuous until fully back to normal.

[crimp]

Quick question.

I have done nothing more than above. In fact even laid off whole hand dead hangs

Joint started hurting again. No swelling, but re-gone stiff and grating to move.

Keep moving or immobilise?

[crimp]

No need to respond. I know the answer.

I will lay off completely until it's right.

I am just so fucking angry with myself for allowing it to happen.

But hey, if anyone needs a spotter or belayer in next 4-6 weeks,  give me a shout eh.