5 x (1:30 on, 2 mins rest x 3 - Rest 6 minutes or longer if needed to depump)
Just did this yesterday on a fingerboard(no campus board available unfortunately). it feels like hell near the end, you really have to fight for it.I started off with half crimp and transitioned to dragging when my fingers just couldnt maintain the position any longer. definitely a proper work out. just thinking about it gives me a flash-back pump.Compared to 4x4s I've done it's not nearly as much a full body workout, but it's great training not just for PE in the forearms but also forcing you to breathe while maintaining body tension(f-in hard!) and climbing through a pump. It is amazing how deep into pump you can go doing this.
A followup on the above. Instead of shortening the session to 1:00, use bigger holds and aim for the 1:30 if possible. Other tricks I've found to make the session more "climbing-like" are to do a foot movement after every hand movement. If I'm doing the session on a fingerboard and feet on a chair, I'll raise one foot to the top of the chair back and set it back down, then do a hand movement. This creates a different contraction interval for the muscles which more closely mimics climbing. Similar idea if you are actually on a campus board with feet. If all possible do the same hold size or sequence of holds throughout the 1:30. That way you have a consistant workload. So if you are moving on and off better holds, copntrol the time spent on the beter holds, so that the workout is consistent.As part of a warm-up, I'll do a 30 second sequence followed by 2 min rest, then a :45 sequence followed by 3minute rest, then a 1:00 sequence followed by 5 minute rest, then on to the workout. That way you hopefully don't get a flash pump in the first set which you never really recover from.
So I haven't been doing anything remotely related to endurance besides this foot on fingerboarding thingy 3 times in the past 2 weeks. (the moving your feet around suggestion is brilliant btw.)Went to the lead wall yesterday and hung on longer than I've ever had! Very cool.
OK, so the feet on stuff is going well although it's draining me of life.Only managing one day a week at the moment. Do people really do this at the end of a session?
I think this is down to there being very short to little movement with the fingerboard version.
Just wanted to mention that I'm doing the foot on fingerboarding once a week these days and maintaining fitness, and even, slightly but consistently, gaining. The rest of the week I am generally evenly split between hard bouldering and moderate route climbing(where i dont really train, but just climb for fun)My sessions are pretty short, i would do them at the end of a moderate bouldering session or a fingerboard session. 2 or 3 sets of 2 minutes on, 2 minutes off.The beauty of this workout is that you can tune it to your goal - longer routes or shorter harder ones.I tune mine for shorter harder power endurance which suits the routes in my area and it seems to be fairly effective - I can pull multiple hard(for me) moves much better now than ever before. Btw, i am resting for about the same time i am on - 2 minutes. because i thought that was the standard for interval training for anaerobic endurance, but it seems other folks are resting longer?
If its outside redpoints I'd go with a hard redpoint style circuit that takes maybe 2.5 - 3 minutes all out effort, and then rest 10 mins. The rest needs to be long enough for quality burns each go, aim for 3-4 burns that are all good efforts. If your rest is too short your efforts will be short lived and you won't go into PE but just fade fast.
Thinking about putting so climbing holds or a strip of wood above my fingerboard... Anyone else done this? Seems like a good alternative to a campus boar. But I've only got about a foot and a bit room... Reckon this is enough movement?
Ahh shall read it cheers. How mic distance you got between?
