[catbreath]

For the last few weeks I've had mild pain slowly coming and going around the a2 pulley on my middle finger - if I squeeze the fleshy bit around the proximal phalange against the bone it's pretty tender (giving it a bit of a massage seems to temporarily ease it off). Theres no visible swelling, no reduction in movement or stiffness, and nothing else causes any pain at all...there's no pain before, during or after climbing, using open handed grips or crimps with or without my thumbs, pulling my fingers in random directions is painless and I've not noticed any day to day stuff causing any pain either (unless it squeezes that fleshy bit) - its only when I squeeze that bit against the bone. Most stuff on web talks about pain when climbing with pulley injuries, which I don't have, but should I still assume its a pulley injury and take a break? FWIW, I've only climbed twice in the last 3 weeks.

[andy_e]

I have had this in three different fingers in the past few months. It was diagnosed on this thread as a probable partial tear. I use a Spiky ( http://www.facebook.com/spikymassager?ref=ts&fref=ts ) to massage it once or twice a day and after every session and it seems to have cleared up fairly quickly. Make sure you warm up slowly (don't go busting out full crimps for a while until you feel warm!) and everything should be A-OK.

[tomtom]

Really hard to tell if this is an injury or whether you've just been 'working' the joint hard etc.. I certainly get aches/mild pain in knuckles after doing some more crimpage than I'm used to etc.. I'd err on the side of caution always though..

[mrjonathanr]

I like this stuff, the green's quite firm but ok, red would be fine too.

[krymson]

I believe that's a pretty clear warning sign of a minor partial tear

Surprised no one has linked this yet but this is the best advice on the matter:

http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.tw/2010/05/pulley-injuries-article.html

Only thing i would add is that I find contrast therapy more effective(or at least more time-efficient) than the cold water therapy he prescribes.


to elaborate on the Contrast therapy, the purpose is to increase blood flow to the affected area -- the idea is that soft-tissues don't normally get enough blood flow for optimal recovery.

Get two bowls or pots, one ice water, one hot(but not unpleasantly so) stick the hand in ice water for a few minutes, once it's thoroughly cold, stick the hand in hot water for a few minutes, repeat 2 to 3 cycles). You should feel a fairly strong tingling sensation in the hand both ways -- the hot water providing a stronger and longer tingle.

I get pretty good results with it -- reduction in pain even after just one treatment.

[Tombondphysio]

With regards to contrast baths - 2mins in cold, 2 mins in hot, alternatively for max 15mins
Always start and finish with cold



heres a link to my blog post on pulley injuries too, which you may find useful:
http://thomasbondphysio.blogspot.co.uk/2012/12/pulley-injuries.html