[shark]

Weight 11st 6-8 (last week 11st 7-9)

Mon. AM Systems board fingery endurance burnt out quickly so only did one set. Eve. Weights 140kg deadlift  No idea where that came from - hardly touched free weights since 2011
Tues.
Weds. Eve. Weighted deadhangs
Thurs. Noon. Systems board fingery endurance. OK session
Fri.     
Sat. Noon. Weighted deadhangs bit down on weds. Also deadlifted 140kgs again though didnt quite straighten out   
Sun. PM. Foundry with the boys. Bouldered on the Wave. Shoveled snow

Had hoped to go to Malham on thursday but word was it was gopping    so no outside climbing with the snow n' all

Hard to stay motivated to lose weight etc.

[Dolly]

M ill
T ill
W ill but a bit better
T not quite so ill but tired
F Foundry. Felt OK but lost "pull" quickly
S Beastmaker. I hate the fucking thing but its good for 30 mins workout
S nothing


Can't be a worse week next week

[Muenchener]

STG: (indoor) 7a redpoint
MTG (2013): Frankenjura VII onsight; Alpine multipitch VI; Welsh trad E2
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

A week similar to last week,

M:
T: Wall, Thalkirchen: Short session: one hour endurance circuits in the 6b/+ range
W:
T: Wall, Thalkirchen: Short session: one hour endurance circuits in the 6b/+ range
F: Alpine approach training: 3 x 40 stories stair run in office with rucksack full of water bottles. Not getting less desperate.
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. A few warm-up boulders, then working on 7a circuit project. Repeated my previous longest link (23 moves out of 30) and worked on getting consistently repeatable sequences on the rest. Last move is desperate, in and oldskool brick edge cruising sort of way. No amount of sequence faggotry will help: can I hold the hold or not?
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. Mostly belaying my son; also threw in a few sets of feet-on campusing. 3½ x one minute on, one off. Benchmark for future improvement.

[abarro81]

Simon - it would seem that in the last month you've done 2 days bouldering? Just me, but if I were trying a short PE proj I would definitely be doing significantly more than that. Based on looking at what others are doing/have done I have yet to be convinced that totally replacing 2 days a week of bouldering by deadhanging is worthwhile. Especially during a period where you're actually trying to perform, and especially when your route is somewhere like malham where you want to be feeling on it with regards to undercutty burl. Boulder + deadhang - yes. Deadhang only?  unconvinced... whatever Eva says. Note that it's not like her testing actually compared strength gains to those made by, say, bouldering for 1-1.5hrs then doing your few hard hangs.

[csl]

Goals for March.
Rehab finger
Rehab shoulder
Get really fit whilst recovering - try to do 4/5 endurance orientated sessions a week
Run an 17.50 park run.
Go outside

Mon - Milton Keynes, climbing, warmed up bouldering up to V4. Climbed 78 moves of a 100 move circuit, felt about 6c+ to here? But who knows. Then did routes, laps of 3 on a 6c on the steepest bit of wall x3 plus a couple of easier routes. Back on the circuit, managed to battle through to move 84 but got wrong handed. Worked the rest, could be 7a+ for the whole thing.
Tue - run, 1.5km speed efforts w/ 500m recovery.
Wed - Northampton, climbing. Warmed up bouldering up to V4 again, tried some harder things. Ended up feeling quite powered out when it came to routes. But did the start of a steep 7b into another route to avoid small holds, about 6c/+. and another 8 or so routes up to 6c all onsight. + A couple of failures on another 7b.
Thur -
Fri - morning, KK climbing, Onsighted a few new problems. Then did some harder moves. Finished with 25 minutes ARC, boring.
       Afternoon, meant to go out for an easy run, after the first 1km realised i was feeling good and ended up with a 10km PB of 39.06. Really pleased with that!
Sat - 
Sun - Run 7km in 31 mins.
         Climbing, some harder problems up to V6 to start. Included some smaller holds. Then made a new circuit since my old one had most of the holds stripped. Feels around 6b+, did 5 laps.

Finger is beginning to feel a bit better, still feels painful when i massage it or prod it but starting to open hand and half 'quarter' crimp some holds without any pain.

[cheque]

STG- E2 on grit this season, touch rock.
MTG- 7B. 7b and E3 in 2013.

M- Notts Depot bouldering. New comp problems. Managed 24 of the 30- something like 212 points in one session, compared to 193 in the entire month last time! Most people seem to agree they're softer than previous months but I'm still chuffed.
T- Rest.
W- Notts Depot circuit board. 5x yellow circuit with 4 minute rests inbetween. 5th consecutive week I've reduced this by 1 minute. Didn't feel easy though! Working blue circuit after which is far more crimpy. Done in three overlapping sections.
T- Rest.
F- Rest.
S- Notts Depot. More work on blue circuit- in two overlapping sections now. Fingery bouldering after.
S- Notts Depot. Close to doing blue circuit- failed in the same place, a few moves from the end, three times. I really want to be get this wired and replace the now easy feeling yellow circuit with it on my Wednesday sessions. Core session after.

This weekend was meant to be my first weekend trip of the year. Obviously the weather fucked that up and I've now gone a month without actual rock climbing- the last time this happened was early 2009. 

Training gaines continue though and I've got strong enough to work crimp endurance (by far my biggest weakness) now and I've made progress on this area in a week.

[shark]

Simon - it would seem that in the last month you've done 2 days bouldering? Just me, but if I were trying a short PE proj I would definitely be doing significantly more than that. Based on looking at what others are doing/have done I have yet to be convinced that totally replacing 2 days a week of bouldering by deadhanging is worthwhile. Especially during a period where you're actually trying to perform, and especially when your route is somewhere like malham where you want to be feeling on it with regards to undercutty burl. Boulder + deadhang - yes. Deadhang only?  unconvinced... whatever Eva says. Note that it's not like her testing actually compared strength gains to those made by, say, bouldering for 1-1.5hrs then doing your few hard hangs.

Alex - in the last 4 weeks the priority has been to get on the Oak and I've been on it 6 times (would have been 7 if it hadn't crapped out last week) and any other stuff has been incidental. This week has been a bit disjointed as a consequence of it crapping out and an abortive business trip to Swansea . I'm reasonably happy with my performance ie overlapping halves. I would also argue that the sessions on the Oak has been the equivalent of bouldering on a rope. Now its wet I am keen to get stuck into the Wave again but also do the weighted deadhangs and PE sessions on the systems board. If the tor is dry for bouldering on weedkiller reverse or Ben's roof so much the better. I remain positive that the weighted deadhangs is addressing a specific personal weakness and is laying a good foundation for fingery endurance. I appreciate that my approach is very diffrent to yours but as you memorably obnce said there is more than one way to skin a cat/crush a route. Lets face it I am attempt to punch above my ability on the Oak. Going forward hopefully this week will be M. Rest T. Lunch weighted deadhangs. Eve Wave bouldering. W. Lunch. Systems board endurance. T. Rest. F. Weighted deadhangs. S. Wave bouldering S. Not sure  and something similar next week then a place called Fontainbleu for 6 days where I understand there is some bouldering 

[shark]

but thanks for taking notice and giving a shit 

[rich d]

Mon to sat worked, drank and ate too much. Sun pm depot notts session did quite a few of the pink comp problems.
Goals for this week
Mon dead hangs
Tues core and more core
Wed dead hangs
Thur core and pull ups/lock offs
Fri day off
Sat dead hangs and core
Sun peak if weather is ok.
 

[fried]

Monday - Indoor session, back to back with a session yesterday. Horrible ache in my elbow tendon, so I sack it off after an hour. I'm sure the real culprit was hammering off kitchen tiles all morning.
Tuesday - Careful BM sesion. 3 sets. All is fine.
Wednesday - Rest
Thursday - BM session. 4 sets.
Friday - rest
Saturday - Indoor session. Did a lot. Very tired. Lug 15kg of meat around in carrier bags. Tile the kitchen.
Sunday - Build the last piece of furniture.

Weight 73.7kg

Hopefully most of the work in the flat is now finished and my outside climbing ban will be revoked. Hopefully the current nice weather will last into the weekend.

[Luke Owens]

STG - F7b and Font 7A (Very happy)!
MTG - F7c and Font 7A+
LTG - F8a and Font 7B/+

Revised STG (Next couple of months) - F7b+ and another Font 7A

Monday - Rest

Tuesday - Pantymwyn - Poured down with rain and misty all day. Stayed optimistic and headed down there after work in desperation to try Robert Duvall (Font 7A) again. Unbelievably all of the Gorge was bone dry! Warmed up traversing and then sent it first go! Massively psyched! First of the grade for me. Both short term goals ticked!

Video:

Wednesday - Rest

Thursday - Oswestry Indoor Bouldering - Final round of the comp, worst score I've ever had but had fun all the same, helping the girlfriend out on some easier problems. Plenty of friends at the wall, good scene. Did a lot of climbing.

Friday - Fingerboard Repeaters - 5 sec hangs, 5 sec rest x 6 (2 minutes rest between sets)

1. One hand on 20's one hand on 35's on Slopers.
2. Alternate hands as above.
3. Middle 2
4. Pinch grip with a 20kg weight attached to a piece of 2x4.
5. Pinch grip with other hand as above.
6. Front 3 - open hand.
(Did 2 sets of all the above hangs)

Saturday - Snowed in/ill

Sunday - Snowed in/ill - Spent 2+ hours shovelling back car park...

[nai]

then a place called Fontainbleu for 6 days where I understand there is some bouldering 

Clearly not a boulderer or a believer, it's Fontainebleau

[nai]

Bad week for me, ill most of it, did some gentle climbing Monday & core Saturday. Otherwise it was just elbow rehab exercises which were going really well, got to a point of being discomfort-free, but then something went wrong and it's back to where it was, maybe even worse than, before I saw the physio.  Got an appointment this week to see what's gone wrong, will resting it in the meantime. All goals on-hold...

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: As ever!

M: Rest
T:  Rest
W: Mileage + AeroCap @ The Works (actually worked harder than I expected ending up on blues and swirlys and felt surprisingly strong!!!)
T: Rest
F: Mileage @ The Works
S: Rest
S: Mileage + AeroCap @ The Works

Rest Week - Started with a bit of a sore elbow but post climbing pressups seem to have put that back in it's place. Did do some propper bouldering (albiet indoor) and surprised myself a few times.. Finger's still heavily taped but can finally pull on it pain free (not going to stop taping just yet).

This week - keep an eye on elbow and finger but ramp things up..

:D

[Fiend]

+ build more lego.

[Duma]

STG - keep niggles in check, run regularly, get in shape for MTG
MTG - Peak before spring, generally get out more. If I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - TCA, but only because daughter insisted - no climbing for me. Then nights
T - TCA before work. Did blue up middle of mothership (prob 7B/+ ish) and should've done one of the harder Oranges, let down by shoddy footwork and ran out of time. Then nights
W - dentist (only one more to go!) then nights
T - nights
F - Childcare
S - Childcare
S - Was hoping to get out today, but record low psyche level for local stuff, and concern re state of roads further north resulted in failure. On the up side, really good session at TCA, finished three oranges I've been trying for a while, and a couple more steep things on the mothership, including a red I've been working for a couple of weeks. One of the oranges was a slab too - always good to do some hard slab climbing indoors. All mid 7's, so pleased. Sadly elbow hurt again - need less plastic, more rock!

68-69kg

[chillax]

STG - Rehab ankle
MTG - E4, 7B

M - Gym. 1 hr stat bike. WFH back & chest. Core
T - Physio. Getting better.
W - 1 hr unfocussed campussing in Gravity. Picked up new Fair Head bouldering guide. Psyched. Gym. 30mins stat bike. WFH arms & shoulders. Core.
T - nowt
F - Gym. 1hr stat bike. WFH back & chest. Core.
S - Gym. 1hr stat bike. WFH arms & shoulders. Core. 5kg assistance needed for R arm one-armer. 10kg for L arm.
S - Nothing

No fingerboarding, as last set hurt my L elbow. Will try again next week. Body starting to regain acceptable shape. Still need to shift some pudge from the states. Feeling a bit stronger overall, but going stir crazy as I still can't really climb. Ankle is recover apace though. Soon my pretty...

[webbo]

Goals Recover from chest infection and back spasm.

Mon. Back a little easier, walked for 45mins. Evening started with the trots, probably side effect of anti biotics.
Tues. Both back and guts a bit better, told to stop anti biotics. Managed a dead hanging session, walked 45 mins.
Wed. Back feeling much better, back to normal movement. Home board did 30 steadish problems.
Thu. No stiffness or pain in back. Power/endurance session on h/board 6 x 22 move circuit with 5 mins rest between each set. Weight session later in day.
Fri. Turbo 50 mins chest felt okish.
Sat. Home board going reasonably ok despite hangover, repeated a problem I've struggling with.
Sun. Weights. I was going to use the turbo and go for a walk but ended up going to the pub with the missus.

Back now seems ok, not sure about chest infection whether its hanging on or I've now got the missus cold.

 

[duncan]

STG - touch dry rock

MTG - E5

LTG - Various LH+F on Alpine Rock and USA

Another crap weekend’s weather, when will it end?  I’d logged 49 routes by this time in 2011; I have 7 in 2013. 

Streaming nose again this week so took it pretty easy.  A couple of sessions to keep things ticking over.

My rope-gun for Italy/Switzerland this summer has indicated that he can only manage 5 days away in mid-July. This is a major NNFN. Anyone fancy a trip to the Dolomites or Bernese Oberland in late August?

M - Shoulder stability, finger rolls, wrist strengthening, stretches
T -
W -
T - Biscuit Factory bouldering. Played on some of the Hendrix circuit.  Interesting setting by Steve McLure.  30 x V0-V2 in 30 minutes.
F - Shoulder stability, finger rolls, wrist strengthing, stretches
S - Westway routes - c.10 to 6b+
S - Shoulder stability, stretches

[shark]

Boulder + deadhang - yes. Deadhang only?  unconvinced... whatever Eva says. Note that it's not like her testing actually compared strength gains to those made by, say, bouldering for 1-1.5hrs then doing your few hard hangs.

OK, I'll give it a go