[AJM]

Don't quite know if this is the right forum but anyone got any suggestions for punter level (up to about 7A or so) bouldering in north wales (based around Capel but happy to drive a bit) that might be in any sunshine going but most importantly is sheltered from the wind and not plastered in snow?

Thanks!

Andy

[Luke Owens]

Ruthin Escarpment is dry although that's about 50 minutes drive from Curig...

Could tie it in with a trip to Pantymwyn, which will mostly be dry too.

[ziggytang]

Don't think there's many problems up to 7a at Pantymwyn to warrant the drive over?

I can't imagine there will be many areas that aren't covered in snow tomorrow around Capel C at this rate either if I'm honest.

[Luke Owens]

Don't think there's many problems up to 7a at Pantymwyn to warrant the drive over?

I can't imagine there will be many areas that aren't covered in snow tomorrow around Capel C at this rate either if I'm honest.

There's:

2 - 6B+'s
3 - 6C's
4 - 7A's

Not all the best problems, but better than going indoors....

Ruthin has endless link up's 7A and below and independent lines. Probably best off going there.

www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=550

[Johnny Brown]

Porth Ysgo. Perpetually sunny, loads of great 5s and 6s, should be under an hour from Capel.

[AJM]

Porth Ysgo. Perpetually sunny, loads of great 5s and 6s, should be under an hour from Capel.

Exposed to the wind or ok? Always wanted to go but had assumed it was quite open and so would catch the wind.

[nai]

This was the last weekend in January when the rest of the country was covered in a foot of snow, it was windy but fairly sheltered in between the boulders.  All the problems in the film fit you're criteria and all are good. Go, it's awesome.

[Johnny Brown]

Even when the wind is straight onshore its often calm at the boulders due the hillside above. As above, t-shirts are the norm in winter if the sun is out. The only conditions to avoid are actual rain (check the radar as it misses most) and big tides with a swell running.

[nai]

We were actually being blown over as we approached with our pads on that day.  Couldn't believe it was so much calmer down on the shore.

[AJM]

Ysgo came up trumps, thanks for the tip! Took a bit longer than expected to get there mind you!

Did Ysgo Flange, Higginsons Scar, Fast Cars, Truth, Justice etc all very good

Does anyone know what the score is with Really Cool Toys and Toys Right Hand? Based on the photos in Boulder Britain and the descriptions in north Wales bouldering, Truth starts at a jug on the left arete, Justice at the sloping hold just right, which to my mind left the obvious sit start mentioned in north Wales bouldering being a sidepull flake underneath two sloping ledges...? Those problems didn't really (at all) seem V6 though - am I in the wrong place?

[tomtom]

Just flown over (flight back from states) crystal clear over the Llyn, clear over snowdon and the pass apart from a pretty lenticular over snowdon. Bit cloudier then on. TT

[Grubes]

Hi Andy,
For really cool toys I think we got it right based on this photo http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=163319 on my video at 1.51 nai feels the holds on really cool toys then does it at the end of the vid.

it was 1 hard move from a sit start slapping a sloper. I failed to get my fat arse off the floor.

[AJM]

I saw the photo and vid, but we thought based on phots in BB an. Description in nwb that that was Justice SDS...

[tomtom]

it was 1 hard move from a sit start slapping a sloper. I failed to get my fat arse off the floor.

I failed to get my skinny ass off the floor

The BB guide had a few errors at Ysgo (lines in wrong places) from what we could tell...

[andy popp]

Just flown over (flight back from states) crystal clear over the Llyn, clear over snowdon and the pass apart from a pretty lenticular over snowdon. Bit cloudier then on. TT

Brilliant. I think we need more of these 'eye in the sky' conditions reports. Insect Overlords can afford a helicopter right?

I had a great view of the Gunks from a flight into Newark last week. They looked snowy.

[SA Chris]

Mate of mine used to train pilots based at RAF Ogmore. He could check out surf in the morning on a flight to Pembroke and back before deciding where to surf in the afternoon. hard life.

[tomtom]

It was spectacular this morning. Anglesey must have been underneath - and you could see across to Aberystwyth. Sadly the fat fidgety knacker sat next to me obstructed my view - or I'd have taken a pic.

[nai]

Hi Andy,
For really cool toys I think we got it right based on this photo http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=163319 on my video at 1.51 nai feels the holds on really cool toys then does it at the end of the vid.

I saw the photo and vid, but we thought based on phots in BB an. Description in nwb that that was Justice SDS...

To be fair, we (me, tomtom & Grubes) don't really know, it was out first visit too.  We had NWB & BB but a handy local (Owen) was of most use.  It was he who confirmed that as RCT.  Certainly when I first sat under it using BB as my guide I was aghast to think it was 5+.  And when I sat under the line drawn as RCT it felt distinctly unclassic.