[the_dom]

I've started training more (due to being a weak punter) and I currently do two things:
(1) sets of weighted pullups on a single-pad doorframe
(2) sets of weighted deadhangs on a half-pad doorframe
(this is due to my fat-arse housemate pulling the hangboard out the wall).

My question is this: Which is better for deadhangs and finger strength - using higher weights on a larger edge, or lower weights on a smaller edge?

This is assuming that I open-hand everything, rather than close crimp.

Thanks
Dom

[Bubba]

I think it's better to do heavier hangs on bigger edges. Less chance of injury for a start.

Did you ever see the ClimbXmedia Protips film on finger strength? That was a good little guide. The guy was doing one arm hangs on biggish edges with weights on rather than using tiny edges.

Also have a look here:

http://www.planetfear.com/climbing/training/neilgresham/ng_fingerboarding.htm

[dave]

the Jared Roth "Sick crimp strength" ProTips was a load of useless bollocks. It was basically him (who climbs like F8c+) saying " i get sick crimp strength by doing one-arm hangs on crimps" then shows a video of him doing one-arm hangs (half lock) on a campus board then casually swings round swapping arm without coming to the floor. Well that all very well if you're already strong enough to do one arm hangs.

be careful doing weighted hangs on "doorframes", since most likely the architrave will only be nailed on.

[Bubba]

Hi principles seemed quite sound though - like he was only doing weighted work on bigger holds.

I'll have to dig it out again for a re-watch...

[dave]

yeah the principles were right, just a bit daft to present it that way, bearing in mind that anyone strong enough to do his shit probably already knows what to do anyway.

[the_dom]

the Jared Roth "Sick crimp strength" ProTips was a load of useless bollocks. It was basically him (who climbs like F8c+) saying " i get sick crimp strength by doing one-arm hangs on crimps" then shows a video of him doing one-arm hangs (half lock) on a campus board then casually swings round swapping arm without coming to the floor. Well that all very well if you're already strong enough to do one arm hangs.

Exactly - I can't do a one arm deadhang on anything other than pretty large holds. How do I get to the point where I can do one on something approximating a small hold (i.e. a one and a half pad crimp)?

be careful doing weighted hangs on "doorframes", since most likely the architrave will only be nailed on.

These ones seem quite solid - at least more than the hangboard was..

[a dense loner]

to be quite honest i wud throw that jared roth bollox out before people think it's good to do. he is a tiny guy who has no bodyweight. if he couldn't hang on a board like that i wud be more impressed. seriously he is tiny n this kind of thing should not be attempted at home by people who weigh more than 8stone n like their fingers. i would lay off pull ups n do more deadhangs, if not for any other reason than gettin stronger fingers enables u to see a marked improvement quickly. but who am i in the grand scheme of things?

[Bubba]

How do I get to the point where I can do one on something approximating a small hold (i.e. a one and a half pad crimp)?

You could start by hanging the big hold that you can hang already, then slowly add a small amount of weight until you can hang the next sized hold down. Repeat.

You want to keep from hanging with your arm(s) fully locked out as well.

[dobbin]

On the subject of Mr Roth and his ProTips, he's hanging a crimp position, this is an ace way to knack your knuckles in, current thinking seems to be to open hand rather than force your fingers out of position.

The rungs on that board are massive! you could camp on them!

[Doylo]

I use a small edge rather than doing weighted hangs, i can only hang it for 8 seconds or summit. I think if you've got injury prone fingers it'd be better to use a bigger edge with weights but if they never feel tweaky get on small one. Defo a brilliant exercise for finger stength.

[Tim Heaton]

What I did on my fingerboard was to attach a pulley to the bottom of it in the centre, you can buy them from DIY shops for a couple of quid. I have run through some 4mm cord and then I can remove weight pretty easily on smaller holds by attaching a fixed weight to one end of the cord and then holding onto the other end with my free hand. I like it as it gives me a measureable way to see if I am getting better. As an alternative I found that by just putting one hand against the wall (pinching door surround e.t.c.) you can support a fair amount of weight off it allowing you to hang something you otherwise couldn't with the other.

[the_dom]

I think if you've got injury prone fingers it'd be better to use a bigger edge with weights but if they never feel tweaky get on small one. Defo a brilliant exercise for finger stength.

I've actually done this exercise with a finger injury that was preventing me from climbing funiily enough. I couldn't close crimp, so I just started open handing everything, which is what I do now. I think there have been gains in strength, and no injuries either..

[ned]

when deadhanging people say don't hang on a dead straight arm. How bent should it be, fully locked off or just a little bent?

[Bubba]

Just a bit will do, so long as you're not locked out on the joint...

[the_dom]

when deadhanging people say don't hang on a dead straight arm. How bent should it be, fully locked off or just a little bent?

I deadhang with my arms at about 150 or 160 degrees. Fully straight arms will destroy your elbows and shoulders (I have a tweaky shoulder and tried deadhanging once on straight arms - felt it immediately)..

[ned]

ill try that, thanks