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[Cheshire][Helsby far RH][Arch Direct]6C (Read 3419 times)

tomtom

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[Cheshire][Helsby far RH][Arch Direct]6C
March 21, 2013, 02:51:58 pm
The direct line for the Arch (in the new guide). Avoiding the large Juggy ramp for the V1/2 problem 'the arch' power straight up using a rh crimp and crimpy pocket for the LH. This leads to a fairly unsighted slap to a good finishing crimp just left of the small pyramid shape point. Nice climbing about 6C ish for me. V5 or thereabouts.


Luke Owens

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Looks really good, nice one!

Dolly

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God I wouldnt go that far :)
Looks like green crumbly sandstone to me


Well done though TT

tomtom

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God I wouldnt go that far :)
Looks like green crumbly sandstone to me

Indeed! Its not the most flattering of pictures :) Despite the looks - its not actually crumbling and is pleasantly naturally featured. That craglet/buttress is a really nice spot in the summer - as its shaded by silver birches and tucked away far from any paths..

Well done though TT

Cheers - I had a good play on it last summer before the winter wetness set in.. Its of a case of bit of filling in the gaps, but I think it could be an FA, as I was chatting to Chris Calow there yesterday (who wrote the Helsby section for the new guide) and he hadnt done/noticed it..   [/end of cheshire esoterica ramble] ;)

andy popp

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Did this this afternoon. Slightly eliminate but good climbing on nice rock. It felt a bit easier than TT's grade but going crimp, crimp, crimp, rockover, crimp, it could have been made for me.

Now I'm on I'll write up a small circuit located just above the excellent Barrel Buttress bouldering (p. of the new Cheshire guide). None of its brilliant but its all kind of worthwhile and extends the Barrel Buttress offering a bit.

Immediately behind the top of Barrel Buttress is low-slung roof.

'Scraping the Barrel' V1 5b. Sit start in the middle of the roof below a thin seam and climb up via holds around it. Minor but nice climbing and holds.

A few feet left is a small wall capped by bulge.

'Nano Wall,' V2 6a. Sit start on two layaways in the middle of the wall, pull to good holds in the capping roof, reach over and make with the mantelling. Very minor but the top out is good fun.

Up and left an obvious steep prow sticks out the hill.

'High Flying Ignored,' V2 5b. Start on the left side of the pillar and climb very slightly right to do beached whale thing direct over the top bulge. Not very long but a very big drop underneath. This is a quality exciting highball.

Across the gully to the left is a vertical brown wall. 'Gully Wall,' V0- 4b. Pleasant easy climbing

Halfway between Barrel Buttress and Long Wall is tiny (really tiny) prow I had to climb in tribute to Lancashire  :-[

'Nestling,' V1 5b. The prow is marked by some obvious large veins. Sit start and up the nose on sloper and veins.

I forgot. On the Helsby Top Tier, a few yards right of the rightmost problem a small silver birch grows out of the base of green looking wall. 'Lime Wall,' V1 5b. Starting just left of the birch tree climb straight up the leaning wall to a fun mantel top out.
« Last Edit: April 15, 2013, 09:09:51 pm by andy popp »

tomtom

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Finally got around to filming this. Good problem.


andy popp

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Weird, only this morning I was wondering if I could remember the details of the little circuit I described above to add to the Pex FB page.

steveri

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Ah, misremembered this and climbed basically a left hand finish to the arch today. Big span (for me) for the top off the good ramp. Back around then. Nice though. Good consolation prize after too many attempts on the Harold’s Wall sitter. Probably just too warm, that’ll be it.

 

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