[robertostallioni]

Some good advice here if you're mechanically minded. Personally I'd be taking the lambo to  the garage.

https://www.howacarworks.com/advanced-driving/what-to-do-if-car-lights-stop-working

[tomtom]

Could be a fuse - often a group of lights on one side. First check of the bulbs have actually blown (inspection can tell). If not it’s a fuse or something else shorting.

If they have blown - then try changing a few and see if they blow again. It could be something weird or random - but of loads have gone at once I’d be wondering why... process of elimination and all that.

Double speed indicator is when one of the indicator bulbs is blown.

[cheque]

Cheers guys, I’ll be taking it to the garage no doubt. Too complicated to fuck about trying to diagnose myself but I am curious.

Cheers for the indicator knowledge TT. Is that a warning feature or some side-effect of the bulb failing?

I once replaced a brake light bulb with the wrong type in my old Micra which caused the brake lights to be on permanently. I only realised this after many lorries had panickedly flashed their lights at me after I pulled into the left lane in front of them!

[tomtom]

On older cars indicators used a bimetallic switch to do the on and off. When current flowed on the circuit to the indicators the metal in the switch would heat up - bend (two strips of different metal) and break the contact indicators would go off. Then the strip would cool and make the contact again - and repeat. So lights flicked on and off. And the contact being made and then broken by the switch made the indicator click.

If one bulb broke - the current in the circuit was greater so the switch warmed up faster so flashed faster.

Now it’s all electronics and they put a false click noise on to make everyone feel comfy.

[peewee]

This is the reason a relay is needed for trailer electronics as it can affect the indicator speed likewise using LED bulbs as they have less resistance.

If one bulb broke - the current in the circuit was greater so the switch warmed up faster so flashed faster.

[SA Chris]

Has water got in somewhere? Could cause everything to short out. It has been a tad damp lately.

[cheque]

It could be. The only category of lights that’s completely out is the little ones on the number plates so maybe that’s a useful clue. Got a guy coming to look at it on Thursday so I’ll let him worry about it!

[Johnny Brown]

Has water got in somewhere? Could cause everything to short out. It has been a tad damp lately.

 ^ this. Open the bonnet and clear all the leaves out from the top corners. Check the area round the fuse box etc. Leave it in the sun during the day.

[Oldmanmatt]

Has water got in somewhere? Could cause everything to short out. It has been a tad damp lately.

 ^ this. Open the bonnet and clear all the leaves out from the top corners. Check the area round the fuse box etc. Leave it in the sun during the day.

Sun?

It’s November, we won’t see that thing until after Easter...

[cheque]

Has water got in somewhere? Could cause everything to short out. It has been a tad damp lately.

 ^ this. Open the bonnet and clear all the leaves out from the top corners. Check the area round the fuse box etc. Leave it in the sun during the day.

Good advice this. Had a look just now and there was loads of leaves and leaf mulch in there and residual water as a result- clearing it out is the sort of thing I’ll do in a normal autumn but with it having rained very day for seemingly the last 6 weeks car-fiddling has been nonexistent.

Looks like water has got into the back of the fusebox and there’s one fuse that’s kind of melted into it’s place as a result of some kind of short. As I say there’s a pro coming to look at it on Thursday so hopefully it’ll be fairly quick and painless to get running again.

[SA Chris]

Hopefully some spare slots in the box, so he can just move the connectors across.

[cheque]

Fixed now- the fuse that was damaged is to do with the “control systems” and was shorting in and out rather than having straight blown. They were able to get it out, clean the contacts and replace it which is good as apparently VAG fuseboxes these days are “potted” and more extensive damage would have required a whole new one.

None of the bulbs were blown- all lights working again now they’ve sorted the fuse and reset the error codes with their diagnostic gadget. Didn’t cost me any more than the callout charge. 

[SA Chris]

Best result.

[Duma]

So I think one of the buttons on the key to the A3 (2008) has gone. Won't unlock remotely, though other two buttons work fine. I've a vague idea that new keys cost a fortune, and I'd live with just unlocking it manually but the alarm goes off unless I turn the ignition on pretty soon after opening it which is really irritating with kids/shopping etc. Is new key the only way or can I just get the button fixed?

[nic mullin]

I’ve only done it on ford keys, but I’d be surprised if yours is any different. You can usually get the buttons off eBay for a few quid for a pack of 3. If you have access to a soldering iron it’s a 5 minute job to change the button. Not sure if a cobblers-and-keys type place will replace a button for you, but they might. If neither of those is an option somewhere like timpsons will do you a key for a lot less than a dealer will, but you’re still probably looking at £50+.

[Fiend]

So I think one of the buttons on the key to the A3 (2008) has gone. Won't unlock remotely, though other two buttons work fine. I've a vague idea that new keys cost a fortune, and I'd live with just unlocking it manually but the alarm goes off unless I turn the ignition on pretty soon after opening it which is really irritating with kids/shopping etc. Is new key the only way or can I just get the button fixed?

LOL snap, exactly what's happened to me (A3 (2006)). Funny thing is, if I take the battery case off so the battery disconnects, the unlock button will start working again, sometimes for a couple of weeks but usually a couple of days.

Let me know if you get a decent fix, or I will too if I get my arse in gear first

[Duma]

Ha, cheers Fiend that worked! Hadn't even tried taking the back off as assumed the battery was OK from the other buttons working...

[Fiend]

For me it's only been a sporadic fix.

I took the case apart today to check things further - you need two small torque heads and it's fiddling getting the spring for the key itself back in. I couldn't see any obvious issues and didn't want to tinker with the circuit board further so just gave it a brush and put it back together....

[andy popp]

Am I allowed to say I haven't been in a car for over three weeks and its bloody fantastic.

[bigironhorse]

Anyone on here in the market for a cheap motor? I'm selling my 2005 Fabia 1.2 petrol if anyone's interested? It's in really good nick, I've had it for three and a bit years and have had no major problems. Engine serviced about 15k ago, currently about 100k on the clock. It seems pretty unstoppable. I have recently moved to Austria so need to sell, though I am very reluctant as it is such a great car.

Problems: petrol filler cap has to be opened from the boot as the cable has snapped.

I think it is worth about £600 but I am open to offers! It is currently in Hull so might be a bit out of the way for most.

[Fiend]

Ha, cheers Fiend that worked! Hadn't even tried taking the back off as assumed the battery was OK from the other buttons working...

BTW. I replaced the battery in mine and it's been unlocking fine for several weeks. Maybe the unlock button demands more power for security reasons? Anyway, might help.

[fatneck]

Anyone got any thoughts/knowledge on MPVs?
 
We're in the market for a new used car planning to spend £6-10k. Always had cheap high mileage estate cars (currently slumming it in a 2006 Vauxhall Astra on 130k miles ) and changed them every 3-4 years but the birth of a granddaughter, a decision to invest in something a bit more long-term and the prospect or more grandsprogs in the coming years has me thinking about an MPV.

My boss has a Ford Grand C-Max and rates it. I like the look of the Zafira Tourer and Citroen C4 Grand and there's plenty of all types around in the 25-40k mileage in our price range.

Has anyone on here got one and/or has preferences?

Cheers

[peewee]

I'd avoid the zafira at all costs, my grandpa had two of them but had nothing but issues with them, also possibly the most uncomfortable car I've ever ridden in. Been in a Cmax they look smart, ford are normally pretty reliable.

Always had cheap high mileage estate cars (currently slumming it in a 2006 Vauxhall Astra on 130k miles )

That all? barley run in, my 2010 Avensis is up to 163k so far.

 

[nai]

No model advice but I can recommend sliding rear doors, much easier to load them in/out of seats while they're very young without the door flapping around or half shut on you in a car park, and no chance of them opening a door and pranging another in a tight space when they grow a bit.

[tomtom]

Watch the ecoboost petrol engines on the C-Max. Ford say they've sorted it but still seem to be lots going...

BOOM!