[Jaspersharpe]

Well done Adge and monk for sticking up for SS. Sometimes it seems as if it's just me and pritch on here who have any taste with the slagging it gets.

You people know nothing.

[crimp]

I've enjoyed many good days and weekends on the southern sandstone. I took folks from newcastle and south west there. They were all surprised how good it can be.

It beats any London wall hands down.

[chillax]

I'll admit, I am intrigued by southern sandstone. Why do people think its shit? Though I must qualify this by saying that I've never climbed on anything in England. Partly the reason I want to move there for a while really. I need a large sample size of other locations to prove in my own mind that Fair Head is the best crag in the world 

[Rocksteady]

Think the above pretty much nails the love/hate feeling I have for London.

I've never actually lived anywhere else while I've been a climber, but I grew up in a more countrified area in the South East and do need my weekend climbing hits to tolerate the claustrophobic feeling that being in the Big Smoke too much brings. The tube is horrible (though my commute isn't too bad and I usually get a seat), the streets are too narrow and there isn't enough greenery (although the parks are very good for a big city). The outskirts of London within the M25 are mostly pretty depressing.

I don't know how good the climbing walls oop north are, but certainly the Westway lead walls and the Biscuit Factory for bouldering are good quality IMO (comparing to all other places I've been in the south-east, except Reading Wall which I think is very good all round).

Cheddar, Brean Down, Swanage and the southern Peak all within 2 1/2 - 3 hours drive from northwest London where I live, Portland within 3 1/2 hours. I'd hit Cheddar or Brean and even Swanage for day trips, but people who are more committed than me will get to the Peak and Portland for the day, even in winter. There is Southern Sandstone too - but for me not worth the trip if you live in west London. I'm not a convert!

It boils down to commitment to climbing really. If you're psyched and keen and will free up any weekend with decent weather, you could find someone to crank with every clear weekend. If you're quite keen but not super-committed and have a non-climbing girlfriend and lots of non-climbing mates in town (like me) you can still get out a lot of weekends. I've never known the pleasure of post-work rock - sounds amazing - but I'm used to the climbing wall. It gets super-packed sometimes which can be frustrating, but it's OK, and you can find ways to improve.

The non-climbing positives of London are many: infinite variety of delicious world cuisines at all price-points all round the town, any type of bar or pub or club venue you like, any music you like, classic or modern art of the highest quality and mostly free, theatre, world class museums, history, architecture etc etc. You hear 10 different languages on the way to and from work every day, and see people from all cultures around the world. It's indisputably one of the world's great cities (and has been for hundreds of years), and feels it.

[Ti_pin_man]

I'd be keen to sample SS delights, in fact I hope to get to it once the weather brightens and get away from the walls of london.  Just looking for a time in the near future for a crap climber to have a go and for a time when I can fit the boulder mat into the car...

[crimp]

What rocksteady said, plus what monk, jaspersharpe, and me said.

Plus, if it's not for you, you can always leave.

[SA Chris]

I'll admit, I am intrigued by southern sandstone. Why do people think its shit? Though I must qualify this by saying that I've never climbed on anything in England.

I was blatantly trolling when I made the earlier SS comment. It is however probably the softest rock in the UK that gets climbed on regularly; so soft that brushing loosens as much rock as it removes loose stuff. It needs respecting, treating with care and a refinement of technique to climb it. There are some great problems routes though it just takes a bit of getting used to. Try it, you might like it for what it is; a pleasant alternative to the indoor wall on a summers afternoon or evening.

Oh and Font is practically doorstep!

[JohnM]

I moved to London last October and I had massive reservations about it at first.  I thought I would feel trapped and claustrophic in such a big city and that my climbing would take a massive hit.  Career wise it was an excellent move and I enjoy the job I have and so far I have never woken up dreading going to work.  I live in North London near Hampstead and it is a lovely area to live in and has a peaceful feeling to the area whilst still being walking distance from more lively areas like Camden.  I try and walk and cycle everywhere and it is a great way to get to know the city rather than travelling around underground and you can't help but be impressed with some of the historic and modern areas you pass through.

I am mainly into my sport climbing these days and so far the move hasn't really affected me.  I spent every weekend in October climbing at the Tor and went back to Malham for the first time the other weekend.  I have also visited some new crags like Brean which I enjoyed.  I am going to miss my midweek hit that I used to have to N.Wales or the Dales though over spring and summer so I will see how it goes over the next few months.  I have a car down here now so I am going to try and get to Brean/Cheddar and the south coast quite a bit.

Without wanting to hijack the thread can anyone recommend some boulder problems on southern sandstone from 7A+ upwards?  Any must do classics?   

[crimp]

 

Can you clarify what grade system that is in? Southern sandstone grades tend to stick to UK technical numerical grades.

[SA Chris]

I used to to do after work trips there too - train to Reigate where a mate worked, and then drive from there and it was always a bit of a ballache. But better than High Sports in Redhill, which was the only realisitic option back then. Traffic must be a lot worse now.

On that note, best thing I learned for travelling in SE and SW on weekends was either travelling late or early; don't bother leaving London area before 8pm, or get out the door before 6 am. Especially in Summer and holidays.

I also found that you are a lot better with organising things on a weekend too; forecasts are being checked on Wednesday night already, you pack on Thursday night and are at your destination that evening. Shit night sleep and a bit of motivation after making the effort to get there and you can be up and climbing by 9am Saturday. Instead of sitting in Otley Caff until 11 browsing guidebooks still arguing over what crag to go to, and then just going to Almscliff.

[seankenny]

There is Southern Sandstone too - but for me not worth the trip if you live in west London.

That was always the issue for me. I enjoyed some of my trips there but it was always a huge faff. Unless you live in south or east London close to the M25 it is a long drive. From north or west London you could get to the Peak or Bristol in about the same time.

I live in west London, albeit quite far out (near Wembley). SS is 1.5hrs whereas I can be over the Severn Bridge in about 2hrs if I go at a reasonable lick. In theory that should make the Wye a regular haunt, however it seems to suffer worse conditions than you might expect. I'm trying to limit my SS days to under three a year, but sometimes it happens.

The Peak seems to take about 3 hours regardless, I have heard people suggest it can be done in less but never managed this myself.

You have to be a bit committed to do day trips to the Peak and Portland, but I do them fairly regularly throughout the year. With two drivers it's fine, and with three almost pleasant.

[Fiend]

SS is vile. I started my climbing on it and used to live 15 mins cycle from Harrisons, 5 mins drive from Bowles, and even then I regretted going. Greasy slopey sandy rounded top-roping bollox vileness, it even has a funny smell I don't like.

Hope that helps 

[Wipey Why]

So I'm moving down at the beginning of June. Are there any UKBs in London or has everyone left already?

[crimp]

So I'm moving down at the beginning of June. Are there any UKBs in London or has everyone left already?

 

[Falling Down]

We're all chained to our desks and too busy/miserable to look at UKB.

[Jaspersharpe]

To busy using your fancy fold up bike to chat up birds more like.

[TerryLines]

So I'm moving down at the beginning of June. Are there any UKBs in London or has everyone left already?

Welcome

I'm not sure if you've already decided where to live, but to go back to your original question on climbing walls, something to bear in mind is that the Arch in Bermondsey opens at 6.30am on weekdays. It may not suit where you live/work, but if it does, it's feasible to have a 2 hour session, shower there, and then go on to work. There will only be 5/6 other people in the entire place, and they give out free coffee.

[tomtom]

To busy using your fancy fold up bike to chat up birds more like.

:D Have you got some hipster glasses yet FD?

[i.munro]

To busy using your fancy fold up bike to chat up birds more like.

Do you reckon that's going to work? Sounds like  going to a Star Trek convention because of all the girls.

[slackline]

Do you reckon that's going to work? Sounds like  going to a Star Trek convention because of all the girls.

What on earth is wrong with that?

[Falling Down]

To busy using your fancy fold up bike to chat up birds more like.

:D Have you got some hipster glasses yet FD?

Yeah. Cartier 50's style frames.  Bought from Daybell and Choo in SHEFFIELD !

[Falling Down]

To busy using your fancy fold up bike to chat up birds more like.

Do you reckon that's going to work? Sounds like  going to a Star Trek convention because of all the girls.

You missed my tweets last week.  The BromptonFannyMagnet is a paradox that would confound Spock and even Slackers!

[i.munro]

I stand corrected & amazed.

[duncan]

Welcome to That London ypy. I'd offer to meet up but am currently crocked again.

To busy using your fancy fold up bike to chat up birds more like.

If you can't stretch to a Brompton, I can recommend ostentatiously reading a copy the latest Pembroke Guide (Vol. 3 Stackpole and Lydstep) on the tube which resulted in an attractive woman initiating a conversation with me for the first time in about a decade. It wasn't even open at p110 or 118 (buy it and find out for yourself!).

[tomtom]

Welcome to That London ypy. I'd offer to meet up but am currently crocked again.

To busy using your fancy fold up bike to chat up birds more like.

If you can't stretch to a Brompton, I can recommend ostentatiously reading a copy the latest Pembroke Guide (Vol. 3 Stackpole and Lydstep) on the tube which resulted in an attractive woman initiating a conversation with me for the first time in about a decade. It wasn't even open at p110 or 118 (buy it and find out for yourself!).

She only started talking to you because the guy in 50's specs on her other side was boring her to tears about his Brompton

Would a Brompton, Pembroke guide and (I raise you) a puppy be the magic combination?