American Bouldering National Comp (Read 6768 times)

r-man · February 23, 2013, 05:01:33 pm

Some big names, could be fun. Streaming here in 45min - http://lt11.com/tv/

Qualifier replay here
https://new.livestream.com/louderthan11/events/1901311

Teaboy · February 23, 2013, 05:59:11 pm

Is Sierra Blair-Coyle in it again this year?

r-man · February 23, 2013, 07:29:45 pm

Yes. She's climbing now.

r-man · February 23, 2013, 10:28:33 pm

Semi's fairly entertaining - replay still available. Woods and Puccio easily the strongest. Nice interview with Dave Graham @55min about the crossover between plastic and rock. Also interesting - he mentions that he'll be trying Jumbo Love with Daniel Woods in April.

Good quality footage and decent commentary. It's great that this standard of climbing webcast is becoming more frequent.

abarro81 · February 23, 2013, 10:41:52 pm

Quote from: r-man on February 23, 2013, 10:28:33 pm

It's great that this standard of climbing webcast is becoming more frequent.

dontfollowme · February 24, 2013, 01:40:13 pm

Is it just the womens semi final that is available on replay?

Ignore, it's in the same replay.

Richie Crouch · February 24, 2013, 01:54:51 pm

Really enjoyed being able to view high quality feeds on an iPad for a change instead of shit flash that constantly goes down (i.e. in the World Cup broadcasts). The commentating and camera work was a good step forward too.

Looking forward to watching the finals footage as I am avoiding seeing the results! If someone could post a link when it comes online without giving it away that would be great

r-man · February 26, 2013, 08:50:37 pm

Finals vid now up.

http://new.livestream.com/louderthan11/ABS14Nationals/videos

As they said, the more people watch these things, the better the chances they can keep doing them. So spread that link around.

r-man · February 26, 2013, 09:37:10 pm

The first 30min of that vid is highlights. Weird. Action starts after that.

dontfollowme · February 26, 2013, 10:32:41 pm

The best climbing comp webcast I've ever seen. LT11 know their stuff, "an Asana moment" thing aside.

r-man · February 27, 2013, 09:50:37 am

Yes, it was good - up there with the coverage of the world championships in paris last year (though that had non climbing commentators). Would be nice to see something of this quality from the uk.

Figure of 4 move on problem 4! Always amuses me.

Durbs · April 26, 2013, 02:00:16 pm

This'll be one of those comps that no Americans do so also don't compete in the World Cup will it? (From IFSC thread...)

r-man · April 26, 2013, 02:20:13 pm

Huh? Can't make sense of that sentence.

Alex Puccio competes in it, and is a regular in the World Cups.

Durbs · April 26, 2013, 02:27:31 pm

Sorry yes, that was a really badly written sentance...

From the World Cup thread, when discussing the lack of Americans (Alex P the exception)

"In the US the focus is on the outdoors above all else. We're competitive for sure but there simply isn't the psyche for climbing on plastic and climbing indoors is viewed as training for "the real stuff"."

Where I responded that there was a healthy comp scene in the US, but they didn't seem interested in the WC...

krymson · April 26, 2013, 03:30:30 pm

If it's American, Americans care about it. If it's not, we don't. That would be one way to sum things up.

The IFSC World Cup has one round in the US, but the other rounds are all in places most Americans have never heard of and don't care much about. so it's not huge on the radar.

I think I've learned more about European geography following the ifsc world cup and reading about climbing history than i ever did in 12 years of school... and 4.5 years of college!

Durbs · April 26, 2013, 04:07:34 pm

So do you think in the US round of the WC we'll see the likes of Woods & Robinson enter? (And Sasha?)

They do travel though; Font, Ticino, Norway, Sweden... Just not to compete.
Just seems odd as your stereotypical American is generally very competitive, but in many sports not on the world scene, possible exception being the Olympics (which apparently weren't that much of a big deal over there?).

Do you think it's just a case of geography (and required finance), or scared of a little competition?

tim palmer · April 26, 2013, 04:29:42 pm

Setting in american comps does look very different to the world cup, alot more basic, jumping between holds

rodma · April 27, 2013, 08:51:28 am

Quote from: krymson on April 26, 2013, 03:30:30 pm

The IFSC World Cup has one round in the US, but the other rounds are all in places most Americans have never heard of

Like Toronto?

Muenchener · April 27, 2013, 09:12:54 am

Can somebody please explain to me what "asana moment" means in a climbing context?

krymson · April 27, 2013, 10:02:27 am

Quote from: rodma on April 27, 2013, 08:51:28 am

Quote from: krymson on April 26, 2013, 03:30:30 pm

The IFSC World Cup has one round in the US, but the other rounds are all in places most Americans have never heard of

Like Toronto?

That's in Maine, right?

r-man · April 27, 2013, 10:05:55 am

Hmm, I'm sure the cost must be an issue, but perhaps another reason for lack of Americans in the World Cups is that the top dogs (Daniel Woods etc.) have only had limited success on the plastic, while they can do amazing things on the rock. Most people in that position would go for option 2 - climb amazing 8C's all round the world...

I must admit, i do enjoy watching the jumping around and big displays of power in the American comps. Be nice if there was a little more of this mixed into the World Cups.