[TomP]

I've been sampling the delights of Whitehouses of late. It's a quality little venue with some superb problems on solid grit.

Added what I think is a new problem/link:
Starting holds as for Hercules, which branches out to the arete to finish up Rageh Omaar. Instead of doing that go direct through the roof to meet Fat Punters Roof. It's quite a span and getting the heel to stick is pretty tricky.

It might scrape in at 8a as I found it harder that the other 7c+s there but it might end up being hard 7c+.

Amazing how many high quality and hard problems one tiny outcrop of grit can produce!

Here's a little vid of Second Base and a couple of others:

[turnipturned]

Nice one Tom.

Whats your beta for Hercules?

Second base chipless?

[TomP]

Haha, quite hard to avoid the chips, plus fat punters has got a massive chip too! Suppose this opens a few more llink possibilities, like into whitefinger etc.
For hercules, I toe hook arete and drop rh into the pinch and bust out to the good hold with oh to join arete. Really keen for the place at the mo.

[Monolith]

Nice vid T-Pec. Second Base looks awesome! Very Swizzy.

[Adi Gill]

Nice one Tom , like the donkey

[Greg C]

Nice one Tom, like the vid.

[turnipturned]

Haha, quite hard to avoid the chips, plus fat punters has got a massive chip too

Yeah just do it but as for 'Fit Punters roof' (i.e. avoiding big square jug) surely that would be solid 8a.

For hercules, I toe hook arete and drop rh into the pinch and bust out to the good hold with oh to join arete

Nice one. Would like to do that, try it next time!

[andy_e]

How do you do fit punter's? Straight up campus from the lip-jugs or with a toe out right where you'd have it for fat punter's?

[turnipturned]

Nah Fit Punters you completely miss out the massive square cut jug. Basically, the hard move is latching the hold on the lip, then you campus up and put your heel next to your hand.

[andy_e]

Where do you start for fit punter's then? I assumed it would start from the jugs on the lip as for fat punter's, going up left to the lion-bar edge instead of campussing up right for the square jug?

[turnipturned]

Starts as for Bush Bully... i think

[TomP]

Interesting. Never heard of that but makes sense. There's other stuff I'd like to get stuck into there before the full on eliminates though

[uptown]

Good work Tom, I'd tried the direct start to Fat Punters but without the Hercules footwork. I was shocked when Andy said you'd done it as I reckoned high end 8's that way. It'll be an amazing one mover if it does ever go.

Fit Punters starts on the lip holds and eliminates the huge square chip on Fat Punters (as Dan says) - two methods, campus or heel up to the right. It's about 7a/b and good fun, especially if you start linking into it from the BB start: Beat about the Bush is about 7c+ plinthless. There are several other quality links like this that I didn't put in the guide too.

Good to hear you're feeling the WH vibe - it takes several visits to really get the feel I found. Sucks I can't give you a 'tour' this season.

[sjw]

Great knowledge uptown, would love to see your definitive Whitehouses topo.

Beat about the Bush is about 7c+ plinthless.

I was wondering if this had been done, so silly of me to think that you'd have missed it!

[andy_e]

Maybe I should do the topo now I've been awarded the title of guardian of Nidderdale by you sj...

[uptown]

It's a locals crag. No need for a topo so long as Andy can pass on the knowledge. 

[andy_e]

I just wish I'd done as many of them as you! I'll keep plugging away...

[uptown]

10 years of my plugging Andy, you've got youth on your side!

[andy_e]

Another one shall be removed from the list tomorrow.