Devon Sent, Bovey woods (Read 10325 times)

andyd · February 15, 2013, 03:27:34 pm

Has anyone been on this recently? I'm fancying a go this weekend but last time I saw it it had a substantial amount of dead leaves and branches at the top and a dubious wet streak. It looks an amazing line nonetheless.
If any locals are keen, pm me if you fancy padding it out. I'm sure I can get a pass and I'm taking my lamp just in case.

Steamboat Stello · February 15, 2013, 04:01:25 pm

Not got any info on recent conditions and not around this weekend but I had a look at this last year and I'm well keen to have a go sometime. Let me know next time your going, I've got quite a few pads plus an airpad. Unless of course you do it in a session!

BiggaG · February 15, 2013, 04:55:35 pm

I was there a few weeks back and it was the cleanest and driest thing in the woods!

andyd · February 15, 2013, 05:12:17 pm

Nice one. Think I'll give it a go.

granticus · February 15, 2013, 07:20:39 pm

Still waiting for a ground up ascent of this, a few are trying but no joy yet. Get to it.

Kingy · February 15, 2013, 08:14:47 pm

SA Chris · February 15, 2013, 09:34:46 pm

That looks like a great bit of climbing

greywolf · February 16, 2013, 01:55:09 pm

was on it yesterday funnily, top out was a little wet but still do-able, only had about ten goes before my tips were bleeding though! good luck

punkpunk · February 16, 2013, 03:10:55 pm

Ye I had a go on this in the autumn, proper sharp

Proud line though...well worth more attention.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

granticus · February 18, 2013, 12:53:35 pm

Quote from: Kingy on February 15, 2013, 08:14:47 pm

This ground up? Or did you top rope the finish like everyone else?

Kingy · February 18, 2013, 08:03:29 pm

I had a sneaky look on a gri-gri. I was struggling to work out the last crux span right onto the sandstone vein below the top. You have to climb Font 7b/+ every time to get up there and then only have a split second to improvise a sequence before a 12 foot downward plummet!

Dave Westlake · February 20, 2013, 06:48:56 pm

Dont think anyone has top roped it, like ted i had a look via ab-ing down it. It isnt really a highball so i don't understand why there seems to be so much fuss about doing it 'ground up'. Its a boulder problem ffs, the only reason people use a rope to work the top is to save skin.

Good video btw ted, totally different sequence to me!

andyd · February 20, 2013, 07:06:13 pm

Quote from: Dave Westlake on February 20, 2013, 06:48:56 pm

I don't understand why there seems to be so much fuss about doing it 'ground up'.

I didn't get on it in the end,but

Next time I'm down there I'd be happy to pull on with two pads and no spot.

granticus · February 21, 2013, 10:18:14 am

Quote

Dont think anyone has top roped it, like ted i had a look via ab-ing down it. It isnt really a highball so i don't understand why there seems to be so much fuss about doing it 'ground up'. Its a boulder problem ffs, the only reason people use a rope to work the top is to save skin.

Chill your boots Mr W. I am not doing down any of the ascents so far, the fact that so few have done the problem would indicate that those that have done, deserve credit for being brilliant climbers.

'Have a look', 'try the moves', 'feel the holds', 'top rope' that's all just semantics Dave, point is so far everyone has resorted to using a rope to 'have a look' as that section seems to have some hard stopper moves that are difficult to read.

Doing it ground up, would have to do, like anything, with someone's personal ethics and motivation to climb it in a purer style. Surely you can accept that, it would be damned impressive if someone climbed it in the ground up style, especially given the sharp holds and the difficulty of the top section.

There are some good climbers trying to do the problem ground up, so there are those that feel it is worth making some fuss about. I am also certain that there are climbers out there that could on-sight the problem and if that were too happen, it would be worth making a fuss about.

I know Bovey's not grit, but when Careless Torque eventually had some ground up ascents a fuss was rightly made about it and I don't see why we shouldn't make a fuss if someone eventually does DS from the floor.

alaan · March 22, 2013, 06:11:21 pm

Visiting the shire for a few days, but what are the chances of this being dry in the next day or two, considering the torrential rain today? Am I right in thinking there's a drainage streak down it?! In fact, what are the chances of any granite being dry in the next day or two?! In particular the wave on Bonehill and Jungle VIP/ King of the swingers at Burrator? Local knowledge appreciated. Ta!

Al

JohnM · March 22, 2013, 06:37:14 pm

I thought there were severe weather warnings and flooding forecast for the SW!?

Oldmanmatt · March 22, 2013, 06:52:00 pm

It is seriously pissing down here!

It would have to be damn hot tomorrow to dry anything out for this weekend.

alaan · March 22, 2013, 08:59:40 pm

Yup, there wasn't a speed fast enough for my windscreen wipers as I passed Exeter. Next three days look rain-free, however, so I'm relying on the moor's legendary feats of evaporation (there is, after all, quite a bit of wind...) to provide just a single session on the boulders...Just wondered how quick drying some of the blocs are, since I've not visited Burrator or Bovey before. Maybe I'm being over optimistic!

ben · March 22, 2013, 09:47:14 pm

You're gonna need quick drying blocs up in the wind.. I'd goto bonehill/saddle/hound tor if I were you (or combeshead if on the plymouth side) rather than bovey or burrator

Oldmanmatt · March 22, 2013, 09:49:54 pm

Bone hill, more likely to get out of the wind...

alaan · March 23, 2013, 08:17:02 pm

Well, Bonehill was lost in fog and mizzle and, I fear, will remain that way for a day or two, however, lakeside boulders at Burrator were, against all probability, dry!

andyd · March 23, 2013, 09:02:21 pm

Quote from: alaan on March 23, 2013, 08:17:02 pm

Well, Bonehill was lost in fog and mizzle and, I fear, will remain that way for a day or two, however, lakeside boulders at Burrator were, against all probability, dry!

...yet massively disappointing?

alaan · March 24, 2013, 09:03:54 am

Well, maybe it was because I had resigned myself to a run and just went to have a nose only to find (almost) totally dry rock, so I was pleasantly surprised - Jungle VIP is a brilliant problem, and the lower boulder was slightly more involving than I had suspected!Nice setting too...

Steamboat Stello · March 27, 2013, 10:28:08 am

I'm nowhere near in the form to have a go at Devon Sent GU but has anyone got an idea as to what Bovey will be like this weekend? Weather looks too brutal for the moor so thought I might head here. Happy to spot someone on Deven Sent if they fancy coming out and showing me how to find a few other easier problems! Got so lost last time I was there.

tomrainbow · March 27, 2013, 10:35:43 pm

It will be great this weekend - conditions yesterday were not far off perfect. I'll be there on Monday (meeting some friends at Long Wall at 10am). Feel free to join us if you like.

Tom