[csl]

Goals for Feb.
Purple 7b on 45º
Density Bouldering http://climbstrong.wordpress.com/2010/06/09/density-training/ twice a week
Strength sessions twice a week
Get outside twice 1/2

Mon- Did comp as per mondays post. Then managed 2 V6's and a load of easier stuff.
Tue- nothing
Wed- Cuttings - Fell off the warm up... oh dear. Then had one shite go on Modern Nightmare, rested a bit, dogged up it. Then fell literally from the chains first redpoint, quite surprising with my current fitness! Was totally wasted on the next redpoint. Did a 6a+ afterwards. Good day out!
Thur- Nothing
Fri- KK Bouldering. On reflection V6's on monday were probably V5, although some people at the wall think not. Repeated them both first go. Did manage another V6/7 3rd go and came close to another v7 on the 45º.
Sat- Density bouldering. Set one - Purple V5, Red V5, Pink V4, Yellow V3 - x3 in 20 minutes. 20 minutes rest. Pink v4, Pink v3, Grey V3, Yellow V3 x19 in 20 minutes. Felt pretty wasted by the end! Will mix these up next density session for two more even sets.
Sun- Got up at 7 to run a massive Half Marathon PB of 1:30:12! 9 minutes faster than my race in october, and totally on my own. So pleased! Now off to work...

Had a good week, felt better than expected at the cuttings. Nice to be out despite the lack of ticks. Feeling strong in the wall again and very happy with my running today!

[tomtom]

2013 totals:
Outdoor: 13   
Indoor:2 
Training 3

The Keel.
Its been a funny week - lots of work, meetings and teaching has meant every day this week has been tightly scheduled with little wiggle room for anything, let alone climbing. So on Tuesday - after finishing a meeting at 6:45 I wandered down to RockCity (Hulls #1 climbing venue - Hulls only climbing venue) to go through the motions to keep in condition. I was also interested as they're building a mezzanine level across from the moon wall to the lead wall to double (or more) the bouldering area (which is good) though they are also including a sloping (30 deg) padded floor in one section??? Not really sure I fancy that but see how it pans out. Anyway, it was good to see Lee, James and Rob (big Rob) down there who I'd not seem for a while - and after recovering from the £9 entry charge (thats the day rate - if I pay £10 a year its only £8.50....) I warmed up and climbed uselessly for 80-90 min. Its only the second time I've climbed on plastic this year and man I found it hard. I dont think the problems were especially hard - more that I was just not used to the style of problems on plastic (or the style there I guess..). I didnt climb anything harder than 6B and a couple of the nicer problems that challenged me I just gave up on instead of persevering... Hey ho, its all mileage and it was after a long busy day - and there are just days like that when you climb poorly...

I was struggling to find a window to get back to the Keel.. I had not been to the Cliff all of the week before - and I needed to get back to the problem before it started to drift away from me and with it the muscle memory and conditioning that I had been building up over the last two or three months (in particular!). I had some free time on wednesday, but the forecast was not great.. Thursday was free - except for a class in the morning and I had to give a seminar at 2... which would mean leaving at 3, arrive at the cliff on rock for 4:30... hmm marginal.. I sent around an email and managed to move my seminar to 1:30 - it went really well - and at 2:25 I was running down the stairs to the car and away.. Hull to Almscliff passed in 1 hour 15 min, which is not bad for the afternoon (I hit a bit of school traffic near harewood) and I arrived at the Cliff at 3:45. I figured I had light until 5 - maybe a little later - and had the lantern and headtorch in the car.

Conditions were good - no wind, 5 degrees. Thermal top and T shirt with the odd down moment in between. The rock was cold, and a little greasy, almost glassy - but certainly climbable. Nai had been telling me to wait for the right moment - and time limit wise it wasnt ideal, but was as good as any. There was no-one else there - I waved to a chap coming down as I arrived but mine was the only car. Perfect. Its good having people around, but its become such a personal duel? battle? interaction? - more of a relationship I guess with the Keel that I really wanted to be on my own if or when I finally did it.

I warmed up on the usual boulders near three swings - which was a luxury not afforded to me the last two visits due to the snow and I then migrated over to the Keel. Ach - chalk had run out - completely, nothing in the bag - so I had to trot back to the car, get some from the boot and trot back up the hill again (more time wasted!). Still, I was certainly warm - and I pulled on moved well - smoothly - linking the underside controlled out to the chip - my core felt rigid a board as I popped up for the pocket and straight in. Cut loose, bring the right knee up to the little notch under the nose, balance, bring the left foot up and - my right arm gives up and I plop off. Really surprised I was so smooth on the first go - normally I think my best attempts are tries 4-6 (or so) and it felt more like my right arm and fingers were not warmed up enough to hang the pocket enough to bring my left foot up. So I deadhung the pocket a few times, practiced bringing my foot up and got my shoulder used to the 'wrench the socket out' feeling Anyway, just as well it didnt go then - as I hadnt set my camera up! I kind of suspected I might send it when not filming it - so hadnt!!

So, go number 2 - and here it is:

Most of you have probably seen this on the YYFY thread - but I thought I'd write up what I was thinking at each time and place throughout the clip. Its interesting editing the clip - that after setting up the camera, I wandered back, looked at the problem for about a min, cleaned a couple of holds, felt the pocket again and spent a couple of minutes getting my shoes on and taking my jacket off.. Rather than just rushing at it, I relaxed, took my time - felt my own space if that makes sense.. (!!!) anyway..

0-5: Smooth and flow I was telling myself. After my epic session at Thorn last weekend talking to myself seemed to work, so this was my mantra through the first part
11: sketchy reach out for the chip - This all felt a bit sketchy - the first try was really smooth, but this one took a bit of control and correction
16: Foot went really well into the slot, slightly shakey reach out for the chip with the LH followed by
20: A fair bit of chip shuffling - I didnt feel that happy on the holds but toughen up and carry on.
23: Good lunge for the pocket - body kept really straight until the final stretch for the pocket
25: RF nearly stayed in the slot - and my RH wasnt in the pocket very well, I cut loose and udged twice to get the RH in the pocket really well
28: Failed knee up attempt - keep the cool and calmly paste it into the right spot
31: Foot on
32: Matched pocket. At this point (further than I've got before on one go) I'm starting to thing I've got this now - feeling calm, in control and on top of it.
37: Nice controlled sideways twist into the step up - feeling good and solid
40-45: I'm stood up. This is the moment when its really easy to tell myself that I've done it. Really I know I have, but I'm telling myself to be calm, you're not up yet. I think you can hear me mutter "chill" to myself. I think and explore the holds around me. Quite odd really - I've not gone into trad climbing thought mode - something I've not done for ages. Taking time, thinking, calming down sensing out whats around me and what to use..
53: Ignoring the nice smear on the arete I chalked earlier to stand up on I put my right foot in the far safer looking pocket, that leaves me off balance so I have to so some shuffly step up thing - reach over for the top and its all over. I did hug the rock, and gave it a good pat on both sides - like how you see a jockey patting the neck of a horse after a race. After all, the cliff had paid her part in letting me get up

So. All done! Second go! Still lots of light left! Interesting feelings.. Not so much a yes - get in - punch the air type stuff (as had felt at Thorn last week) but more a really solid satisfaction. I sat down, had a cup of tea and watched the sheep mooch about the field below. Its been a satisfaction thats grown over the past few days - from looking at the film again, from congratulation messages on the YYFY thread and on Twitter - and I can replay it in my head when I want to (which is oddly really calming!). Very content It had taken (I now know) about 18 months since I first tried it and 20 sessions. Probably a couple more, but 20 visits just for this problem. In a funny way, it was even more satisfying that I had to correct 2 or 3 times up the problem. Really, it could have been sent a month ago if I had got every part perfectly - in one sequence - but I didnt, I had to work it this time - I had to be better than just playing the stats. It felt as if I could have got back on it and sent it again - but I didnt

I'd really like to thank everyone here for their messages of well done, and support during the last few months - its really helped to keep the motivation going - as well as giving me the confidence to let it go for a while and come back to it better and stronger! Thank you all.

Its interesting musing over motivation and mental preparation before this. TommyZtone forwarded me a Jerry Moffat clip a few weeks back (I think I talked about it in earlier posts) where he talks about visualising yourself finishing the problem and other pretty punchy motivational thoughts. For me this really didnt work - I now know that I need to be calm (not angry or agressive) smooth in motion and free of most other thoughts - this is my 'zone' if you like. Last weekends Thorn trip gave me that lesson. Jerry was certainly right when he said its not over until you're at the top though!

So what next (part 1)? Well, there was still light left - and it seemed a shame to just go home, so I popped up to the upper level and went and did Dreamland (my favourite Cliff problem), DWR, Crux low traverse - nearly got Ste's LH from standing (a lanky bugbear of mine) and then got shut down by the Belly Slap well, I gave it a good go a couple of times and then it really was too dark! (weather excuses!). Went and sat on the top of low man, had another cuppa and trundled off to Manchester very contentedly.

So what next (part 2)? Whats the next project? Well I have lots of unfinished business in the Peak. WSS... Where Beagles Dare, Beachball and Dick Williams are all problems I've been really close on and should get done. Suavito looks superb and Nai has been pointing me in the direction of Brass Monkeys that looks like its my kind of lankfest body tension of a problem...  At the Cliff? Theres the 7B's on the face of the Virgin.. Ste's from Standing and Ste's LH (get my crimp on..), Matts roof is worth a good go. And of course Jess' roof... though I think I need to frequent climbing walls and get better at overhanging lock moves on small holds before I go back to that...

And the rest of the week? Well, I seem to have contracted level 1 of stage 2 Tomflu this weekend - which meant I didnt go out on Saturday (where the Cliff seemed to be the only place dry!) and today its been raining.. I've done a couple of TGU's but low level cold has made me feel a bit lazy. I think I probably deserve a couple of days off

[fried]

Outdoors - 0

This week has mostly consisted of running around Paris at rush hour buying bits of my new kitchen, trying to find a wardrobe and putting stuff in boxes. My internet connection came back on for 1 day and then went down again, so I'm back to phone surfing. There's no food in the house, nothing to cook it with anyway. Because the internet doesn't work there's no TV or phone.

I have a huge backlog of 80s climbing uploads to catch up on that I can't stream and I can't even watch the epic 'keel'. Nothing to do but wait...

Sunday - The third stage of a repaint at my wall means loads of new stuff, lots of steep easyish stuff which I tend to be lazy with. Plus a few 6A/B problems to play on. Feeling fresh. Give me my keys.

Weight was down below 75kg at some point in the week probably freak weather conditions.

And it's snowing again.

[rich d]

Mon to we'd bit of core and a few pull ups
Thurs stayed in Milton Keynes with work, did a couple of hours at big rock with a dreadful head ache
Frid lager
Sat lager and wine - what happened to the coonies?
Sun  lager rugby union then league - what happened to good coonies 2?

Got a full day pass next Sunday so will no doubt be pissing it down in the peak! It will be dry at some stage for the starting of my siege on beachball.

[Muenchener]

STG: Stop being ill & get back into something resembling regular training.
MTG (2013): Frankenjura VII onsight; Alpine multipitch VI; Welsh trad E2
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

Met up a couple of times with a new group of climbing/training partners from a German climbing forum. I like my Wednesday night DAV group, but work, family & illness have meant I haven't been getting there regularly enough lately and I need a fallback option.

M: Yoga & a few sets of pressups
T: Wall, Gilching. Checking out new climbing/training partners. Some system board exercises & a few routes (6a+ 6a+ 6a+ 6b)
W:
T:
F:
S: Journey to check out a new bouldering wall, Blochütte in Augsburg. Was ok but not so inspiring that I will be making the away trip regularly. And climbing on a wall with all brand new holds is like a manicure with a belt sander.
S: Yoga, pressups, core.

[shark]

Thanks csl

11.7-10 (11.7-10 last week)

Mon. 
Tues. Eve.Assisted 1arm pullups on BM slot. Bit more progress. Weighted deadhangs. Upped to 47.5kg(10,8 and 7secs). At Foundry did 3 sets of touches. Arms felt wrecked.
Weds. Noon. Fingery endurance session on systems board. Felt tired. Better 2nd set than last time.   
Thurs.   
Fri. eatswood with Duncan.Noon. OK temps. Just couldn't get into it. Moves felt easy enough but head , mind and body in wrong place. Bizarre. Got thru to near the end on last go but fingers were numb by time reached the rail before that couldnt get to kneebar.   
Sat. AM. Park run with Poppy. PB for her and the boys.
Sun. Midday. Debated whether to do this session. Managed to equal assisted one arm work from tuesday. Upped weight to 50kg. Big fuck up. 3,3 and 3 secs.

Seem to have hit a wall this week.

Fly to Chorro weds eve to climb with biscuit. 17° there at the moment. First Euro sport trip since Oct 2011. Should be ace - hope I climb well.

[cheque]

STG: Go out rock climbing
MTG: 7b, 7B and E3 in 2013

M- Rest. Planned to make up for largely inactive weekend with a Depot visit but feeling a bit rough. Uh-oh.
T- Ill.
W- Ill.
T- Not Ill! 3.5 hour Notts Depot sesh in evening- did 18 easiest pink comp problems, tried new circuit board circuits and did one of remaining two red problems. Not climbing brilliantly but fun to climb again. Most importantly finger strength feels good and despite not taping finger for fist time in months, had no problems with it.
F- Feeling wrecked. Rest.
S- Had hoped to make dawn raid to Curbar and put Gorilla Warfare to bed. Wet weather and general feeling of fuckedness when alarm went off put paid to that. Two hour Notts Depot sesh in evening- climbed well and did remaining red and two more pink problems.
S- 3.5 hour Notts depot sesh. One new pink problem, lots of general pottering. Introduced less experienced mates to concepts of endurance and core training- some more keen than others. Ended up taping finger again after demonstrating crimpy problem before warming up properly.  Hopefully not bad.

After only three weeks of max deadhangs, I'm seeing improvements in finger strength.  Ironically this week I didn't do any but I'll get back on it in the week.

[nai]

Still feeling a bit rough after the previous week's cold and still have a tweaky elbow so avoiding the fingerboard.
Decided to start logging my core sessions, haven't done previously but might be kidding myself that I think I'm doing more than I actually am.

M - Rivelin - clunky, tried Purple Haze but was could hardly string two moves together and couldn't suss the crux at all.  Faded quickly
T - 20 mins core (planks & dishes)
W - 30 mins core (planks & dishes)
T - Rowtor - climbed badly again, closest on Kermit Arete, lots of small moves on poor holds & Blood Falls.

F - had reams of paperwork and chores to do but was sure I could get one of the problems done and couldn't resist.  It was a bit greener than yesterday and BF a bit sandy so I decided on KA.  Struggled to get going but once on the problem it went ok - I sussed how to get the footjam in right.... reached a high rugosity, crimped like mad.... brought my left hand over for the pinch.... thought to myself that this was it, this was the go.... then found myself back on the mats confused, I'd pulled the hold off. Went straight home feeling ashamed & very sorry for myself, what a twat. Fortunately it's not the main hold for that move but easier one for shorter folk to reach so I may have diminished a few folks chances, my own included.

S - 340kg TGUs (new max weight of 16kg), new PB 82kg deadlifts x 3
S - 30 mins core (planks, dishes & 1.5 leg levers)

S

[tommytwotone]

LTG: Font 7b

M - Gym after work, usual KB workout with some additional core stuff thrown in. Cut short by the arrival / startup of a cheesy 1990's "House" DJ in the gym playing what appeared to be the 1994 Ministry Of Sound Annual at 200dB.
T - London late afternoon, good introductory session at Biscuit in the evening, then got to hotel to find I'd been upgraded to a suite for free! 
W - Nowt, went to the BANFF film tour thing in Leeds in the evening
T - 5am start to oversee software release on the project I'm on. Knackered for rest of day and eve, sacked planned wall session and went to bed at 9pm.
F - lie-in followed by very stressful day.
S - log-out from the weather in contrast to the good forecasts I'd been seeing in the week. Went back to sleep and headed to the wall when perhaps I should have persevered and gone to Almscliff.
S - nowt.

[duncan]

STG - do some climbing, any climbing

Week 155
M - short run
T -
W - Biscuit - Bouldering. Briefly tried 10 Blacks as warm up.  Wrist still tweaky.
T -
F - 
S - 
S - 

Week 156
M - S - 

Can't remember feeling this unwell for 10+ years. Not ventured out of the house all week. On the up side I have lost 2.5kg and the wrist is getting the rest it probably needed. Onwards and upwards...

[Duma]

STG - Wrist rehab stuff, run regularly, get in shape for MTG
MTG - Peak + font before spring, if I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - TCA before first of night shifts. short session, but fair bit of work - the schools comp was just finishing when I arrived, so played on the woody for a bit until the crowds cleared - didn't manage to repeat the crux move of the prob I made up last fri, but linked to that point from ground. Then tried the three hard probs from the schools comp - didn't manage to flash any, but still happy to get them all second go as all are low 7's I'd say. Also got up one of the more unlikley whites - three hand and one foot move up an arete before the barn door takes you too far from the first real hold on it - very satisfying. then night shift with toothache - not fun.
T - slept badly, next night shift, toothache still.
W - Got up just after lunch to allow quick session before picking up daughter from preschool - pretty sleep deprived, but climbed ok still - worked out most of the moves on two whites with Rory, and did another that I'd assumed would be proper hard, turned out good skin for the nasty crimp made it mid 7 or so. Nother night, mouth still sore.
T -  Meant to run but couldn't face getting up. final night shift, toothache still...
F - nowt, sleep till lunch, drag myself out of bed to try and reset body clock, personal life completely falls apart, just yr average fri eve.
S - Moving stuff back to my flat, climbed in the afternoon, bit numb from it all really, but prob good therapy... nothing new done, but worked some hard moves and improved beta on a couple of probs (read: stole others sequences) second half of session on woody with Joe and Tim, good to try some moves with others there for psyche, this woody is going to be good for me. Oh and saw Omar15 of this parish for first time in ages  . Drank too much whisky in the eve.
S - Took daughter to wall, no climbing for me but pretty hectic, herding a three year old is a lot easier midweek at lunchtime than on a rainy sun afternoon. Doing some reverse wrist curls while writing this as token wrist strengthening work

69-68kg - actually weighed in at below 68 on Thurs, so this is going well, despite failure on running front this week.

Oh, and Rich, I think it's connies rather than coonies - the latter sounds a little dodgy non? 

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: E**tw**d Travese, F8a... Sort out finger.

M: Nowt.
T: Short assisted 1 arm session.
W: Bouldering and AeroCap @ The Works. Did some stretching too.
T: Rest.
F: E**tw**d with Simon - Good session, bit cold and glassy, skin was sore, I split a tip early on and felt a bit tired but got into kneebar a number of times and from kneebar to end (with v-little rest) so good training value (AnCap?). Need to make the move after the kneebar a bit higher percentage as I can't get the heel to work and the toehook I use needs to be very precise to work properly. Experimented with using the intermediate sloper before matching the hold before the jug which could well be a goer... It's becoming a war of attrition but I'm enjoying the process, still... Finger felt good tho!
S: Took boy to the works - dint do owt.
S: 8-9mile fell run in horizontal snowstorm - epic! Ran from Ringinglow out to the Burbage valley and over the tops of the tors. Was just me and my dog, saw maybe 5 other folk the whole time; think I might have finally managed to tire the daft mutt out! She was well subdued in the van on the way home YYFY;-)

This week: AeroCap/AnCap, actually do some weights. Off Snoooowwwboarding next Saturday!

:D

[Luke Owens]

STG - Font 7A and F7b
MTG - Font 7A+ and F7c
LTG - Font 7B+/7C and F8a

Monday - Max Weighted Hangs -
Progressive Set - 7.5kg - 10kg - 13.5kg - 10 sec hangs, 3 min rest between
Main Set - 15kg x 5 - 10 sec hangs 3 mins rest between - Personal Best!
30 Minute consistant core workout
Realised after the session I'd strained my left hand middle finger A2 pulley... worked out this was due to twisting my half crimp grip outwards when trying my hardest to stay on... Bollocks!

Tuesday - Oswestry Wall - Wasn't too optimistic due to pulley strain, felt fine to climb on just a little sore. Repeated a V5/6 and a V6/7 and helped out my girlfriend on loads of V1's, well psyched to see her get up loads of problems when she was convinced she couldn't do, great to see!

Wednesday - 30 minutes core and hip flexor stretching

Thursday - Rest and hip flexor stretching

Friday - Rest and hip flexor stretching

Saturday - Against all odds I was determined to find dry rock despite it pouring down the night before and all of Saturday. Went to Pantymwyn every problem was wet apart from half of Robert Duvall (V6).

Worked the moves and manged to link a lot of it, confident it'll go in good conditions.

Went onto Ruthin Escarpment, the V7 I wanted to try was half dry. Hand to dry holds between every attempt and it was seeping as soon as I pulled on...

Managed to do all the moves so I reckon it's on, really keen to get back on it when it's dry!

Sunday - 30 minutes core and hip flexor stretching.

Finger strain is feeling better every day and have been using ice water for 30 minutes every day since the strain. Confident it'll be OK soon.

Bit of a set back as I'll have to knock the weighted hangs on the head though. Happy I made good gains though.

Going to start a repeater cycle on the fingerboard in a week or so.

[andy_e]

Right, I've fallen overboard of the Club Powerboat and had been too fat and weak after Christmas to swim after it to climb back aboard until now.

STG: Only Half The Story, Under Rumsfeld, Ian's Traverse, Ripple Effect, get 200 points in 6 out of 8 ClimbNE league rounds (in other words, score at least 200 in both of the last two rounds)
MTG: 7C again, Hunter's Roof, 1-4-7
LTG: 7C+ - perhaps To Me To You or Heaven In Your Hands

Previous few weeks: A few trips out, mostly to Brimham and Whitehouses, with trips to Eavestone too. Starting to feel a bit stronger and gradually getting back a grit knack. Managed to tick off a few low 7s (Peshmurga, Get a Grip) and got close to a few harder problems (Only Half the Story, Under Rumsfeld, Ian's Traverse) which I know I'll tick off soon. Performing well indoors too, getting fairly decent scores in the league.

M: Rest
T: Rest
W: ClimbNE, Barrans comp problems. A good set, but after last week I've got two problems left to do and one of them is hard and the other is a nasty silly move. Spend the session having fun and not trying too hard on the comp problems.
T: ClimbNE, did 43 problems in 25 minutes to warm up but it was a silly idea as I felt ill for the rest of the session! Repeated a few of the harder comp problems though but didn't get any further on the last two.
F: Rest
S: Set off to meet sjw and others in Pateley Bridge for a coffee and some scheme-forming. Had a coffee, bought two fresh, still-warm pork, apple and black pudding pies, then headed up to Guisecliff to check for dryness. Unfortunately the dryness was lacking so we resorted to Whitehouses. The usual routine of warming up on the end of Only Half The Story was undertaken, followed by a blast on Rageh Omaar a couple of laps and then Peshmurga. I worked the crux section of Only Half The Story a few times (it felt a bit smeggy on the left hand-holds) and then went for the redpoint. First time around I missed the last right-hand hold on the lip before the crux section and fell off. Second time around, I got into the crux sequence but the holds felt smeggy and I couldn't make the right hand slap up. Third time around I got into the crux sequence again and got the position to do the cut-loose-and-swap-heel-sides so you throw your right heel on over to the right. I'd done this move once or twice that day in isolation so once I got there this time I knew it could be done. The left-hand hold felt a bit greasy so I opted for the sharp-edged sloper next to it, pulled hard on it  to get my body up for the cut-loose, cut loose and swung the right heel on to anywhere on the lip on the right. It nearly didn't go on but with a bit of fighting I smacked in just above the lip, giving me enough pull to pull my body over and then bump the heel again to the good ledge. Match hands, right hand in to the good sloper by my heel, bump my heel further right along the ledge, left hand up, right hand up, bump heel, right hand over the top and find the boss, change right foot to a toe on the lip and stand up over the top, just as rehearsed so many times whilst warming up. Dans le sac. It gets 7C in the SDunning guide and more importantly on yorkshiregrit, but it gets 7B+ in the new guide and is probably on the borderline between the two. Still happy to have ticked it off after a few sessions of trying it! I the moved on to try Bush Bully and Under Rumsfeld a bit. Bush Bully still feels very unlikely but the starting slot broke slightly, making it more comfortable and meaning I'm more willing to put some time into it. Gave Under Rumsfeld a good few burns but by the time I had the beta on lock-down I was pretty tired but made some good links, including one where I was setting up for the big move on Rageh Omaar when my heel popped off the hold from not being on properly. Oh well, a very good day still...
S: Rest

A good day on Saturday, confirming my love of Nidderdale and my keenness to get back into it to try some of the easier 7s at Guisecliff and finish off various other projects around the valley.

[i_a_coops]

Missed a week, oops.


M   Indoor bloc, aeropow
T   Anpow? 25 blocs one per minute up to V3
W   Route 4x4s, half 6cs half 7as.
T
F   Parisella's, fell from second pocket on Lou Ferrino several times.

S   Tried the Quarryman groove. Did moves, very hard!
S   Walked up Tryfan
M   
T   WW easy routes up to 6b
W   Portland. Almost did Fighting Torque with 8b+ sequence, then worked out how to stop my foot slipping off and linked through the hard bit to the top. Man I suck at sequences.
T   really good board session, WW V8 in overlapping halves, 4 laps on a V7
F   tried to red point a 7b, failed, then 7a 6c 6c 6c 6c without rest.
S   WW Fridge traverse ~60 move circuit with one good and one poor shakeout. Tried to redpoint it with slightly insufficient rest time with the vague idea of improving my all day stamina, with the result that I fell off near the end every time.
S   WW Fridge traverse again, did it once, plus about 5 burns falling off near the end.

Hopefully getting back on Infinite Gravity next weekend..... Time to taper. 

[andyd]

Andy
Are you expecting ripple effect to be 7c (and therefore as difficult as OHTS? It took me four sessions in total. 3 in the summer, then I crushed it first go on a cold day in early November. I thought it was about 7b in the cool temps, but I see 7c banded about a fair bit. Judged on your latest performance, the ripple effect should go down pretty quickly for you. Have you had a session on it before?

[andy_e]

I've had a session on it before, nearly did it but that was a while ago. It adds a few moves to Green Roof which I thought was about 7B on its own so I reckon 7B+ is about right...

[andyd]

I'm guessing the arête from the back left is green roof? It makes little difference if you start with double leg jams on the right. 2 easy moves at the most.

[andy_e]

I don't start with two leg jams, I pull on on the right, get a right heel-toe, right hand to the lip and do a big move with my left to the arete. Adds enough on for me to make it 7B+ in my opinion.

[andyd]

I still feel at a loss to grade stuff at my limit. It's nowhere near 7c, but classic nonetheless. Get amongst the double leg beta.

[iain]

STG: Continue rehabing finger
MTG: Get in shape for font, 3x 7c+/8a before end of April now
LTG: Infinite Gravity in September

M: oh max hangs and one arm work
T: fb oh ancap
W: Rest
T: rest
F: oh max hangs and one arm work
S: fb oh ancap
S: rest

Another exciting training week Had been hoping to have an easier week and get on with the Lopez workout next week but I'd like a couple of weeks without any finger pain so will carry on and more icing/rehab this week. Might even get climbing, exciting stuff.

Hopefully getting back on Infinite Gravity next weekend..... Time to taper. 

[csl]

T   climbing
W   climbing
T   climbing
F   climbing
S   climbing
S   climbing

I thought you said you were gonna have a rest day? Good luck on infinite gravity!

[i_a_coops]

Haha thanks! I think the trouble is while I'm waiting to hear back about PhDs and temp jobs, I don't have anything else to do and it turns out I really, really like climbing..... I forced myself to apply for more PhDs and more temp jobs today, which had the side effect of wasting half the day checking people out on okcupid.

Thinking about it, I actually love my life right now. 

[tomtom]

Haha thanks! I think the trouble is while I'm waiting to hear back about PhDs and temp jobs, I don't have anything else to do and it turns out I really, really like climbing..... I forced myself to apply for more PhDs and more temp jobs today, which had the side effect of wasting half the day checking people out on okcupid.

Thinking about it, I actually love my life right now. 

If you want to do a PhD, nows the year... most Universities are sinking money into it at the moment (this year only) to drive up their postgrad figures for this years Research Excellence Framework (which dictates how much KERCHING Universities get for the next 4 years..). I suspect it'll dive next year in terms of opportunities.

[i_a_coops]

That's good to hear! I've actually been offered a place for next year already (and I really want to do it) but because the funding decisions haven't been made yet I'm still applying to everything that moves just in case the funding falls through..... (which is what happened to me last year  )