[SA Chris]

I thought the dinbren bulge was in doylo's pants 

I think that's an infamous projection.

[Luke Owens]

Some Diamond projs - world class. The Big Crunch- very very good. Dinbren bulge - very good. Doylos hanging rock 9a project- slightly shit

Reckon there's scope for more lines on Detritus Wall? I've never been to it but the routes that are already put up sound amazing!

Edit: Just seen the topo for the wall on DMM's site. Looks like there is tons of potential there!

[Doylo]

Some Diamond projs - world class. The Big Crunch- very very good. Dinbren bulge - very good. Doylos hanging rock 9a project- slightly shit

Reckon there's scope for more lines on Detritus Wall? I've never been to it but the routes that are already put up sound amazing!

Edit: Just seen the topo for the wall on DMM's site. Looks like there is tons of potential there!

Yes. Could be some amazing DWS too perhaps

[Baron]

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40304#

[Kingy]

I'm sure Sharma and Ondra will be on the next flight out to lay siege to the Dinbren king line! 

As regards the Brandenburg gate project, I was privileged enough in 2002 to witness the mighty G pull on to this during a morning session at the Tor. He did not appear to be making much headway, although I personally am a fan and believe his ascents 

As Hubble is apparently like a warmup in comparison to Brandenburg, one can only surmise that it may contain moves of at least English 7b in difficulty, possibly even English 7c, the jury's out!!     If Hubble is E9 7b, could this be E11 7c???

[205Chris]

Smiling Buttress at Curbar?

Presumably the Beastmaker boys have had a look at this at some point?

[i_a_coops]

Surely the ultimate project would be Pilgrim -> Louie Armstrong -> Clyde? 

Starting up the sitter to The Last Stand would make it even better.

I predict Ondra will come and camp out on the Orme as soon as the weather gets better.

[petejh]

 

Between attempts in the Cave and trips out to Dinbren it looks like his itinerary's pretty full for the Spring. Lets hope there's time for him to fit in some lines abroad. Hopefully whilst dossing in the Cave he'll get around to repeating Gaskin's Pillbox problem, and perhaps work out my proj extension to Trophy Wives on craig pen y gogarth without resorting to using a screw-on hold.

Luke O - Detritus Wall has some king lines (little king, prince perhaps?) but to equip them you need to be more adventurous than the mean and not mind being shat on by Cormorants. They'll make amazing DWS's too.

[Luke Owens]

Luke O - Detritus Wall has some king lines (little king, prince perhaps?) but to equip them you need to be more adventurous than the mean and not mind being shat on by Cormorants. They'll make amazing DWS's too.

Very impressive and much appreciate you adding the access line and re-equipping the routes Pete! Inspiring stuff, cheers!

Really keen to check out that wall this year!

[Monolith]

Hopefully whilst dossing in the Cave he'll get around to repeating Gaskin's Pillbox problem

I doubt that with all of my being. Probably just carry on bolting arbitrary lines up Spanish limestone fuelling Dosage's takings in the process.

[SA Chris]

Nah, I think now he's got a few 9bs under his belt he reckon's he's up for ticking Hubble.

[r-man]

Hubble's got harder moves though, innit.

[Doylo]

Hubble's got harder moves though, innit.

Should be piss when you've bouldered 8c+ though....

[r-man]

I'm sure he'd walk it. But who's out there flying the flag for la short short routes though? Moon and Gaskins both did their hardest moves on a rope. Does the progression of these sort of routes still hold any interest for modern super stars, or are the boulder clip-ups now too uninspiring to bother with?

[jwi]

The first 10 meters of La Dura Dura is 9b/9b+.  Isn't that hard enough?

[slackline]

I seem to recall somewhere in one of the recent interviews with Adam about La Dura Dura that he broke down the sequence into bouldering grades but stated that it was pointless trying to think of it in terms of boulder problems as the difficulty was not in doing them, but in linking them (too lazy to go hunting for the article again)

[Wood FT]

not sure if it's considered a project at all but if someone were to climb Masters Edge on the left hand side, would this actually count as a new line a la Archangel/Don or just be a wack way of doing ME?

[Gritlad]

johnny did all the moves on top rope one handed didn't he? eng 7a......

[willackers]

not sure if it's considered a project at all but if someone were to climb Masters Edge on the left hand side, would this actually count as a new line a la Archangel/Don or just be a wack way of doing ME?

P Widdy did it a couple of years back at the same grade, I think?

[Wood FT]

johnny did all the moves on top rope one handed didn't he? eng 7a......

yeah thats what brought it to mind

not sure if it's considered a project at all but if someone were to climb Masters Edge on the left hand side, would this actually count as a new line a la Archangel/Don or just be a wack way of doing ME?

P Widdy did it a couple of years back at the same grade, I think?

google doesnt bring up much but I wouldnt be suprised, dressed as herman goering or something

[Tommy]

"Remastered Edge", E7 6c I think. Desperate E7 though.

I think he did it dressed as Masters Edge.

[abarro81]

I seem to recall somewhere in one of the recent interviews with Adam about La Dura Dura that he broke down the sequence into bouldering grades but stated that it was pointless trying to think of it in terms of boulder problems as the difficulty was not in doing them, but in linking them (too lazy to go hunting for the article again)

The first 15 moves, are only about 8 meters of climbing could be 9b/b+ in itself. Big reaches on crimpy holds and underclings that lead into huge span rightwards onto the crimp and dyno from there onto a good hueco. It includes 4 boulderproblems, from bolt to bolt, 4 moves each of them. 7C, 7C, 8A+ and 8A. It is nonsense to grade the section in Font grade, because even if though it is only 15 moves, it climbs like a route. You have to clip, the moves are long, it takes 1 minute and 10 seconds to climb. The moves are quite easy as single moves, put putting it together is a question of power endurance and climbing as efficiently as possible. Everything counts.

[r-man]

The first 10 meters of La Dura Dura is 9b/9b+.  Isn't that hard enough?

It's power endurance, as Ondra says himself. I'm talking about power - the hardest moves possible, rather than the hardest moves you can do fifteen of.

The first 15 moves, are only about 8 meters of climbing could be 9b/b+ in itself. Big reaches on crimpy holds and underclings that lead into huge span rightwards onto the crimp and dyno from there onto a good hueco. It includes 4 boulderproblems, from bolt to bolt, 4 moves each of them. 7C, 7C, 8A+ and 8A. It is nonsense to grade the section in Font grade, because even if though it is only 15 moves, it climbs like a route. You have to clip, the moves are long, it takes 1 minute and 10 seconds to climb. The moves are quite easy as single moves, put putting it together is a question of power endurance and climbing as efficiently as possible. Everything counts.

Obviously the type of short nails routes I was talking about don't appeal to most people who love routes rather than boulder problems, but I wonder why they seem to be even less popular now than they were in the past.

[Paul B]

because now with pads you can go bouldering with less risk to smashing your ankles? Trying a route that essentially boils down to a short boulder problem can be frustrating, certainly I've enjoyed bouldering out the RHS of the tor more than when I've put a rope on for the same routes.

[jwi]

Obviously the type of short nails routes I was talking about don't appeal to most people who love routes rather than boulder problems, but I wonder why they seem to be even less popular now than they were in the past.

During the Czech international sandstone meeting last year there was an interesting slide-show by a rather opinionated Tomáš Sobotka who, among many things, claimed that the hardest moves are going to move back to bolted climbs since sport-climbing is safer than even bouldering with large pads.