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Crag-X carnage (Read 7224 times)

Ru

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Crag-X carnage
May 15, 2004, 09:28:20 pm
Popped down to Crag-X for an hour on the way home tonight, and was a bit disturbed to find that not only the right hand starting crimp on The Thing had been snapped off, but also the sidepull on Superman has been broken (still a hold left, but much worse)

Coincidence? Synchronicity? Vandalism? A mutant strong 20 stone boulderer at large?

Can anyone shed any light on this and does anyone still have the missing bits to stick back on?

dave

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#1 Crag-X carnage
May 15, 2004, 09:52:49 pm
i don't see how holds like that could just snap accidentally -strong chaps have been pulling very hard on them for 20+ years. bas cuvier style mentalist chipper? very sad.

Bubba

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#2 Crag-X carnage
May 15, 2004, 11:27:07 pm
Of all the places  :?  :?:

sad indeed  :evil:

Doylo

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#3 Crag-X carnage
May 16, 2004, 03:59:01 pm
Saw it myself, seems very unlikely that two holds snapped round the same time by coincedence

Ste

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#4 Crag-X carnage
May 16, 2004, 07:14:42 pm
Bad shit Ru. Popping down after work with Dave B. on wed will check it out. Give me a bell if you fancy it.
Cheers…..

Bonjoy

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#5 Crag-X carnage
May 17, 2004, 09:42:46 am
:evil:
 Does the damage look repairable, if the pieces don't turn up?

Doylo

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#6 Crag-X carnage
May 17, 2004, 10:03:03 am
didn't really look at superman, but i doubt it on the thing, it'll still go off the lower right sidepull, still a bitch though.

c.j.d.

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#7 Crag-X carnage
May 17, 2004, 03:41:50 pm
Thats mad - that has most definatley got to be vandalism - the crimp/ear on The thing was bomber.  I have actually done the problem without use of this hold, using the lower side pull you mentioned, bypassing the sloper and going straight for the break at the same grade.  Its kind of as good as doing it the original way, but damn that sloper feels good!  Vandal Wankers.

dave

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#8 Crag-X carnage
May 17, 2004, 03:49:23 pm
it shokc me even further that this has happened since in the scheme of things not that many people know aboue or go to that crag really, so whoever it was obviosuly knew exactly what they were doing, i.e. no chance of it being "kids throwing stones at the crag" or anything.

Just also had a wild notion - is there any chance that it was done by anyone pissed off that climbers were going to a banned valley? did it deliberatley as a deterent to climbers? mentalist conservationist? just a shot in the dark, peter sellers style.

Bonjoy

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#9 Crag-X carnage
May 17, 2004, 03:59:06 pm
Or local residents pissed off with people parking on the road.

Bubba

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#10 Crag-X carnage
May 17, 2004, 05:39:37 pm
They'd be more likely to key your car or something than pick out two holds like that. Very odd - maybe it's somebody losing it in the same way that guy in Font did a while back....

dave

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#11 Crag-X carnage
May 17, 2004, 06:46:44 pm
i don't think the choice of hold is a random as it might be - as far as i recal on a crag that mainly flat edges and slopers, those are just about the only 2 holds i can think of that 'stuck out' sufficiently to be knocked off and within easy reach of the floor.

dobbin

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#12 Crag-X carnage
May 18, 2004, 09:33:25 am
There is still an edge on Superman, and it can probably be reclimbed. Where as you used to pull out and up on the hold now you'd have to pinch it, so it probably would be 8b now.

clm

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#13 Crag-X carnage
May 19, 2004, 09:16:35 pm
You dont think some fool took the "famous holds i own" thread too seriously do you???

Buoux 8C

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#14 Crag-X carnage
June 12, 2004, 09:20:55 pm
Unfortuanately, a local powerhouse by the name of Ben, snapped the remainder of the hold from superman today, i am now even more chuffed about doing it last week :D , their is now no hold left at all, we are unsure whether or not to glue it back on?.
However German climbing machine Markus Bock Almost did superman without the side hold at all, using a very poor crimp instead, looked fucking hideous. Fuck it makes you feel week climbing with people like that.
Makus and Ben also hiked tit for tat without the mono at about 8a? Markus warmed up on it.

Doylo

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#15 Crag-X carnage
June 12, 2004, 09:35:53 pm
after seeing his route Armstrong in the Frankenjura i'm not surpised, he's unnaturally strong that man.

Buoux 8C

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#16 Crag-X carnage
June 13, 2004, 11:40:07 am
talking of armstong mate, check this out, Iker pou has been tearing it up in the Jura, its like a yearly thing for Iker to make a few more 8c in the jura, apparantly he's done nearly everything their.

http://www.desnivel.com/object.php?o=11121

markus was seamed pretty pleased when i told him about Ikers repeats.

Talking of the Jura doyle, u keen for a week or two this summer? We have some strong bastards eager to show us around?
What about Kilnsey next weekend?

Doylo

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#17 Crag-X carnage
June 13, 2004, 02:49:48 pm
its a bit too sweaty betty in the summer there for my liking, probably can't afford to go abroad n all. That route infinity that he did is right up your street, bit of a shit line though.

irish si

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#18 Crag-X carnage
June 16, 2004, 01:37:38 am
fuckin hell! shit and hardcore!!  good effort on liquid amber ten men!! see ya soon!!

 

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