[fried]

Monday - 50 push-ups
Tuesday - Indoors. Really nice session, loads of new problems to try, onsight 3x6A, 1x6A+. Then get 2nd 6B. Feeling good. Incredible what a bit of motivation can do. Then watched as a young girl climbed problem after problem in the most incredible controlled style. I've watched some good climbers in my time but this was incredible, being small she couldn't even use my lank for the hold and grip on for grim death method and had to fashion some of the most bizarre mantels I've ever seen. I asked the boss who it was, turns out it was Elsa Ponzo, top French youth team member.

Wednesday/Friday - 50 press ups + one day off
Saturday - Another nice session. Tried lots of difficult stuff 'til my fingers ached. Finished with some repeaters 4 sets on different holds. I can now do a full set on the rungs that I could just hold for 5secs, 3 months ago.

Sunday - 50 press ups.

Doing two good sessions a week feels more productive than three tired ones. Luckily as I'll be moving to my new apartament soon and can split my fingerboarding and other stuff off from my bouldering. And the sun came out today.....spring is on its way.

Weight 75.4kg

[csl]

Goals for Jan

Start climbing regularly again
at least twice a week at Kelsey Kerridge
one fingerboard session a week.
Enter Bouldering competition 2/2/2013 and come top 10.

Mon-
Tue- Good session at Kelsey Kerridge - did a crimpy v4/5 eliminate and repeated a V5 and a V4 i'd done before first go. Repeated lots of easier problems and then made a 30 move circuit which i did 3 laps on. Did a core session from the Climb Strong blog when i got home - good workout.
Wed- Fingerboard - open hand and front 3 and back three 3 hangs on each for around 10 seconds on medium rung. 3x10 pushups.
Thur- 11km run in 50:43
Fri- poor session at KK - couldn't do crimpy eliminate i did on tuesday. Did repeat other V5 and 4 first go again tho. And had some brief goes at a steep v7. Lots of easier stuff as well.
Sat- Parkrun - Wimpole. Came 5th - led the first 2.5km but the course was very snowy and icy which slowed me down.
Sun- About to do a core session - same as tuesdays - maybe some invert rows and pull-ups.

[Falling Down]

Had a really nasty virus all week and couldn't even work never mind climb.  Consoled by my dream on Wednesday night when I did several consecutive one arm pull-ups on each arm.

[shark]

Thanks fried

11.9-10 (last week same)


Mon. 
Tues. Noon. Weighted deadhangs and assisted one armers. Eve. Foundry with Poppy and Ben. Bouldered. Couldn't do touches on campus board so held rung to drop down instead. 
Weds. Noon and teatime. Getting back into endurance work on systems board 
Thurs. 
Fri. Eve Weighted deadhangs and assisted one armers.   
Sat. AM. Works jus over an hour with Ben. Arms tired.
Sun. PM Foundry 3 hour bouldering session. Arms and shoulders feel wrecked now.

Good week although didn't get outside.

Still no takers for sport climbing at half term

[duncan]

STG - rehab. wrist


M - Short run
T - finger rolls - R hand
W - Short, fast run
T - finger rolls - L+R hands
F - Biscuit. c. 10 x Blacks (V0).  L. wrist tweaky.
S -
S - finger rolls - R hand

Wrist not quite right.  Be patient...

[webbo]

Mon. Finger still painful but not as swollen Weights highlights benchpress 1 x 72.5k deadlift 2 x 85k ( no more weights )
Tue.  Turbo 10 min w/up 1min 53 x 21 increasing in 1 min to 7 mins at 53 x 15 with 1 min easy between each set h/r ave 128 max 168 10 min w/down.
Wed. Nothing
Thu. Turbo 10 min w/ up 1 min on 1 min off x 10 53 x14 10 min w/down h/r ave 132 max 175.
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Weights highlights deadlift 5 x 85k lowlights dropping 65k on my chest. Turbo 10 min w/up 15 secs on 15 secs off x3 x5 x7 x9 x11 x15 1 min easy between each set 10 min w/down h/r ave 144 max 173.
Sun. Bike outside. Blowing a gale out for 2hrs 14 mins up and down South Ferriby Wold by 7 diffrent climbs h/r ave 144 max 194!! cakories burnt 1510.

Finger alot less swollen and I now have a good range of movement but if I try to pull on it,its painful. Stopped icing it and now trying to massage it.

Biking's going well    

[Muenchener]

STG : none just now; barely ticking over
MTG (2013): Frankenjura VII onsight; Alpine multipitch VI; Welsh trad E2
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

Had a really nasty virus all week and couldn't even work never mind climb. 

Ditto.

M - S: Bronchitis. Bored. Obsessive study of Ground Up North Wales book, cam shopping
S: Antibiotics starting to bite, sufficiently to manage a light yoga/stretching session.

[Dolly]

M Walked miles in the snow taking various kids to schools (My kids, not just random kids in the snow cos thats wrong) Completely knackered and had to have a power nap on the sofa at work at lunchtime
T Good lunchtime sess on the wave at The Foundry
W
T Good powerful shed sess
F 5.3 K run in the snow, felt very hard
S not sure if this counts as a legit power club entry, but snowballing up the garden followed by snow sumo, snow football and snow rugby. Came inside and fell asleep on sofa straight away (think this might be one of my core skills)
S beautiful snowy plantation with no one there. Wrecked my skin on that daft pebble pulling problem right of crescent arete without really getting anywhere. Burb N for repeated failure on Blind Fig but had a good workout and saw Gritlad piss it


Shoulder about the same. Off to see Val next week

[Luke Owens]

M: Rest
T: Indoor Bouldering Comp, managed 15 problems, 12 Easy/Medium flashed, 3 "hard" problems done after 3 goes, didn't managed the other 5 Hard/Nails ones. Managed to tick two V4/5's at the end of the session too.
W: Core
T: Weighted Max Hangs, 11.5kg added weight, 3 x 10 sec main sets - felt hard possibly didn't warm up properly.
F: Shoulder Stability Weights, Built 3 gaint snowmen...
S: Weights, Biceps, Triceps, Shoulders.
S: Nesscliffe, got on a V5 and V6 that I haven't tried in months both of which still feel nails despite being able to get slightly closer on both to do "the" move on each. Managed to get through the crux on a V5 traverse only to pump out on an easier bit at the end of the session. One to go back for as soon as possible.

Need to stop yo-yo-ing my attemps when i'm out bouldering, need to rest more between attempts (Note to self: take a watch!)

[cheque]

STG: 7A and E2 on grit this season. Maintain sport fitness over winter
MTG: 7b, 7B and E3 in 2013. Gain finger strength.

M- Rest
T- Depot. PE on circuit board, ie. repeatedly doing the hardest I can do with 12 minute rests inbetween rather than linking it into easier ones 'til I pump out. Managed three separate laps. I never drop this one now so I'm pleased with that. Some unfocussed hard-feeling bouldering afterwards.
W- Rest.
T- Max hangs. Proper max hangs hanging for as long as possible once on each grip type and no more and writing the results down.
F- Rest. Feeling really worked from max hangs. Probably a sign that they're worthwhile training!
S- 45 minutes snow shovelling then Notts Depot. New circuit board PB. Working the hardest circuit I can do (which now feels quite steady) with only small footholds- didn't quite do it. Next hardest circuit still feels more like bouldering however. New red ('V3-V5') boulder problems- did about half (15). Monster session.
S- Notts depot. Did all 30 new blue ('V1-V3') boulder problems then five more reds.

[nai]

M - Max hangs, first session for two weeks, managed same weight but for less time.
tw - rest
T - didn't make it out as planned, tried a hang session but a tweak from elbow and finger suggested I should can it. 250Kg TGUs & 120% BW deadlifts
f - rest & plan weekend

S - Porth Ysgo with 2t, 3t & Grubes, a bit damp and only had two hours before rain frustratingly stopped play - half a dozen problems including a flash of Really Cool Toys

S Ysgo in fine fettle, a good haul including Popcorn Party, Jawbreaker, Perrin Crack SDS & agonisingly close to Incredible Shaking Man SDS. Did that last-day-in-Font thing when you keep trying it although you're trashed because you know you won't be back for ages, getting so close but needing so long between attempts to recover before eventually having to concede defeat.  Great day.

[Duma]

STG - Wrist rehab stuff, run regularly, get in shape for MTG
MTG - Peak trip + font trip before spring, if I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M -
T -
W - TCA afternoon, left climbing bag at mates house so had to make do with annoying old boots. worked last couple of reds with Rory, did the new probs that had been set on the mothership.
T -
F - TCA eve for Jacks last climb. Probably best session since wrist injury in spring, felt really good. Finished off the last two problems I still hadn't done from the red circuit - these are both around 7B+/C, and I'd not managed the crux move on either until this session. 20 minutes on the woody, then repeated the blue 7C on the mothership first go, plus the orange 7A/+
S - work
S - work, few press ups.

69-70kg - ate too much this weekend.

Friday session was ace, but depressing life issues are killing psyche at the moment.

[Muenchener]

250Kg TGUs

 

[i_a_coops]

M - Board session at Westway, fell badly bit off a small part of my tongue and got a split under my fingernail . did a V7 while spitting blood  . Ancap circuits.
T -
W - Wishing split would  recover faster, core
T - Route 4x4s on steep 6cs with occasional 7a. Good session.
F - Weirdly good indoor bloc session at Westway up to V7, aerocap/ARC
S -
S - Portland, Cuttings. Tried Fighting Torque, did hard bit in two sections after taking far too long to work out a sequence. Should go next time....

[nai]

250Kg TGUs

 

Haha, total weight lifted obviously, not one max rep, just don't want to bore everyone with the small details

[SA Chris]

STG - get climbing again
MTG - get down to 13 st (from 14st 1 ish on NYD)
LTG - redpoint something plus several other projects

M -
T - weather shite, free weights and yoga at home
W - surprisingly achy after weights.
T - Day out boarding at Glenshee - not a load of exercise, but boarding on pomas all day is pretty knackering. Managed to get stuck in a gully off piste, which was a workout getting out of, as anyone with experience of this knows.
F -
S -
S - Morning swimming with K, had him on my back for a bit so got a couple of lengths in before he got bored.

Monday am weigh in - 13 st 9 3/4, down nearly 2 pounds from last week.

Need to try and get to yoga this week, failed spectacularly this year so far.

[iain]

STG: Continue rehabing finger
MTG: Get in shape for font, 3x 7c+/8a before end of April now
LTG: Infinite Gravity in September

M: Rest
T: Rest
W: open hand max hangs session, one arm work
T: fb ancap
F-S: nothing

A low volume week although the sessions I did were a good intensity.

Finger's still improving and I even went climbing on it last night but there's still pain. It's probably/hopefully scar tissue but going to continue taking care of it so lopez hangs will need to wait.

fell asleep on sofa straight away (think this might be one of my core skills)

I think this is a weakness I need to urgently work on.

[rich d]

Mon - sun ate loads and drank even more - cullminating ate in Roux's place on friday in London and a kebab on saturday
Sat - notts depot - climbed rubbish - went on the circuit board towards the end of the session to try and improve my endurance/ability to climb more than 1 problem an hour - quite enjoyable. Watched the pooch climbing - very inspiring.
This week - eat a lot less (did a full fast day yesterday - suprisingly easy)
Don't drink til weekend - 2 days down
Core and lots of it - a massive weak link
Fingerboard 4 sessions another massive weak link.
At least one indoor session and weather depending time to test the lard on a couple of peak 6bs.

[tomtom]

How do you fast for a day - I'd faint...

[rich d]

Thought I'd give it a go. Amazingly felt fine - I often miss breakfast and lunch anyway - so it's probably not too much of a push from that. Really wierdly don't feel hungry at all today, just feels like a normal day almost like my body has reset itself. Managed some core and fingerboard stuff last night too. According to google and my calculator I need to do 15 days of this (not in a row) to get to my target weight, feels more doable occasionally than restricting everyday.

[cheque]

I don't think skipping meals or fasting is an effective way to lose weight (fasting everyday will work obviously, but you never saw Gandhi cranking hard).

This is pretty much how I understand it. I work with a guy (roughly the same age as me, also active) who doesn't eat at all during the 7.5 hour work day, whist I'm renowned at work for pretty much eating constantly. I'm lighter. 

[rich d]

Fair point - I don't think it's a magic cure for losing a bit of weight (some people seem to be zelous in their beliefs over certain diets/fads). Just thought once a week would cut some calories back and give a concrete goal for target weight of 15 weeks. My biggest thing is drinking mid week and then eating crap as I've had too much to drink as well as the calories in alcohol. Last night I didn't feel I would have had the energy to do a lot of aerobic stuff. But 50 pressups, 3 mins of plank and a short session on the fingerboard felt no tougher than usual - as the workload last night wasn't too high I don't feel achey or worked over today yet - got another short midweek session tonight so I'll see how I react to that.

[nai]

There was a program on about fasting 6-12 months ago (might have been a Dispatches if anyone wants to search for it), it's being used as a treatment the theory being that if the body isn't busy digesting food it can turn itself to repairing injury & illness.  Sounded quite convincing and did generate results. The fast day allowed 500Kcals and was only 1-2 days per week.  Keep meaning to try it but I am a bit of a grazer.
 

[metal arms]

I'm doing this.  It was Horizon - http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/health-19112549

I started it a month or so before xmas doing 2 days a week and only having a light (under 600cal) meal in the evening.  Lost a bit of weight but not loads.

I sacked it off over xmas because I love eating and drinking to excess at any excuse but have started again, just doing one day though because I have started going to the gym on my dinner break.

I was fairly convinced by the claims on the programme, but the main reason was that it was a much easier lifestyle change for me than monitoring my daily calorie intake.  1 day a week of misery is easier than constant scrutiny of my food and drink intake.

[tomtom]

I'm a complete grazer - with a pretty high metabolism and slightly sketchy blood sugar levels (If I'm ever angry give me a flapjack and I'll be an angel in 5 min..). I think fasting would be dangerous for me (and unpleaseant for those around me!) but thats just my odd body..