[tomtom]

G'day - thought I'd start a little early on Sunday as I wont be getting out today..

Its been a quieter week on the climbing front - mainly due to the weather - which has had me glued to most weather forecasts trying to second guess whats going to happen next. MrsTT now groans whenever the weather comes on as she knows I will blank out all other (generally random wittering) noises in the room while its on

Snowmageddon pt 1. hit Hull on Monday - where we had about 10cm that partially melted and then froze solid.. Pt1 also gave some liberal sprinklings accross most of Yorkshire, so there was no chance really to get out on Monday or Tuesday - but I had an eye on Wednesday which looked clear from fresh snow - and a couple of days may have given parts of the crag a chance to dry/clear. So Wednesday saw me trek off to Almscliff - and with much trepedation I arrived as Yorkshires finest Knobule was surrounded in Freezing fog. I've had a couple of sessions in freezing fog - and its been alright as the rock has been dry, so heading up to the cliff it was in pretty good nic - remarkable considering the snow and fog. It was that good dry cold - no mud, no melting snow just dry and cold. Not much wind either... There were a couple of folk under/around the Keel (Andy and Jim? hello!) trying the Keel/Bulb etc.. and I warmed up and got on it. This time I tried the final moves 3 or 4 times with moderate success - rested and had 5 tries - each with at least 10 min rest between.. all failure - all close to the pocket. I wont bore you any more with the details - I've plateau'd on this problem and need to either a. Have a good day when it all clicks, b. work my weaknesses c. Have some time off from it - or some combination of all three.. after 5 tries I kind of knew it wasnt going to go and we wandered off to the Egg... Did silver trout with (warm up) and without the block - and its the first time I've done the blockless version so a fresh 7 in the bag It was an especially ungainly attempt - half cut from the Keel I slapped and swore my way up the slopers, a good fight! Jim wanted a look at Underhand, so went back there and I had a couple of flails but I was trashed.

It was good to get on something different at the Cliff - and maybe I should restrict my visits to once a week or thereabouts! So this is a good question - when you're working a problem is it wise to just hit it, hit it, hit it and work at it solid and in concentrated way until it cracks - or take your time. I think I've tried the repeat way and thats had partial but not complete success so am thinking of scaling things back.. hmm...

I'd like to also say thanks for all the encouragement from people on this forum and on twitter - where #keelwatch was briefly trending (in a small way) on Wednesday afternoon By the way, I seem to have lost one of the furry inners to my Decathlog winter boots/welly things - so if (on the very off chance) someone sees one by the car parking bit at the cliff put it somewhere safe ish. Though its probably been pissed/shat/snowed/dogged on by now...

So the week rumbled on - and Snowmageddon II looked like it was going to strike on Friday (which would have been my next climbing day) and as a friday AM meeting was cancelled in Hull I scuttled back across to Manchester on thursday night before it all hit. Which it didnt. About a cm of snow graced the grey streets of South Manchester and most of that melted during the day. Like a 5 year old I was excitedly watching the TV and weather forecast hoping for the mass disruption and chaos that snow causes, but nothing happened. I went and got my hair cut instead - and the barber had a good moan at me that it hadnt snowed and he was waiting for loads too I think the only reason I get my hair cut there is that the fella working there is one of the most dour, sarcy, pisstaking people I know. Excellent. Waiting for the non-inevitable I wandered over to Stockport to get a replacement winter snow boot things (now only £10...) and then to the station to get MrsTT who'd been down in London all week. Except her train was delayed - so back home etc.. yawn, piffle usual shizzle...

So Saturday. Where to climb? A few people were free, but where to go? A crag so it wouldnt be snow plastered? But what about access roads etc.. I couldnt get out Sunday as we're meeting friends, so it had to be Sat... not wanting to go on plastic, I suddenly thought about Thorn.. near Lancaster, further NW, so even less snow than we had here in Manchester.. I checked some webcams and it looked snow free at lower altitude..

I've never been to Thorn - but heard really good things about it, from both Andy Popp and more recently Fatneck.. I've been a bit put off by the 45 min walk in (I am a lazy bastard) but a snowy day - somewhere new - even if the climbing was out it would be a bit of an adventure/scoping trip so I got out of the house by about 9.30 - cheeky Greggs breakfast and off... I think it was a pretty good choice in the circumstances - not much snow - below freezing (so dry cold) and access was fine..



But there wasnt too much to go at! Despite all the brushing - those easier arete/slab problems had snow in the pockets and were pretty grim.. Furthermore, my old school Snap mats had the shiny plastic base - which are superb for sledging, but rubbish for bouldering in the snow! I ended up turning them upside down which gave them some traction. The climbs around 'for my next trick' (recommended by Fatneck) were in once I brushed down the tops and were sheltered from the Baltic wind.. So I spent a whole session on two problems. I warmed up on the stand up (5+) for my next trick, 3 or 4 times, then set about the sit. The cold was really tricky - I had about a min on the rock before my hands screamed at me and I had to get them back in gloves. Feet could last about 5-10 min but then needed longer to warm up.. It was made worse by not being able to warm up properly. Normally when its sub zero my hands are OK after a long warm up - but I just couldnt get them the mileage for this... Anyway, I worked the problem - and its SUPERB! a real 3* problem in my view.. the vid is short (I only had 1/4 battery) and shows the sit and me failing - I did the higher moves from the stand where you reach through with the right hand (where I fell off) a superb move, loads of pulling in and some balance... bring the RF up and bone down on the toe, then bring the LH up to a higher crimp, LF smear on the face and pop for the top (Ice filled jug!). Superb. I'm a bit gutted that I spent so long faffing around on the burly sit start part - Fatneck tweeted me some more efficient (but more moves) SS beta but by then I was burnt out.. So I got a couple of hours in eventually and got really well worked out.. Lovely tromp down the icy hill and back to a bath and a meal out. A good day - despite the non-success... The new hat is mint too

It strikes me as I write this each week - that I dont actually 'tick' a great deal of new problems.. I try quite a few things - and enjoy it - but must of my trips out end up in non-success... 

[nai]

when you're working a problem is it wise to just hit it, hit it, hit it and work at it solid and in concentrated way until it cracks - or take your time.

This depends where you are in the problem cycle, if you're still working it then go at it time after time but when you're ready to try succeeding on it you need to pick your conditions and the times you're feeling good, etc. 
Following your attempts it seems you've already cracked it but trying to complete it you have less success when it's very cold and your best attempts come when it's a bit more pleasant, a few degrees above freezing and fairly calm. So, take your time, do other stuff and wait for the right day to return to it when your chances of success are higher.

[tomtom]

when you're working a problem is it wise to just hit it, hit it, hit it and work at it solid and in concentrated way until it cracks - or take your time.

This depends where you are in the problem cycle, if you're still working it then go at it time after time but when you're ready to try succeeding on it you need to pick your conditions

Which is probably where I am... :/

[nai]

sorry, Tom, I've edited that since you replied.

[nai]

And while I'm here:

M- with elbow still tweaky I kicked off the year's endurance training, obviously way off where I finished last year but miles ahead of where I started so quite pleasing. Deadlifts & TGUs
t - knackered
w - rest
T - went up to Stanage but spent more time plodding around in snow than actually climbing
F - Rivelin, did Sparks. 350Kg (total weight lifted) TGU session
S - 500kg of TGUs

[fried]

I'm finished for the day. Weather conditions put paid to any chance of getting outside this week.

Monday - Nothing
Tuesday - Indoor, it's cold and I just stick to bouldering and skip the repeaters and other stuff, far too cold to be standing around barefoot in the gym.
Wednesday - Nothing
Thursday - As above, but pretty short session, even colder.

Friday - Went for a lovely walk in the snow at around 10pm. Everyone was looking so happy, even had a snowball fight with the local drug dealers.

Saturday - Indoor as above, but had a really nice session. I normally get my wall to myself on my mid-week sessions which is fine, but sometimes a wall can be too empty. Nice to work some stuff with other people.

Sunday - Watch snow falling. Make list of stuff to do from bleau.info.

Weight - Fluctuating a lot but around 75.5kg

[iain]

I dont actually 'tick' a great deal of new problems.. I try quite a few things - and enjoy it - but must of my trips out end up in non-success...

I think that's just what happens when you're constantly challenging yourself. It's natural to get sucked into projects and takes extra focus to not.


STG: Continue rehabing finger
MTG: Get in shape for font, 3x 7c+/8a before end of April now
LTG: Infinite Gravity in September

M: Sort of max hangs and one arm work
T: rest
W: Sort of max hangs and one arm work
T: FB ancap session
F: rest
S: Sort of max hangs and one arm work. Sub par session where I thought I was trying hard, only to discover on my last couple of hangs that I hadn't been trying hard enough. I still get surprised when I re-remember that having a distracted and tired mind means that I'm not able to give it everything.
S: about to do an fb ancap sesson

I'm really missing climbing. When things get busy it tends to be the 'treats' that get dropped first, and for me that's meant I've climbed once in the last month now, indoors or out. It gets counter productive though, where the lack of the enjoyable/different stuff means everything begins to suffer, including the work you're sacrificing the fun stuff for. I will at least get to a wall this week.
Having said that, I'm pleased that I've been able to get my one hour fb sessions, means that when I do get climbing again my basic strength will be there, even if the movements gone a bit.

Finger's still improving, two more weeks before I start proper max hangs.

[webbo]

Mon. Finger swollen and painful. Iced it several times.
Tue, Turbo 10 min w/up 1 min on 1 min off 2mins on 1 min off up to 7mins on starting in 53 x 24 and ending with 53 x 15.10 min w/down.
Wed. Weights highlights 2x 70 k bench press 2 x 77.5k deadlift.
Thu. Turbo 10 min w/up 1 min on 1 min off x 10 53 x 14 max h/r 178 av 134.10 min w/down
Fri. Nothing.
Sat. Weights highlights 1 x 72.5k benchpress 2 x 80k deadlift. Turbo 10 min w/up 15 secs on 15 secs off x3,5,7,9,11,15 with 1 min easy between each set 53 x 15 10 w/down max h/r 175 av 141.
Sun.Turbo 10 min w/up 25 mins 53 x 19 20 mins 53 x18 20 mins 53 x17 10 min w/down max h,r 161 av 128.

Finger seems to be improving all the time iced it every day plus stretching it. Now able to massage it without too much pain
Hopefully I can avoid the temptation to try climbing too soon.

[chris j]

S - 500kg of TGUs

Forgive my ignorance but what are TGUs?

[205Chris]

S - 500kg of TGUs

Forgive my ignorance but what are TGUs?

Turkish Get Ups. Normally performed with a kettlebell or dumbell. Small girl optional:

[nai]

That reminds me, wasn't FD supposed to be emulating that using Paul B as his small girl?  Did it ever happen?

[cheque]

STG- 7A & E2 on grit this season, maintain sport fitness over winter.
MTG- 7b, 7B & E3 in 2013, increase finger strength and hopefully experience performance increase commensurate with improving biggest weakness.

M- Rest.
T- Rest.
W- Notts Depot. Repeated previous weeks circuit board PB but felt quite wasted after- didn't do a single new boulder problem.
T- Pushups.
F- Max hangs. First session of new  strong finger regime as tweaks have now finally subsided. Some of the hangs are embarrassingly short but I'm determined to press on and hopefully see progress.
S- 10 mile walk in snowy chilterns.
S- 2 mile walk in snowy chilterns.

[shark]

Thanks tomtom

11.9-10 (last week 11.9-11.11)

Easier week

Mon. 
Tues. eatswood with Chris Barr. Dropped the last move 
Weds. 
Thurs. 
Fri. PM eatswood on own. Ally showed up. Dropped last move again 
Sat. AM. An hour with Ben mainly on Moon Board. PM Sledging at Ringinglow
Sun. PM Works again with Ben. Tried mainly blacks and murples

Good week. Would have been nice to tick the traverse but c'est la vie. Got a pass out for half term to go sport climbing    will start doing some endurance training in preparation.

My best goes on the Traverse

Tuesday:



Friday:



 

[csl]

Goals for Jan

Start climbing regularly again
at least twice a week at Kelsey Kerridge
one fingerboard session a week.
Enter Bouldering competition 2/2/2013 and come top 10.

Mon - 11.2km run in 48.50.
Tue - KK - good session. Did a V5 i couldn't do before. Repeated lots of easier stuff, starting to feel ok at climbing again. Some Lock and Hover laps. Core and stretching to finish.
Wed -
Thu - Slow Run with GF - 6km in 33.40
Fri - Biscuit Factory. About 20 of the Green circuit v3-5 mostly onsight some second go. A few of the Reds. Some attempts at Yellows. Then onsighted stuff up to V4 on the comp wall. Good to onsight pretty much everything i tried even if the grades are a bit soft.
Sat - nothing
Sun - nothing, snow stopped me running and i'm probably not going to get round to fingerboarding!

[Muenchener]

STG: falling practice
MTG: Welsh E2 & Dolomite (or other alpine) VI in summer
LTG: Big Alpine rock routes: S. face Marmolada, W. face Totenkirchl

M-T: work, family ...
F: Stair climbing @work: 4 x 40 stories
S:
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Shortish, powerish/projecting stuff session.

[Stubbs]

Shark, as a route climber can't you get some back at that knee bar so you have some in the tank for the last move, or is it shit?

[Dolly]

You look really solid on that Shark  - I'm sure you'll get it next time. Am keen to go and have a look at it as well cos it looks ace


M rest
T Foundry board at lunchtime, good session
W Shed session
T nothing
F 5k run. Very cold
S Shed. One good new problem and one nearly
S 5k run in the snow - hard work. 40 mins in the shed but was tired from yesterday


Shoulder pretty much the same.

[duncan]

STG: Stay fit, get to wall for >2 sessions a week, focus on aerobic endurance.
MTG: E5 onsight, RP 7b
LTG: LH&F goals in Switzerland, Dolomites, US

M -  Short run
T - Biscuit - endurance of some kind: 10 mins on / 10 mins off x 4 sets, easy stuff and shaking out interspersed with V2/3 "cruxes". A good session.
W - Short run
T -
F - Biscuit - bouldering.  c. 10 x Blues (V2-4). L. wrist sore then fell onto it in the snow.
S - Short run.  Wrist sore
S - Snow related joviality.

Silly wrist tweak but I think different from the problem that stopped me for 10 weeks this time last year.  Take it gently...  A good time to have a busy week at work and rubbish weather.

I'm really missing climbing. When things get busy it tends to be the 'treats' that get dropped first, and for me that's meant I've climbed once in the last month now, indoors or out. It gets counter productive though, where the lack of the enjoyable/different stuff means everything begins to suffer, including the work you're sacrificing the fun stuff for. I will at least get to a wall this week.
Having said that, I'm pleased that I've been able to get my one hour fb sessions, means that when I do get climbing again my basic strength will be there, even if the movements gone a bit.

Finger's still improving, two more weeks before I start proper max hangs.

Hang in there (!).  Your finger is getting better and you are still able to do a good amount of basic strength training.  The crags are dripping, you're not missing much.

[Duma]

STG - keep up actually do some injury rehab stuff, start keep running again, get in proper shape for MTG
MTG - Peak trip + font trip before spring, if I do any hard stuff that'll be nice too.
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M -
T - TCA for quick hour before work, played on the new mirrorboard, think this'll be really good, not just for imbalances, but the hold concentration makes it really good for making up probs on, and the Core set is great. shame the footholds are all so good though. Didn't really try out the woody, only got as far as determining it to be a lot more usable than when it had Simon's holds on.
W - Run before work, 5.5miles, 49min. felt ok, pleased as first run in ages
T -
F -
S -
S - TCA for a couple of hours before night shift. couple more mothership things had been set so did them, the steep one is prob low 7 and I flashed it, so pleased. Then worked the one of the comp blacks I'd not done, felt ok but no real progress. Plus 20mins on the woody - just getting a feel for it really, but impression is that this basic board stuf will be good for me. Joe said one of the finals problems I did last sunday is 7C, not sure about that but it made me feel good.

haven't weighed myself this week

Need to actually touch some rock to see where I'm at...

[shark]

Shark, as a route climber can't you get some back at that knee bar so you have some in the tank for the last move, or is it shit?

Good thought Stubbs. I get the kneebar more solid than most and able to milk the 'shake' better than anyone else who I have seen on it. Think any longer on it would be counter-productive though.

I think the problem is that the penultimate move (where you drop down to share on the finger rail) saps my power to much. I find the same thing on the green traverse. I go from feeling good and in control to losing all strength and co-ordination and having to optimistically throw one on.

Writing this I realise that the drop down move is like the "touches" exercise on a campus board which I find desperate too.

I'll make a mental note to do a couple of sets each time I go to the climbing wall.

Cheers

[tomtom]

Shark, as a route climber can't you get some back at that knee bar so you have some in the tank for the last move, or is it shit?

Good thought Stubbs. I get the kneebar more solid than most and able to milk the 'shake' better than anyone else who I have seen on it. Think any longer on it would be counter-productive though.

I think the problem is that the penultimate move (where you drop down to share on the finger rail) saps my power to much. I find the same thing on the green traverse. I go from feeling good and in control to losing all strength and co-ordination and having to optimistically throw one on.

Writing this I realise that the drop down move is like the "touches" exercise on a campus board which I find desperate too.

I'll make a mental note to do a couple of sets each time I go to the climbing wall.

Cheers

Its probably only a matter of 5 or 10 seconds extra you need Shark - If you can work the first part silky smooth and fast then you'll get to the end fresher...

[Luke Owens]

STG: Redpoint 7b, Boulder V6 consistently
MTG: Redpoint 7c, Tick a V7
LTG: Redpoint 8a, Boulder V8

M - Weighted Deadhangs, worked out optimal weight for Max Hangs

T - Quick evening visit to Nesscliffe, climbed a V4, fell off the topout because it was wet!

W -  Weighted Max Hangs, 20mm edge, 3 x 10 secs, 5kg, 7.5kg & 9kg - Main Set 5 x 10 secs 10kg.

T - Indoor Bouldering - 4 V5/6 problems in a session - Personal Best

F - Rest
S - Rest

S - Ruthin Escarpment - "Rumble in the Jungle" Hard V4, did in a few goes.
Flashed a V5/6C - First flash of the grade, psyched!

[i_a_coops]

Well it was very wet in Font, but thanks to Iain for recommending Magic Bus as it was the only thing I managed to climb that actually felt like moderately tricky. I genuinely love lowball roof climbing!

S   Ancap on campus board. 9 sets of 3x(13579) followed by 147 on each arm. poor aeropow/aerocap circuits.
M   Route 4x4s at 6a+ to 6b+
T   Anpow, aerocap, ARC. Good session.
W   ARC, route 4x4s on steep 6cs.
T   core session (including being punched in the stomach repeatedly while listening to angry German industrial techno to try and simulate Infinite Gravity)
F   Route 4x4s all steep 6cs (first set started with 7a)
S
S      Warmed up then the climbing wall shut, I forgot it was a weekend. 4 sets of 6 one armers (alternating arms) back at home.

[Fiend]

Link to angry German industrial techno please 

[nai]

shark , have you watched the videos on pb.info, you may be able to gain something that would make the drop down lass sapping?  nobody milks the kneebar too much

http://peakbouldering.info/problems/1731