[shurt]

I've been making an effort these past 6 months or so to push on and go up a few grades and stop plateauing where I've been for a while (font 6c ish). I got hold of a fingerboard and have been bouldering only at the wall.

It's all been making a difference and the general trend is upwards. The thing i would like to improve is being able to stay at my new slightly higher level for longer. After warming up and gradually trying harder stuff I normally only have a few goes in me on the probs near my peak. I appreciate I am never going to be able to have 50 tries on really difficult problems but would like to be able to stick around for longer.

Suggestions would be very welcome.

[erm, sam]

How much volume are you doing at your onsight level? If you build up doing a lot of just below hardest probs level then your fitness will increase. Then you can push the number of attempts at harder levels to increase the number of good hard attempts you can do in a session.

[tomtom]

I think that's pretty normal.. When I'm trying/working problems fit at my limit I usually only get 5 or 6 tries before it all falls apart... Depends on the problem.. I can have 30 attempts on Deliverance and just feel worn not done in!

As its right on your limit, then I think its quite reasonable to only be able to manage a few attempts...

[erm, sam]

Hmmm, Tom Tom I think you may have a fitness issue!

[shurt]

Well if its normal then I feel a bit better...

Re onsighting stuff, I generally try and do a lot of that. I can generally onsight a lot of stuff about a grade below my top level which I suppose makes the whole thing even more frustrating.

[tomtom]

Hmmm, Tom Tom I think you may have a fitness issue!

Depends how hard you try I think when you're right at your limit theres only so much in the tank..

[a dense loner]

Yep shurt whatever your level if you're climbing near your max, you only get so many goes. Especially true of problems at the wall and problems that are more on the burly side as opposed to slabby side of things

[ducko]

Take longer rests inbetween attempts has helped me a few times, plus keep your energy levels up, bananas chocolate etc

[shurt]

Well I was certainly scrabbling around for coffee, chocolate etc on Sunday as I felt my powers fading.  Weather perfect, muscles spent. It's not a happy combo. If only you could boulder all day...

[slackline]

This is not the thread I was expecting it to be. 

[John Gillott]

Building up the volume of problems done in a session at slightly below your peak should condition you to doing more of that (in line with the Macleod mantra of what you do you become). This ought to cross over into some increase in the number of attempts you can make at problems at or close to your limit. It may or may not be the perfect form of training for pushing your limit, but then as a UKB regular and pretty decent climber (Ru) pointed out on here a few years ago (or maybe it was UKC), a few, short, quality strength sessions each week is all well and good at one level, but when the good weather comes you want to be able to go out and spend a good few hours trying and doing problems rather than feeling wasted after an hour and a half.

[shurt]

This is not the thread I was expecting it to be. 

At least someone got the joke...

[tomtom]

This is not the thread I was expecting it to be. 

At least someone got the joke...

Come again?