[andy_e]

How can something that high be reachy? It just requires niftier footwork!

[andyd]

How can something that high be reachy? It just requires niftier footwork!

yes

[moose]

Re Almscliff, inability to accommodate my long legs means I can't get near Silver Trout - so it should suit the shorter gent.  Someone mentioned Slopey Traverse - isn't that 7b+/c (depending on chip usage)?  The Fieldside Traverse is next to it and 7b - and that's good. 

At Brimham, Grouch and Crimpy Roof are both good.  Other 7b's I like are Long Haul traverse, Pinky Traverse (with the flake finish) and Titfield Thunderbolt.  The back wall traverse into Happy Days is also around 7b - unpleasant but satisfying. 

[Bonjoy]

Green Nose at Brimham is really good. Can't recall if that gets 7a+ or 7b

[andy_e]

7B and brilliant to boot. Titfield is ace but a tricky start if you're short on reach. Pinky Traverse with the flake finish is brick if you can't reach the flake.

Silver trout is a good climb but eliminate and quite bitey on the finger.

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/search.html?action=search&text=7b

Has anyone done Parappa the Rapper? Any good?

This is mint (not finished it mind so can't comment on grade:

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=caley__team_america#photo

Spondonical at Simon's is flipping amazing and not reachy.

Polar Haze at Rocky Valley is also good, along with the forementioned Energetic Follow Through.

There's an awesome 7B prow at West Chevin too which isn't reachy. Burly and balancy.

[andy_e]

Caspar's Start at Norwood and Tantric Traverse at Snowden are also both very good. Neither very reachy.

[Robl]

This is mint (not finished it mind so can't comment on grade:

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=caley__team_america#photo

I was on it at wkend, destroys skin in no time. Feels about right for 7b mind.

[cofe]

Doesn't it get 7a or + in the guide? Good problem.

[andy_e]

Probably, but I wouldn't trust the guide's grades. Or much else. A block on the next page or two has all the problems on it listed as font 5 when one's 7B, one's 7A and the other is about 6C.

[tomtom]

Re Almscliff, inability to accommodate my long legs means I can't get near Silver Trout - so it should suit the shorter gent. 

Heel or toe around the arete to the left for the taller (and shorter) Gent.. soft at 7B

[andyd]

Doesn't it get 7a or + in the guide? Good problem.

It's good, but probably 7a+ at the most.

[rich d]

What about fight on black at widdop. Not peak but closer to you? Great line, fairly quick drying, might be a bit reach for a midget I suppose.

[moose]

Doesn't it get 7a or + in the guide? Good problem.

It's good, but probably 7a+ at the most.

Is that for the sit start - I had a quick play and couldn't get anywhere near it.  That said, it was dirty and the prospect of a heel-hook failing and my flying off into a bad landing was praying on my mind - might have to get some beta and revisit.

[andyd]

Doesn't it get 7a or + in the guide? Good problem.

It's good, but probably 7a+ at the most.

Is that for the sit start - I had a quick play and couldn't get anywhere near it.  That said, it was dirty and the prospect of a heel-hook failing and my flying off into a bad landing was praying on my mind - might have to get some beta and revisit.

Yes. Sit start with two pads and a trustworth spotter. I've tussled with it on warm evenings on my own in the dark, but did it on Sunday first go with the above spec'. Class none the less.

On another note, whilst I climbed in the peak a lot over the last few years, I really can't understand why you'd want to leave an area so rich in classic problems to find a climb of a certain grade. I've done dozens of yorkshire problems in the 7a to 7b+ range over the last 6 months and I've only just scraped the surface. The peak is great, don't get me wrong, but maybe you need to get on Yorkshire grit and go and find some hidden gems. 

[tommytwotone]

Take your point Andy, I'm not disputing that there is bags of quality in Yorkshire (in fact I think the 7a/+ stuff I've done here is better than some of the equivalent Peak based stuff!).

It's more that if I'm being totally focused on getting a 7b ticked, which I'm aware is some pretty base grade-chasing, I need to be realistic about the probability of being able to get on it the one day a week that I get to go out, when the conditions are going to be favourable etc etc.

I mean, Ben's Groove is no doubt a top line, may be awesome climbing but I wouldn't know...I've never got further than move 2 because the things always got a massive wet streak down it. Ditto Ringpiece - been twice in the last couple of months and the right crux hold was gopping.

All that said, some top recommendations for Yorkshire stuff on here - will be checking Energy Etc and will tickle the aforementioned Silver Trout next time I'm at The Cliff...got to be preferable to frustrating myself on Demon Wall Roof again!

[SA Chris]

What about Baby Spice @ Ilkley? I've always liked the look of it, but never got very far (out of my abilities though) quite high, but good landing with a couple of pads and a spotter.

[SA Chris]

or you could just scroll through this

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/search.html?action=search&text=7b

til something clicks.

[nik at work]

If you've got a bit of sloper "feel" then (the previously mentioned) Zaff's at Secret Garden is a good call for Peak based 7b.

For Yorkshire Grouch at Brimham is a good call, Crimpy Roof is quite reachy if you don't have the reach from what I remember.

Don't go for Fight on Black if heading over Widdop way (it's reachy), instead tromp up the hill side on the other side of the road to the far end of Scout Crag where there is a 7b low roofy thing the name of which I can't recall...

[andy_e]

Boggy's Roof?

[nik at work]

That's the badger.

[andy_e]

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=scout__sooty#comments

Harder for the short perhaps according to Oracle of Wisdom BenF...

[nik at work]

A certified midget climbs it in the video though...

[andy_e]

A certified strong midget climbs it in the video though...

[nai]

If you've got a bit of sloper "feel" then (the previously mentioned) Zaff's at Secret Garden is a good call for Peak based 7b.

That's you and travs that have said that.  So what's the short beta?  I really struggle - match the lip then one hand up to sloper with a foot in back, try to throw a heel up and end up swinging off.

And I have a sloper feel, done everything else on that block bar Middle Man & LHM Direct.

[Nigel]

I'm not particularly short (5'9", 0 ape) but I always do this problem by getting a left heel on when matched on the sloper rail, then rolling up semi-dynamically with left hand straight to sloper. There is a bit of micro-beta, which is to pinch thumbs under lip when putting heel round, then moving RH rightwards along rail to best bit before move to sloper. You do need to be quite flexible for this.