UKBouldering.com

Amenable first Peak Font 7b (Read 41360 times)

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20287
  • Karma: +642/-11
#25 Re: Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 02:45:23 pm
Sean's Arete at Curbar is classic for 7b and doesn't need a spot, but it's a big move.


Its not a HUUUGE move, but a fairly large one - would have thought its within range... (happy to help/provide beta etc..) isnt this on Nai's hit list too?

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4009
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#26 Re: Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 02:55:56 pm
It is, sort of, but I haven't been on it for a couple of seasons because it's a HUUUUGE move and the pebble wrecks tips on my left hand.

being of similar stature and vaguely knowing 3T's strengths I'd say Piss would be a favourite, with stuff like Zippy's and SOTG (though I found this a bit meh) just behind

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9934
  • Karma: +561/-8
#27 Re: Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 03:04:36 pm
Made in Sheffield, Houndkirk is another belter
Recently did Purple Haze Low which I thought was a brilliant 7b. Requires two pads and no spotter.

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4009
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#28 Re: Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 04:22:53 pm
Made in Sheffield, Houndkirk is another belter

One I have to get back to but on a first visit found it quite reachy getting the crimp (I've got your back, 3T)

205Chris

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1150
  • Karma: +126/-0
#29 Re: Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 05:36:23 pm
Do you have a preferred style (slopers / crimps / slabs / prows / technical / powerful etc.)? If you're looking to break a new grade then playing to your strengths often helps. It's probably also worth finding something that inspires you, if you're involved in a multi session project it needs to be suitably inspiring to motivate you to get down from Leeds time and time again.

Picking a project at a venue with other problems around will help as it will give you something to warm up on and move on to when / if you start getting bored. Made in Sheffield is a great problem but it's really a one problem venue.

Finding problems that allow you to work all the moves individually will help a lot too (Captain Hook / Electrical Storm / Zippy's Traverse / Mark's Roof would all fit this bill).

Another plan might be to head to a venue like Gardoms where there are a multitude of great 7Bs (Kidneystone / Mark's Roof / Perfect Day Direct / Soft on the G / Suavito / Pogle's Wood), try them all and pick the one that suits you best.



mark20

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 877
  • Karma: +128/-0
#30 Re: Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 05:48:04 pm
A Case of Mistaken Identity is a good call. Some nice warm ups on the Cube block just next to it and you can work all the moves individually. Not that hard when it's this cold either

dave

  • Guest
#31 Re: Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 05:51:16 pm
Chris is right, much as Made In Sheffield is great I wouldn't dedicate 50% of my weekend to it by driving from Leeds. Its one for locals on an evening-after-work tip really.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20287
  • Karma: +642/-11
#32 Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 05:56:50 pm


Another plan might be to head to a venue like Gardoms where there are a multitude of great 7Bs (Kidneystone / Mark's Roof / Perfect Day Direct / Soft on the G / Suavito / Pogle's Wood), try them all and pick the one that suits you best.

That's what Tom describes as the TT nightclub pulling strategy for boulder problems ;)

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4009
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#33 Re: Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 06:10:08 pm
Tom, just curious as you're in Leeds, why not target something closer to home?
Must be plenty to go at if you can stop going to the cliff every week.. :shrug:

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20287
  • Karma: +642/-11
#34 Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 06:17:27 pm
Not so many 7B's at da Cliff... Slopey traverse, stuff on front of virgin.. #notinspiring

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
#35 Re: Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 06:17:45 pm
good point: just pick some at Earl, which is pretty much the Peak anyway. Or Ben's at Caley.

i_a_coops

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 521
  • Karma: +51/-2
    • Ian Cooper
#36 Re: Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 06:18:34 pm
Ringpiece at Ilkley?

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4009
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#37 Re: Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 06:30:56 pm
Not so many 7B's at da Cliff... Slopey traverse, stuff on front of virgin.. #notinspiring

That was my point and cofe & i_a_coops have identified a couple of decent options, sure there's something at Brimham too but it's not coming to mind

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20287
  • Karma: +642/-11
#38 Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 06:39:44 pm
What about that 7B that Will just did at Ilkly Rocky Valley.. (There was a vid of it..)

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4009
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#39 Re: Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 07:03:05 pm


and this may be of use:


Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2956
  • Karma: +162/-8
#40 Re: Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 07:40:58 pm
Not so many 7B's at da Cliff... Slopey traverse, stuff on front of virgin.. #notinspiring

That was my point and cofe & i_a_coops have identified a couple of decent options, sure there's something at Brimham too but it's not coming to mind

The grouch? negative send by myself but looked pretty good!

Grubes

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1440
  • Karma: +50/-0
  • Fat and Weak
#41 Re: Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 08:46:23 pm
-edit- not a good suggestion ignore me
« Last Edit: January 15, 2013, 08:54:22 pm by Grubes »

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3637
  • Karma: +200/-3
#42 Re: Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 09:35:53 pm
Tom, just curious as you're in Leeds, why not target something closer to home?
Must be plenty to go at if you can stop going to the cliff every week.. :shrug:

Insert your own joke here about Peak 7bs compared to Yorkshire 7bs...!  ;)

T2's right, been struggling to find something reliably dry / inspiring / not reachy up this way (e.g. Ben's Groove is awesome, had a session on it but can't really be bothered gambing on the 5 days a year when it's dry and in also conditions are favourable...). That said, Energy Follows Thought looks like a contender, need to go and check it - looks like the sort of weird thrutchy funk that I prefer.

Cheers for the Peak-based responses all, will have a trawl through and digest properly. From checking in briefly today between what's been a very hectic day I think Piss, David, Soft On The G and Sparks all look like good contenders, plus Boyager if I can campaign for a posse to get out for a team send.





tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 20287
  • Karma: +642/-11
#43 Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 10:24:05 pm
Gardoms North on Sat then? :)

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3637
  • Karma: +200/-3
#44 Re: Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 10:30:09 pm
Something like that, especially if conditions are looking like last weekend this coming weekend!

Incidentally, for Soft On The G, am I right in thinking that starting with a high left as per this vid is legit for the grade?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=qpEZV-qKxCo#!


a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#45 Re: Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 10:41:21 pm
Jobs doesn't want me to watch the vid but you do start with a high left hand, n right on vertical hold

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5770
  • Karma: +229/-4
#46 Re: Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 10:51:27 pm
I started on those holds, but guppying/cusping the arete.

dunnyg

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1523
  • Karma: +91/-7
#47 Re: Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 15, 2013, 11:11:44 pm
TomTom - silver trout (soft), cherry falls right, and underhand are all worth a bash, but Im sure im telling you stuff you already know... that thing at gardoms looks good though!

The sherif at woodhouse, and various versions on the same block are worth a look - not peak, but a good 7B. Greenwing at baildon bank is ok if you like baildon bank. Theres some other stuff to play on there too. crimpy roof at brimham, I thought was a good play at around the same grade if you are having a powerful day.


Dont know anything that anyone has said about the peak though. Sorry....


Robl

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 136
  • Karma: +1/-0
  • A bit of an animal
#48 Re: Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 16, 2013, 08:37:46 am
I find the last move on crimpy roof desperate (edit: most of crimpy roof desperate) You do have a touch more span tho Tom. Silver trout is easy for 7b, but not that good.
All good suggestions so far.

If you need A.N other for boyager, I may grow a pair and some with.

andyd

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1173
  • Karma: +52/-2
    • https://vimeo.com/user14959179
#49 Re: Amenable first Peak Font 7b
January 16, 2013, 11:09:59 am
Grouch good
Crimpy wall good
Ringpiece good
Energy follows-reeeeeeachy
 

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal