[cha1n]

My progression from climbing alone has slowed massively, so I've bought a beastmaker and draped it in the garage and I've done my 3rd ever fingerboarding session! The only problem is that I'm getting some very irritating pain (see my previous thread for details http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21396.0.html ) and I think it's partially down to my technique.

See below the technique that's hurting my shoulder:

(Back View)



(Side View)



You may not notice from the images above, but I'm actively pulling my shoulder blades backwards, downwards but also outwards as if I'm drawing my elbows in towards my ears. See the image below of an extreme version of what I mean by pulling the elbows back:



Now I don't know why I'm doing the outward thing, but I'm certain that it's this motion that's hurting my shoulder (though strangely only my left one). I started using a different technique where I'm pulling the shoulders back and down, but not outward. You'll see in the images below that my elbows are slightly narrower from the back view and I'm much more horizontal from the side view - is this a bad thing? I hope not because it's much more comfortable!!!

(Back View - No Outward pulling of the shoulder blades)



(Side View - No Outward pulling of the shoulder blades)



Ok... Sorry about the essay but I'm really keen to get this right being a I start the transition from mere mortal to beast. Cheers!

[Three Nine]

my critique is that you're hanging off jugs

[cha1n]

Give me a chance, I've only just started!

What about the form? See any problems with the second set of pictures (other than the jugs I'm swinging about on)?

[tomtom]

Keep the elbows in, and you only need to bend your arms a little (so they are not locked straight out..)

[cha1n]

Cheers Tom. I'd read that you need to keep the elbows slightly bent, I didn't realise I was overdoing it!

Looking forward to a proper session now, it's been scary finding out just how weak my fingers are, well good too as it means I've got lots of progression to come (hopefully)!

[Gritlad]

I have no knowledge of any of this sort of thing at all but.....
Could it be that when your using it your bending your neck and body a little to look at the clock for the timings?
Don't know if you do even use the clock or if that would cause any muscle ache, but surely having the clock there is at least a ball ache?
Ignore this if you wish....

[cha1n]

Thanks for the suggestion. I do the counting in my head, it's my mates garage (I have a key) and I've hinted that the clock is in a weird place but he's keen to keep it where it is, like I say, I don't really use it.

I'm sure I was just hanging in a weird way. I'm going to try a session with proper technique tomorrow and see if it makes any difference!

[Tombondphysio]

position of your shoulder blades looks much better in the second set of pictures - you don't want your shoulder blades outwards, as this will cause shoulder problems such as changing the movement ratio between your shoulder blade and humerus

agree with the elbows too

[erm, sam]

The shouty American man at MobilityWOD has posted several posts about externally vs internally rotating arms and how this effects stability etc. They might have some reference to what you are expereinceing with the two positions:

http://www.mobilitywod.com/2012/10/what-your-bent-elbows-really-mean-elbow-pain-and-instability.html is one of them

Might be vaugely helpful.

[Pebblespanker]

Get a cheap wall clock (IKEAs are good and cheap £2-£3) with a loud (ish) tick, hang it nearby on a nail or such like and do the timings properly by ear - you don't need to turn your head to look at a clock or watch, I used to count in my head too then was amazed when I got a clock at how off my timings atually were - also allows accurate measure of progression and prevents the self-bullshitting syndrome

Good luck!

[mloskot]

Get a cheap wall clock (IKEAs are good and cheap £2-£3) with a loud (ish) tick

or get a simple interval timer on your laptop. There are plenty of nice apps for Linux, OSX or Windows.

Here is one I'm testing on Windows 8

[Durbs]

Or the free Beastmaker app n'est pas?

[Paul B]

Here is one I'm testing on Windows 8

Do you have a link to that? I'm currently using impetus on my Android phone. They updated it about 6 months ago, basically allowing you to have all of the pro-features for free.

[cha1n]

I'd been using the free beastmaker trainer app since my second session. I was being too sloppy with rest times, making it easier for myself. I don't like putting myself through discomfort you see!

Basic but does the job.