[cha1n]

aI get some pain around the bottom of my left Scapula (the pointy bit) after fingerboarding.

This is only my third fingerboard session spread fairly equally between a 1 year period because this always happens so I just sack it off. Unfortunately I really need to increase my finger strength so I need to persist.

It feels like it's got something to do with being front on, I don't have great flexibility in my shoulders even just holding my shoulders in a front on hanging position is uncomfortable and I don't get any pain whilst climbing. I'm trying to conciously pull my shoulder blades back and down when hanging but doing this didn't completely solve the issue.

Has anyone else encountered this/have any insight?

Cheers

[cha1n]

After looking at some shoulder anatomy diagrams I would say the issue is the tendon where the teres major attaches to the scapula (looking at the shoulders from the back):



*** EDIT *** after looking at a bunch more diagrams it could be any of the muscles that attach at the very tip of the shoulder blade. I'm more interested in why and how than specifically where though to be honest.

I'll do a bit of reading into the function of teres major and look for some info myself but if anyone can help that'd be great.

[mrjonathanr]

Short of seeing a physio, I'd do some reading on  shoulder flexibility exercises.  Or even better, find a yoga class.

[duncan]

Where we feel pain is often a poor guide as to the source of pathology (and it's common to have pain with no pathology at all).  So pain in the area of the scapula you describe could be due to a problem with lower part of the neck for example:



I have no idea if this is true for you but you could pay attention to your head position whilst fingerboarding and see if maintaining good 'form' (head level, chin tucked in a little) makes any difference.  Shark posted some 'climbers back' stretches on here some time ago which might also help.  Filming yourself might give you a clue as to whether this mechanism is likely.

Mostly probably, it is simply that you are pulling harder than usual with muscles in a shorter position than usual (due to being front on) and feeling a little sore as a result.  Halve the number of repetitions in the session and build back up slowly. 

Usual disclaimers regarding internet medical advice apply.

[cha1n]

Thanks guys.

Thanks for that insight Duncan, I found the information very interesting. I'll definitely pay a bit more attention to head position, possibly get a video up.

After further prodding about, it seems that the pain isn't the shoulder blade tip at all. If I pull my left arm across my chest, so that the shoulder blade rolls out across the rib cage the pain doesn't move with the scapula. The pain seems to be localised in the muscle behind where the tip of the scapula usually sits, perhaps the Latissimus Dorsi? I'm certain that it's at some tendon though because there is a noticeable lump where the pain is (the lump is present in the same place on the other side so I'm sure it's meant to be there) so I think it's just that the tip of the scapula is aggravating this 'lump' in it's normal, retracted position.