Return of the Gunfighter beta, Cheddar (Read 1714 times)


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Return of the Gunfighter beta, Cheddar
January 05, 2013, 02:22:26 pm
I composed this for a mate ages ago. Been languishing in my sent items since then so might as well share for all the southern-based readers here.

First 2 bolts long reach from corner
Crimp/high undercling traverse
Left on lower sidepull for 3rd clip
Right into low undercling, right? foot on obvious slopy rubbery nobble,
left up to poor sidepull on next step.
left foot on high matchstick edge level with hand.
Right into undercling on next step (hard).
Pull hard, twist and rest right shoulder on stepped left-facing face
(quick insecure feeling but not strenuous shake possible)
Wriggle right onto finger edge on right around head height
Left to positive side pull quite far right. Clip.
Right foot across, slap right for sidepull 2 foot left, best bit
slightly higher.
Heel on left facing edge, quick shake possible
Left on left sidepull infront of you, walk feet to the right, dyno for
the jug (fridge-hugging sequence also possible but 4 more moves before
the rest).
Once on jug left kneebar goodish rest possible for the clip.
Or just chuck for the goodish left sidepull, left heel to right hand,
sit right down and get a handsfree (body tension required).
Right hand undercling pinch, pull through for edge over next overlap
Right food swing right onto v obvious good foothold on other wall,
push, palm and scrabble into bridging rest.
Possible to get right heel on to rest calf.
Proper shake out
Left hand on tiny edge that u want to get ur right on. Delicately walk
feet across to crucial triangle little pocket edge thing, good right
flatty and pull into giant undercling on big hanging block
Thug through hang block quickly on jugs into a right kneebar. Possible
to get brief hands-off but hard to get kneebar good enuf.
Start of redpoint crux section.
Straight from kneebar, big pull to get right hand into obvious
sidepull/undercling behind block.
Walk feet up right and full stretch into poor left hand edge. kick
left foot out into jugs u used on kneebar rest. Edge starts to feel
ok, right into backmost vague jug.
Quick shake.
Left on little edge to nudge right into poorer jug giving you better
reach for the crux).
Right foot smear on wall and launch for higher sidepull pinch.
Fee crucial here: full stretch get left foot on low hidden edge.
Right hand matchstick edge
Right food higher hidden edge.
Left foot right out onto other wall into vague bridge.
Delicately work up and right on tiny edges.
Vague rests possible on undercling thumb-sprit or by moving far left.
Use crimps on big block with peg to get feet low and right to gain big
jugs with good feet and good rest.
Head up and left into corner again, crucial left foot to get solid in
thin groove.
Straight up possible here but moving right to use the good flatties
poss slightly easier. Work up on these till they run out and quickly
get re-established in the groove.
Final delicate slab to finish.
Left foot on good nobble, gently stand up on tiny handholds.
Swap feet and pull up left for sloper.
Use matchstick edge for left to get left foot up.
Reach right for good undercling pocket jug to finish.


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