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Power Club 2012 review (Read 7608 times)

tomtom

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Power Club 2012 review
January 02, 2013, 04:19:08 pm
Hello,
Forgive me for breaking the cycle, but I thought it might be interesting to break down the stats (my stats) for my last years power club entrys (anyone else fancy posting up?)... theres lots of ways to do it, but my breakdown is:

Bouldering outdoors     73
Climbing wall visits       19
BMaker/campusboard   7
Weeks of no climbing    11

That works out at a mean 2.11 sessions a week (training and climbing) or 2.68 if you take out the no weeks. Other things from my data shows, that I only climbed 5 new 7's (I aimed to do 30!!), had 13 sessions on the Keel and 4 on West side story.

I'm pretty pleased that I've managed to keep above 2 a week despite a surprising number of nothing weeks (I thought there were only a couple!). Its also interesting that I've only managed a few new hard problems. Re-reading my posts it feels like the first 8 months of the year were a battle to stay vaguely in shape whilst working hard (too hard I suspect) - only in the last few months have things become more structured, which is largely based around a Keel fixation ;)

My breakdown of venues is of the 73,

1 Lakes (Carrock)
18 Peak (including Holmfirth)
24 Almscliff (no surprises!)
30 Cheshire Sandstone (surprised at this..)

shark

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#1 Re: Power Club 2012 review
January 02, 2013, 07:41:43 pm
Bouldering outdoors                                     25
Routes outdoors                                           43
Bouldering/routes at climbing walls              52
Deadhanging/campusboard sessions           64
Systems board/PE stamina circuit sessions  52
Weights                                                        11
Runs                                                               7
Physio visits                                                   6
Weeks of no climbing (ie 7 consecutive days)2

Quite a few of the above were sessions at different times of the same day. I did 212 days with exercise. Quite frankly, with the amount I do I should be awesome  :'(

tomtom

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#2 Re: Power Club 2012 review
January 02, 2013, 07:59:31 pm
Wow Shark - thats loads...

nai

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#3 Re: Power Club 2012 review
January 02, 2013, 08:53:09 pm
. Quite frankly, with the amount I do I should be awesome  :'(

Maybe you need to address a specific weakness?


nai

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#4 Re: Power Club 2012 review
January 02, 2013, 09:12:20 pm
climbing days 96 - no further breakdown but maybe 70-20-10 bouldering-sport-trad & 90-10 Peak- elsewhere
fingerboarding -  50
foot on campussing - 37
CV stuff - 14
weights 4/bodywork - 20
weeks of no climbing - 2 (1 feb half term, 1 post 6 days-on in font)

281 exercise sessions in 203 days, 334 hours duration (this doesn't seem to add up)

157 climbs logged (this will only be new stuff or what I would class as a significant repeat)

climbed hardest boulder, sport and trad grade this year
26 new grade 7 boulder problems

But quite frankly, with the amount I do....
« Last Edit: January 02, 2013, 09:25:16 pm by nai »

scottygillery

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#5 Re: Power Club 2012 review
January 02, 2013, 10:09:00 pm
Bouldering outdoors                                     25
Routes outdoors                                           43
Bouldering/routes at climbing walls              52
Deadhanging/campusboard sessions           64
Systems board/PE stamina circuit sessions  52
Weights                                                        11
Runs                                                               7
Physio visits                                                   6
Number of times climbed Austrian Oak               0
Weeks of no climbing (ie 7 consecutive days)2

Quite a few of the above were sessions at different times of the same day. I did 212 days with exercise. Quite frankly, with the amount I do I should be awesome  :'(

shark

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#6 Re: Power Club 2012 review
January 02, 2013, 10:27:58 pm
Number of times climbed Austrian Oak               0



You cut me deep

tomtom

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#7 Power Club 2012 review
January 02, 2013, 11:26:45 pm
Number of times climbed Austrian Oak               0



You cut me deep

How many Oak sessions Shark?

slackline

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#8 Re: Power Club 2012 review
January 03, 2013, 08:08:09 am
If you want to do this sort of summary is it worth looking into some training diary software as an adjunct to the forum?

Not sure whats out there, but its would make it a lot easier than finding your posts from each week of PowerClub.

If there's no off-the shelf FOSS solutions available, maybe something bespoke for the site could be knocked up by some of the web-developers who frequent the site? :shrug:

shark

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#9 Re: Power Club 2012 review
January 03, 2013, 09:12:46 am
Number of times climbed Austrian Oak               0



You cut me deep

How many Oak sessions Shark?

I know I had 24 visits to Malham. Without checking I'd guess 18 of them would have been on the Oak but probably only 2 or 3 sessions in good conditions. Clearly the route is at my limit and I need a couple of weeks of consistently good conditions which didn't happen. With hindsight I would have been better off doing something else last year. Hey ho.

nai

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#10 Re: Power Club 2012 review
January 03, 2013, 09:40:49 am
If you want to do this sort of summary is it worth looking into some training diary software as an adjunct to the forum?

Not sure whats out there, but its would make it a lot easier than finding your posts from each week of PowerClub.

If there's no off-the shelf FOSS solutions available, maybe something bespoke for the site could be knocked up by some of the web-developers who frequent the site? :shrug:

I use UKC's diary but it's not very good at doing these final summaries, it gives total duration/month but not totals for the month/year or breakdowns by sub category which would be more useful. 

There are free ones out there, e.g.

http://home.trainingpeaks.com

but obviously pretty generic, maybe need to spend some time seeing of it can be tailored to climbing
 

fried

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#11 Re: Power Club 2012 review
January 04, 2013, 11:44:30 am
A quick review tells me I've climbed:-

Indoors - 75
Outdoors - 28 (at least half of which was child-herding)
Non-climbing - 3 weeks (injured)

My bleu.info stats tell me that outside of the summer holidays I climbed outside a grand total of 8 times :spank:

slackline

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#12 Re: Power Club 2012 review
January 04, 2013, 12:08:45 pm
I use UKC's diary but it's not very good at doing these final summaries, it gives total duration/month but not totals for the month/year or breakdowns by sub category which would be more useful. 

There are free ones out there, e.g.

http://home.trainingpeaks.com

but obviously pretty generic, maybe need to spend some time seeing of it can be tailored to climbing

You can however export everything thats been logged and summarise as you please (if so inclined).  :geek:

nai

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#13 Re: Power Club 2012 review
January 04, 2013, 12:46:01 pm
in logbook yes, not in diary I don't think.

I did however feel inclined to go and count everything up, cheers for that tomtom, but it means precisely fuck all other than my estimates were about right.

97 times out climbing (Peak 79, font 6, other uk 12)
Bouldering 76 (13 lime, 5 yorks grit cliff, 1 West Grit, 6 font, 5 other, rest will be Eastern (inc Southern) Grit )
sport 13 - 9x Tor, 2x Malham, 2x Two-Tier
Trad 8 - 4 grit, 4 stoney



slackline

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#14 Re: Power Club 2012 review
January 04, 2013, 01:12:35 pm
in logbook yes, not in diary I don't think.


Theres a diary?!?!

EDIT : So there is, looks like it uses the data from the logbook as there's stuff in there that I did on New Years Day but only entered in the logbook.  Just tried entering something (last night at t'Foundry) into the diary to see if it the showed up in the Logbook export and unfortunately it doesn't.  Time for a feature request I feel.

Duma

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#15 Re: Power Club 2012 review
January 05, 2013, 10:26:28 pm
Good thread.
Climbing sessions:
72 (indoor 55 outdoor 17, or bloc 65 route 7)
pretty pleased with this considering I spent 87days off injured in may/june/july and was only once a week for 7 weeks after that while rehabbing wrist. Works out at just under twice a week when climbing, or just over twice a week when climbing relatively unrestricted). Also it seems I climbed every week except the mid May - mid Aug injury lay off
running sessions:
30
less excuse for not making my once a week target here - was well ahead at the 6 month stage but the heat in summer reduced enthusiasm, and then once I was allowed to climb again that took over.

webbo

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#16 Re: Power Club 2012 review
January 08, 2013, 01:04:48 pm
Outdoor sessions 24
Indoor sessions 118 :o
Weights 26 sessions
Finger board sessions 1
Cycling 3,900 miles
Turbo sessions 34.
Weeks with no climbing 2
I need to get out more and not on my bike.

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#17 Re: Power Club 2012 review
January 09, 2013, 11:50:41 pm
Bottom Line, Way too much.... My wife must really love me :)

Total Workout days: 314
Bouldering days: 92
     Inside: 52
     Outside: 40
Routes: 30
     Inside: 29
     Outside: 1
FB Workouts: 82
     Repeaters: 40
     Max Hangs: 42
Running: 113 times for 550 miles
Weights: 48 (mostly in the 4th quarter)
Other: 50

Some days had multiple workouts :)

Other stuff:
Most days off in a row: 3
Injuries: 2 Foot and ankle

nai

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#18 Re: Power Club 2012 review
January 10, 2013, 08:21:18 am
Bottom Line, Way too much.... My wife must really love me :)

Total Workout days: 314
Some days had multiple workouts :)

wow, that's only one non-active day per week, 86%  :o

I was hoping for 4-5 days per week about 60%.  Actual was 56%, just shy of 4days.  Guess quality is better than quantity though, right?

Richie Crouch

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#19 Re: Power Club 2012 review
January 10, 2013, 09:09:01 am
Indoor bouldering: 125
Outdoor bouldering: 77- uk 46, font 11, Swiss 20
Outdoor routes: 2- Oz 2
Weights: 7
Swimming: 6

More weights needed this year (and dry uk weather?)

Sasquatch

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#20 Re: Power Club 2012 review
January 10, 2013, 06:59:03 pm
Bottom Line, Way too much.... My wife must really love me :)

Total Workout days: 314
Bouldering days: 92
     Inside: 52
     Outside: 40
Routes: 30
     Inside: 29
     Outside: 1
FB Workouts: 82
     Repeaters: 40
     Max Hangs: 42
Running: 113 times for 550 miles
Weights: 48 (mostly in the 4th quarter)
Other: 50

Some days had multiple workouts :)

Other stuff:
Most days off in a row: 3
Injuries: 2 Foot and ankle

And the fun stuff

New problems put up: 115
Average Grade of new problems: V4.2

Guidebooks Written: 0.5

Wobblers: 1.5   One full on screamer, and one half hearted whimper.....


andy_e

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#21 Re: Power Club 2012 review
January 11, 2013, 09:21:36 am
New problems put up: 115
Average Grade of new problems: V4.2

How does that break down? One 8A+ and 114 V3s?  ;)

Sasquatch

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#22 Re: Power Club 2012 review
January 11, 2013, 03:58:04 pm
New problems put up: 115
Average Grade of new problems: V4.2

How does that break down? One 8A+ and 114 V3s?  ;)

Naw.....   2 8A+, and 113 v0's :)

 

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