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Investigation of break strains of 'fixed' gear (Read 2398 times)

slackline

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Obi-Wan is lost...

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Interesting. I hadn't heard of the use of the 'CE' logo to mean 'China Export'. Well dodgy.  :spank:

petejh

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I didn't find this report very relevant to the UK, although the point about CE marking is interesting. I don't think 'hardware store' carabiners are commonly used on sport route lower-offs in this country.  Maybe in Italy?

slackline

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Don't know about you, but I've climbed in Italy, France and Spain multiple times, so felt it was quite relevant.  ;)

Johnny Brown

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Quote
I began collecting them after a carabiner which I'd removed from a belay "opened" at 920 daN (a metric unit equivalent to circa 1 kg).

This initial statement is a tad confusing on first read - he means 1daN is equivalent to 1kg. Maybe I'm a retard.

IE, 920 daN = 9.2kN, a force broadly equivalent to 920kg. This would be more than acceptable as a gate open strength (typical minimum of 7kN) but pretty weak for a new krab with gate closed (typically 20kN plus).

The China Export logo is a new one on me - very worrying!

galpinos

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The China Export logo is a new one on me - very worrying!

We had a few issues a couple of years ago with this. At a casual glance, they look very similar.

Nibile

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I have had quite a few arguments with Emanuele on an Italian forum in the past years, I find him very presumptuous and annoying, but I must congrat him for his neverending job of fixing bolts, chains and generally making crags a lot safer.
Something that is really priceless and spreads knowledge.

 

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