I'm starting a postgrad research degree in climbing movement next year
Quote from: thekettle on December 19, 2012, 04:01:25 pmI'm starting a postgrad research degree in climbing movement next yearAt the University of Boulders?
I'm starting a postgrad research degree in climbing movement next year, and have an article on technique training here.http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4383
I think its useful to try and notice (or listen to criticism) and try to break out of the repertoire of moves you are locked into.
Elements of technique include pace, balance, reading sequences, movement initiation, momentum and body positioning...
Lets start with a generic definition of rock climbing technique: The methods of applying strength, momentum, and balance to move across stone.Anyone have any good comments on the above definition? Remember that there are no good or bad techniques, a technique is simply a technique. I think what we as climbers are looking for is "effecient" technique. This can be found in many ways, but generally this comes back to the individual climber. I distinctly remember Boone Speed talking about this with Dale Goddard in the "Fast Twitch" Video after watching a young Chris Sharma break all the classic "technique" rules, and it's always stuck with me.
So if we start from there (although I disagree that reading sequences is a matter of technique), then how do we identify and measure technique efficiency for these?
And not to forget, that "strength" is often mistaken for "technique".
Like everything else in climbing, "good technique" is so subjective it is almost meaningless. For campus board lovers with no core, going footless is often the best way to quickly dispatch a hard roof section.
The Dura Dura section in the real rock tour shows Sharma having to Dyno past all of the awkward moves that Adam floats up struggles on extensively.
Put your forearm next to your thigh and you realise you already have all the power you need; you just need to work out how to use it.
Quote from: 2 Tru on December 20, 2012, 12:10:02 pmPut your forearm next to your thigh and you realise you already have all the power you need; you just need to work out how to use it.Kneebar ?