Ok. Dream of wild turkeys at red rocks is apparently very good but we never got round to it.
A problem with Yosemite is the guidebook situation is dire. The Reid guide is 20 years old and was sketchy even then. Supertopo has a very limited selection and the approach and decent information are not that super either. It really helps if you have someone familiar with the area in tow on many routes. There are dozens, if not hundreds, of gems scattered around that hardly anyone climbs now because they are not in rockfaxsupertopo. Who has done things like Spideman or Vanishing Point (Sentinel Creek) except perhaps tommy and TobyD?
Indian CreekI intend to read this months Climber and extract the relevant info but I'd be grateful of recommendations across the board.
Eldorado CanyonThe Naked Edge (5.11b)Rosy Crucifixion (3 pitches, low .10)Longs PeakRifleBlack CanyonThe Scenic Cruise (5.10+)MoabFine Jade (5.11a)Ancient Arts (5.8 / A0) *Primrose Dihedrals (5.11c / A0) *, **Lightening Bolt Cracks (5.11)Castleton Tower, Kor/Ingalls (4 pitches, low .10) ... if you're quick, can be combined with Fine Jade in a daySister Superior, Jah Man (5 pitches, mid .10) Standing Rock, Kor route (4 pitches, high .10) ... truly amazing, the definitive desert tower, but hard to access: ideally charm a local to join you ZionMonkey Finger (5.12b / C2)Shune's Buttress (5.11)Sunlight Buttress, Kolob Canyons (5.11b) **Tricks of the Trade (5.10+) **Space Shot (5.6 / C2)Moonlight Buttress (5.9 / C1)Sheer Lunacy (5.9 / C2)Kolob Canyons (Zion) - single pitch basic sport climbingIndian CreekHands:Incredible handcrackLuxury liner (a.k.a. Supercrack of the desert)Blue SunBig handsSteve Carruther's Memorial (close to 50 m)Dead Crow (PG13, about 45 m, there is a "secret" extension if you are up for some awkward off-width)Think PinkThin hands:Wild CatPente9 livesScarfaceSlot MachineThin hands/fingerstacksWay RamboSlice and dice (pure fingerstacks for me)Sacred Cow (same, but I have very thick fingers/hands and for some this is a pure thin hands crack)Coyne CrackDouble Bock (short fierce section of ring-locks)FingersJohnny CatHydraulic Pump (fingers crux, then mostly lay-backing, bump gear for glory)Power Line (but PAINFUL! small feet help)Gurkha (big fingers help)Off widthBig baby (the guidebook is dangerously wrong: camalot #6 mandatory for the last bit)Serrator (quite easy, good introduction to Leavittation, probably only 5.10/+)Big Guyetc.... (they are all good)Mixed sizesBig catDos HermanosAnunnakiDancing QueenLaybacksA list for when you want some fast and easy ticks:Battle of the BulgeTips Lie BackLayaway planRed RocksLevitation 29, Oak Creek (5.11) ** - avoid in high windsCat in the Hat, Mescalito (5.6) - to do with my Dad whilst he's 'in town'Epinephrine, Black Velvet (5.9) **Dream of wild turkeysRisk Brothers Roof 11aCrimson Chrysalis - 5.8 - with Dad, looks much better than CITH?BishopMy ticklist is pretty sorted for here but I'd be interested in sub 7A problems that aren't too steep (or high).NeedlesSirocco, Sorcerer, East Face of the Warlock (5.10a) **Romantic Warrior, Warlock, (5.12b or 5.10 A2) **Don Juan WallAtlantisFancy FreeLove Potion No. 9Thin Ice (4 pitches, low .10 in theory though has a mad Quarryman style chimney pitch that's unrateable)Tuolumne MeadowsRegular Route, Fairview Dome (5.9) *Shipoopi, Medlicott Dome (7a+) * - glance sideways at the Bacher YarianEichorns PinnacleLucky Streaks, Blues Riff, Black Angel, Tuolomne. - caution on this one.The Incredible HulkRed Dihedrals (5.10b)Positive Vibrations (5.11a)Smith Rocks???Leavenworth - to break up the potentially long drive North.SquamishThe Grand Wall (5.11/A0) *, **Exasperator (5.10c)Crime of the Century 5.11b ishPenny Lane 5.9Partners in climb .10cClimb and Punishment 5.11aAngels Crest 5.10b - classic long 'unDaily Planet, North Walls, Squamish (take as many 1.5 friends as you can find).YosemiteNortheast Buttress, Higher Cathedral (5.9) *Serenity Crack + Sons of Yesterday, Royal Arches (5.10d) *Snake Dike, Half Dome (5.7) *Regular NW Face, Half Dome (5.10a / A1) *The Nose (5.9 / A2 or 5.10 A1) *Astroman, Washington Column (5.11c) *, **East Buttress, El Cap (5.10b)Separate Reality (5.12a)The Nabisco Wal, Cookie Cliff (5.11a) ** (Butterballs (5.11c) as well as Wheat Thin (5.10c))The Rostrum (Alien finish?), (5,11c) **Moratorium (5.11b)Braille Book (5.Royal Arches (5.7)Quicksilver (5.9 / E2)Freewheelin’ (5.10b / E3)DNB (5.11a but only one hard move / E3) - longWest Face of El Cap (5.11c)OthersWunsch's Dihedral, Cynical Pinnacle (5.11b / A0 ) **All along the watchtower, Bugaboos (5.10 / A2) ** - likely too long, most appealing line on this whole list still!N ridge of Bugaboo spireBeckey-ChouinardThe Vampire, Tahquitz Rock (5.11a) **Yellow wall, The Diamond (factor in altitude)* Parois du legende tick** Fifty favourite climbs tick
Might have already said this but: in the Moab area I would make sure you do a few towers before you go to Indian Creek. Two reasons: 1. the crack grading at IC seem much less generous than on the crack pitches on the tower routes, so you might get put off trying some tower routes unnecessarily; 2. my sense is that the classic towers would fit better with your aspirations ... you might regret spending too much time at IC.Also Mill Creek just outside Moab is brilliant - pocketty sandstone face climbing that is very atypical of the area.
The guidebook should give some indication of required rack, no?
You could always go into Wal-Mart and buy a cheap tent? Or would you need to buy stacks of other camping paraphernalia too?
have fun and congrats on marriage