This could easily pi** off many ones, but I think it's interesting. Opinions? Science? http://www.t-nation.com/free_online_article/most_recent/conditioning_is_a_sham
This may surprise some of you who think that all people must do conditioning to be fit. And I agree that past a certain point in the development of strength, some Prowler work on a regular basis is beneficial, but remember, we're talking about novices, people with no strength base, and for whom a strength base improves all aspects of performance.
He's talking about unfit, weak people reading lots of training stuff on the internet and following plans to make strong, fit people fitter. No point in making someone toss a medicine ball around for conditioning if they're weak as a kitten.
Parallel to climbing would be to suggest that time is better spent bouldering font 5-6 at your physical limit (naturally along with lots of focus on technique; Rippetoe would never let any beginner get away with bad form) instead of plodding up lots and lots of french 4-5 (or as a more extreme example, lots of VDiff). From that angle the guy has a point that's completely transferable to climbing.
novice climbers would get a lot more benefit fro doing large amounts of sub limit volume than they would thrashing away at problems at their limit which would likely lead to injuries in unprepared tendons and pulleys!
The only problem with this comparison is that it is hard to practice good technique when bouldering at your limit, and novice climbers would get a lot more benefit fro doing large amounts of sub limit volume than they would thrashing away at problems at their limit
Yes, but nobody with a clue would seriously suggest continuously trying 1RM lifts as a weight training technique, which would be somewhat analogous to continuously trying boulder problems at one's limit to the exclsuion of all else. The three to five rep range seems to be the general recommendation for strength training, rather than bodybuilding style "3 x 10" - but three to five reps is still rather a long way from 1 RM.
Quote from: Muenchener on December 12, 2012, 11:25:23 amYes, but nobody with a clue would seriously suggest continuously trying 1RM lifts as a weight training technique, which would be somewhat analogous to continuously trying boulder problems at one's limit to the exclsuion of all else. The three to five rep range seems to be the general recommendation for strength training, rather than bodybuilding style "3 x 10" - but three to five reps is still rather a long way from 1 RM.Surely the equivalent of 1RM training would be doing one move at your limit in isolation.Trying a boulder problem at one's limit (& failing on say move 3 ) would be more like three reps to failure I guess.