Any idea if it's better to increase the number of repetitions, the number of sets or increase the angle of the overhang I'm hanging? Dropping down onto smaller rungs is impossible but I can do the same size but steeper.
S: A fantastic sunny day at Avon. Started on the ramp with New Horizons 2 and Arms Race which I've wanted to do for ages. More brawn than brain but good fun. We had hoped to get on Peryl but mistimed the day and were going to run out of sun, and therefore warmth, so did Mike's Mistake and Central Buttress instead where freezing finger's didn't matter so much. Such a treat to get a good trad day at this time of year.A good week, and very pleased to still have E4 fitness.
Quote from: duncan on December 10, 2012, 07:42:48 amInterestingly/worryingly I've put on nearly 2kg in a week despite no change in diet. Is it possible you drank more alcohol than usual? I am increasingly convinced that quite small variations in alcohol consumption explain a lot of my weight variation. I am sketchy on the science here but I believe that unlike some other nutrients that the body may or may not absorb during the digestive process based on many factors, alcohol is all absorbed rapidly and has to all be metabolised rapidly (as it is a toxin).
Interestingly/worryingly I've put on nearly 2kg in a week despite no change in diet.
Let's call Arms Race F6c as a top-rope. Low Profile would be F7a on the same scale and is well within your capabilities. Like Arms Race, it is a little hard-to-read on the onsight but all the holds are there. A good first E5 for a fit sport climber.
i can't help noticing you do a lot of pull-ups for a man with bad elbows
Low Profile would be F7a on the same scale and is well within your capabilities.
Quote from: erm, sam on December 10, 2012, 07:20:42 pmThesiger, you talk about doing "technique drills" a fair bit since you moved to Squamish. Is this a common thing for Canadian climbers to do or are you particularly working with a coach for them? Still unusual to do technique drills (eg never see anybody at the wall climbing in any sort of methodical drillish fashion) in the UK though I think a lot of peeps would agree they would be useful, if only they got round to doing some.. Are you finding they are helping? What sort of things are you doing?I guess I got the idea from reading some Dave Macleod stuff and also watching that recent Sean McColl training video. No, it's nothing especially Canadian and, no, I don't have a coach. It's partly a response to trying to figure out how to make best use of a very small bouldering gym where there's a ban on marking up problems and rarely anyone else there when I go (and anyway most other users are absurdly strong). Also I am sort-of training there for my once per week bouldering session at the Hive in Vancouver, a larger more conventional bouldering gym with set graded problems. It's possible that it is actually helping as I have improved my performance at the Hive quite a lot, but that could just be down to familiarity. The main drills I have been doing are wide shouldery moves and long rock-ups/ reaches on crimps with high footholds. As symmetrically as possible. In all cases just single movements, done in sets with timed rests like any other systematic training.
Thesiger, you talk about doing "technique drills" a fair bit since you moved to Squamish. Is this a common thing for Canadian climbers to do or are you particularly working with a coach for them? Still unusual to do technique drills (eg never see anybody at the wall climbing in any sort of methodical drillish fashion) in the UK though I think a lot of peeps would agree they would be useful, if only they got round to doing some.. Are you finding they are helping? What sort of things are you doing?
Noted, and edited above. So what would be a "technique drill"?
So what would be a "technique drill"?
My new girlfriend lives in the south east
Quote from: cheque on December 11, 2012, 10:39:30 amMy new girlfriend lives in the south eastClose enough to sneak off to portland for a day?
