[shark]

11.8-9

M.
T.Shed at lunch. Eve Foundry Campus board.
W.
T.Shed at lunch. Eve Foundry Campus board. Bought a kneepad 
F.
S.PM eatswood with boys.  4th session on the traverse. Linked from jug in middle to finish. Coming together.
S. Clearing garden, etc

OK week. Getting stronger. And fatter.

[nai]

Monday Late again today
            he'd be in trouble though he'd say he was sorry
            he'd have to hurry out the bus.

Tuesday Horace was so sad
             he'd never had a girl that he could care for
             and if he was late once more he'd be out.

Wednesday Horace met a girl
                 she was small and she was very pretty
                 he thought he was in love, he was afraid.

Thursday Asks her for a date
              the cafe down the street tomorrow evening
              his head was reeling when she said "Yes O.K."

Friday Horace, this is it
         he asks the girl if maybe they could marry
         when she says "gladly." Horace cries.

Saturday - rest

Sunday: Everybody's at the church
             when Horace rushes in and says "Now here come my wife
             for the rest of my life." and she did.

[fried]

Thanks Shark.

Monday - indoor. weights, back/ shoulder stuff/ repeaters.
Tuesday -work
Wednesday - Same as above but more tired and more crap. 3rd session in 5 days isn't working at the moment. Skip the repeaters.
Thursday/ Friday - Watch the ideal conditions out of the window while working.

Saturday - Looking dodgy but risk a trip out. It's damp everywhere wander around 91.1 then virtually climb the entire blue and red circuits at Sabots. Check out Gorge aux Chats, still too damp. Talk to a couple of people from Lorraine who tell me how good the conditions were on Thursday and Friday.

Sunday - Indoor. Hungover and crap. Usual stuff. repeaters.

Weight 75.0kg

[duncan]

STG: Improve finger strength. Biscuit V3-V5 circuit. Stay uninjured.
MTG: 7b by end year.
LTG: E5, Ambitious LH+F objectives in Switzerland, Dolomites and USA.

M - The Biscuit: bouldering, half Blue V2-V4 circuit
T - Short hill run
W - Mile End: routes to 6c+ and falling practice. 
T - Short hill run
F -
S - The Biscuit: working V5s.
S - Longer run

Fall practice was good fun and definitely works!  Keep going with the fingery bouldering.

[cheque]

STG- E2 & 7A on grit this season. Maintain/ improve sport fitness over winter.
MTG- Hard crimpy redpoints on pennine lime in the summer.

M- Rest
T- Notts wall bouldering/ routes. Feeling pretty weird after a week's layoff.
W- Rest
T- Notts Depot. Feeling weak. Some new reds but not as many as hoped. A depressing reminder of how little crimp strength I have.
F- Rest
S- Rest
S- Plantation bouldering. Grit still feeling hard and alien. Got on Crescent Arete after saving it for the flash for years- didn't flash it, didn't even do it.  No excuses as conditions were ace. Dropped 70s cassette recorder on ankle on return home. Hurts like fuck.

Dogshit week climbing-wise. Unusually for me I have other things going on in my free time apart from climbing right now. Not really balancing it well.

[TobyD]

I have spent 49 minutes hanging on a beastmaker (or a core or moon board) this week. Not including rest times, or any time on the board doing core work; just endless repeaters, almost every day. Seems to be doing the trick though. 

[Muenchener]

WEEK ENDING 18th NOVEMBER

STG (this year): Steep pumpy 6b onsight, 7a redpoint.
MTG (2013):Continue to build alpine rock experience by ticking one or more long (> 20 pitches) routes and one or more big classic VI's.
   (2013):Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2
   (????): Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M.
T. Wall, Thalkirchen. Working boulder projects.
W. 
T. Office gym. Short bouldering session doing system-style fingery stuff. Overhead squats & db swings.
F.
S. Wall, Boulderwelt. Working some project problems
S. Swimming. A bit. I enjoy swimming in lakes or the sea, but don't live near either, and pools are smelly, crowded and boring. One could liken this to real versus indoor climbing, except that compared to swimming pools climbing walls are pretty f*cking brilliant.

[andy_e]

STG: Try not to skive work for grit conditions
MTG: 7C again, 1-4-7, new car
LTG: 7C+

M: Nothing. Drank loads on a school night.
T: Hung-over and tired. Couldn't be bothered going to the wall.
W: Watched Slipstones videos all morning so was too psyched to work. Asked my boss for some flexi-time (he's a climber so he understood) and went to Slipstones. Very good conditions but there was someone on Lay-By Arete so I had to stick to Sulky Little Boys for ages which I didn't do due to the landing unnerving me on the go-to-the-pocket move. By the time I could get on Lay-By it was going dark so I only managed a few goes. Made some decent progress. Nothing new climbed but a bad day at the crag is far greater than a good day in the office.
T: Wall. Flashed loads of the competition problems. Burnt off Teesside's shortest, strongest, fartiest man. Felt strong (except my skin!)
F: Rest.
S: Family. Looked like a good grit day.
S: Family. Looked like an even better grit day.

A half-decent week which has left me mega-motivated for grit but unable to touch any for a while yet. No campussing but I'm sure I'll be able to get some in this week.

[tomtom]

A tale of three crags, three counties and three different rock types. I think I may start making my power club contributions more of a rambling narrative than a day by day list - this weekly tome is probably the closest I ever come to a blog so maybe its time to start making it a bit more like that...

Anyway, Tuesday looked like a half decent day again, so I sloped off work in the afternoon and headed over to the Cliff, full of enthusiasm to get on the Keel again - after the weekend before's progress.. I'm never sure whether or not its conditions or me, but sometimes it just all works, and sometimes it doesnt.. I normally warm up on the sunny slab (it wasnt sunny..) below three swings/flying arete etc.. and its often a good barometer of how the day is due to go. As my feet skittered off normally fine smears that meant either my co-ordination or balance of pressure between foot and hand was wank - or conditions were shite. A hard one to call - probably a bit of both.. I consoled myself by playing on the phone for a bit  - warmed up the shoulders on the low three swings eliminate and decided it was time to get to work on the Keel... Its an odd fin the Keel, it always feels like I have a handful of attempts and then without warning it all fails. Arms, shoulders, core... As I pulled on I could feel the burn from Saturdays attempts and it all felt mechanical and clunky. Original stock method is getting a toe jam in the slot for the RF and an opposing heel behind the keel - then kind of cranking squeezing and praying the apparently random toe jam doesnt spit out I transfer the LH out to join the RH on the chip. This is where it normally fails after three attempts. New beta that worked well on sat involves placing (not jaming) the toe on the outfacing end of the toejam slot - with a stiff downturned boot - then getting a good opposing heel high behind the keel - and this allows me to push down with the toe, and up with the heel keeping me on much more solidly than before...



I'm a cm or two away from the pocket - I think this is now about getting the lock or the lunge right - or a locked lunge lucky locky combo together... Bizarrely I managed to occupy 90 min fecking about with this... and went home surprisingly happy. Its a shonky vid, but hopefully you get the idea - camera did quite well seeing as it as light was fading at 3:30 on a grey day...

Thursday saw me dart out of work early and meet up with Andy Popp up at Helsby... What a stunning afternoon - the low autumn sunlight with a hint of mist. Was good to see Andy and he showed me around some of the problems on the upper tier.. a couple of nice areas - and we spent a while working eliminates up and overhanging nose - that had a collection of various size/shape/slopeiness/scrittlyness pockets on it.. I didnt succeed on much, but felt like I was moving nicely - and was enjoying the challenge of thinking how to use my feet/heels on a hanging traverse problem. It didnt feel like a particularly hard work out, but I felt done in a few hours later...

Friday > Sunday a trip up to the Northern Lakes (near Dockray/Ullswater) and Friday was spent chilling, Saturday a 4 hour wander with MrsTT. Sunday was the day to get out, and I snuck out of the cottage at 8:30 - clear skies - frozen rain on the car and icing sugar on the fells above 2000ft or so. Headed up to Carrock Fell for the first time.

What a spot. I can not believe I've never been there despite staying in that part of the lakes before.. Simply superb location. I ran around like a kid in a sweet shop (a kid with wet feet nervously scrabbling over wet mossy scree that is..) taking it all in, and had a try at a circuit in the Southern Group. Superb effort to Greg for the Topo - really really clear to follow and find all the problems without a hitch. But I got up next to nothing! Gibbered my way up a couple of aretes, lost loads of skin trying slopey traverses.. Have a left calf that looks like its been wrapped in barbed wire thanks to trying Old spice (? great looking 7A) and ended up jibbering off the top moves several times on a high finishing V2/3... superb. A fantastic morning and a great way to see in year #43... I retreated battered and bruised but happy.. I often get shut down with my occasional lakeland forrays, and wonder if its just graded harder - but more realistically I suspect its a matter of getting switched on to the different rock type and climbing style that goes with it.. hands are still feeling rough 36 hours later

[Nibile]

Good week. Hard but good.
Mon - board. Super strong on old project. Vol 2. Int 8.
Tue - weights at home. One arm snatch, 2 arms snatch, press, biceps. Int 7/8.
Wed - board. Very strong on other project. Vol 2. Int 8.
Thu - board. Climbed project. PB on another one.
Fri - rest and drive to Swizzy.
Sat - bouldering in Chironico.
Sun - bouldering in Chironico.

The bouldering felt nice, despite not being used to climbing on granite and new problems. Good margin on many things, need more time to close accounts, two days are too little. Let's go. Keep the blind faith.

[rich d]

Senile dementia setting in can't remember which days I did what.
2 mins plank every day except sunday coz of ferocious hangover - 2.15 every day this week
1 session at notts depot all blues except the overhanging roof ones, started on some reds. Going to get a comp card this week
3 sessions on FB not that good but time spent hanging is never a waste. Another 3 sessions this week - front 2, middle 2, back 3 emphasis.
Did some stretching - keep at it everyday this week.
Did at least 50 pressups a day (except sunday) continue this week.
Need to eat a lot less crap and drink no beer until sat - weight goal 82kg

[Duma]

STG - Go climbing outside next week, despite the forecast
MTG - multiple 7C's this winter, 7C+
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - Ugh, coldy all day while had daughter, then nights - not fun.
T - Felt remarkably ok when I woke up in the afternoon, so TCA eve, bit more time on the comp probs from last Sat, then managed all the mens head-to-head probs on the mothership - pleased with putting these together in a session as apparently 7A, 7B+, 7B+. No shoulder discomfort at all, and only minimal wrist discomfort on a couple of moves. then nights.
W - nights.
T - TCA eve, couple more probs around 7A set on the mothership so did these, then some circuits on the 15 degree board. Stamina dodgy, but attempting to counter this with speed. Flashed the yellow 7a+, got a sequence on the white 7b+ and linked in two halves. then nights.
F - 4hrs sleep , then drive to cornwall with family to stay with more family.
S - family, eat lots.
S - family, eat lots.

70kg