[fried]

Monday - Long session 4.5h feeling good. Find I can campus. O.K it's 1-2-3-4 on 2 by 2, I never thought my shoulders would be healthy enough. Did a lot of volume. Weights/ stretching/ repeaters.

Tuesday- Wednesday - Nothing
Thursday - As above but shorter session. Benchmarked my hangs (5 sec/ 20mm edge over hanging by 20°)
Friday - Nothing
Saturday - As above. Indoor, Bit of a hungover session but O.K.
Sunday - Rest. Climbing again tomorrow.

[nai]

M - had to sack Tor as had limited hip mobility after Saturday's grit exploits.  6x4 rep repeaters, reaches. Good session, felt ok.
t
w
T - let down for Tor, met up with Lagers for a potter around Burbage North, medium volume, low intensity, good fun.
f
S - max hangs, assisted lockoffs. Long time to get going but ok session in the end
s

Half term has stopped momentum on Call Of Nature and almost killed psyche to chase the grade, see how weather & partners work out for the next few weeks but more psyched for some trad grit than sport lime & feel unlikely to get it done this year now (I'd still have added a grade to sport, trad & bloc PBs this year so not too disappointed about it).

[shark]

Thanks fried

11.6-7

M.Lunch. Few locky moves on systems board and a couple of weighted hangs. Pulled out of Malham trip due to unpromising conditions report (subsequently vindicated)
T.PM Some deep locks feet on and off on systems board and Campus boardWeighted pullups and negatives. Eve More campus work at Foundry. Progress
W.
T.Round trip to Swansea
F.Noon. A few offset pulls and locks and C-board. Managed a big pull thrpugh I'd been working on. Felt bionic. Less is more. Eve. Rushed campus session. Close to 1-4-6 on med rungs. Late eve Drinking fine wines and watching Godfather2.
S.Bit hungover. Took Tommy to English x-counrty relay at Mansfield
S.Day1 on eatswood traverse. Did all moves except for last match.

Good progress on strength work. One more session on Tuesday then take it easy for a week or so.

[Nibile]

Really hard week, for many reasons.
Mon - rest.
Tue - rest.
Wed - Moonboard session at a friends'. Felt very good, flashed my first 7c. Vol 8. Int 9.
Thu - board. Easy session, one problem set and tried. Vol 2. Int 6.
Fri - started my climbing classes again. Wanted to fingerboard but due to bad planning I couldn't.
Sat - bouldering. Very poor. Hot, humid.
Sun - board. Hard to get going but not too bad. Vol 4. Int 7+.

Started the week very tired from the previous one and the comp. My right bicep was sore but now it seems fine. Generally a bit tired. Great Moonboard session, can't wait to go back.
Keep the fucking faith.

[cheque]

STG- 7A & E2 on grit this season. Retain/ increase sport fitness over winter.

M- Notts Depot. Circuit board session followed by some V1-V3 bouldering- realised previous claim to have 'done all the blues' was far from accurate. They felt hard after circuit board! 3 left.
T- Rest
W- Notts wall. Lots of bouldering (not sure of grades but didn't do anything that didn't feel hard for me- even sent some of them  ) Three routes on lead wall in a row (no resting inbetween)- 6b, 6a+, then 6c, the last of which I failed on. My grade estimates as they've gone back to UK tech grades for the routes for some reason. 
T- Assisted one-armers. Using 10kg assistance for deep four-finger slots one BM1000. Not sure how best to progress from this (smaller hold, more weight/ same hold less weight). Anyone? Deadlift- managed 120kg (2xBW) 
F- Rest
S- Unplanned sleep 'til 2PM. I blame deadlfting.
S- Depot. Managed first full lap of easiest circuit on circuit board, then did it again straight after. Bouldering after- did remaining three blues easily, then worked remaining reds (V3-V5). The few yellows I tried felt nails, but bouldering tends to after circuit board anyway so not disheartened.

No outdoor climbing this week. Hopefully both I and the weather will have our acts together this coming weekend.

[rich d]

Mon, tues, thurs fingerboard first time I've done a full set of repeaters on the hard slopers (it is a BM 1000 though anyone gets excited). Friday short session at depot notts - climbed like a cunt. Spent the weekend burning stuff and setting fireworks yesterday and in london with kids today.
Aims for next week, 3 sessions on FB work core and flexibility EVERY day, get outside at weekend and try beachball, don't drink during the week.

[duncan]

STG: Improve finger strength. Biscuit "V3"-"V5" circuit. Stay uninjured.
MTG: 7b by end year.
LTG: E5, Ambitious LH+F objectives in Switzerland, Dolomites and USA.

M - The Biscuit: bouldering, part Blues circuits ("V2" - "V3"). Short hill run.
T - Student's PhD viva 
W - The Biscuit: most Blues circuits ("V2" - "V3").
T - day trip to sunny Stoke-on-Trent (work-related)
F - The Biscuit: part Blues circuits ("V2" - "V3"), part Greens "V3"-"V5".
S - Sleep, mostly
S - The Biscuit: brief play, feeling tired.

Pretty good week for training.  Should have taken advantage of a reasonable forecast on Saturday but low on sleep and energy and didn't fancy the 6 hours of driving required.  The Green circuit is going to take a bit of work.  Steady as she goes.

[Muenchener]

Biscuit "V3"-"V5" circuit.  ... Blues circuits ("V2" - "V3").

Not sure if I would take those grades with such a pinch of salt. Maybe it's just me, but when I visited The Arch last year I found Arch V-grades very consistent with what I could do outside on real boulders.

At The Arch I was mostly getting V2/V3 onsight or in a couple of goes, and bagged a couple of V4s with a bit of work. At the time on real boulders outdoors I was getting 6A flashed or in a couple of goes, and 6B with  bit of work. Seems about right to me.

[andy_e]

STG: Climb in some good weather.
MTG: 7C again, 1-4-7
LTG: 7C+

M: Rest
T: Rest
W: ClimbNE, campussing session. Could only 1-4-6 once with my left and couldn't 1-3-6 at all. 1-4-3-4-3-4-3-4-3-4-3-4-3 (Whatever that's called) felt easy and pain free until I dropped off and my shoulders and elbows started screaming. Thankfully the pain only lasted a few seconds and was gone by the time I got to the second set. Probably spent too long trying problems before campussing as I felt tired on the board.
T: ClimbNE, general bouldering. Did some fun problems.
F: Rest
S: Brandrith for 30mins before it hailed. Trying to warm up on a 7C+ probably wasn't the best idea, but it was damp anyway and although Tom got close it wasn't a goer. Hail pushed us off to explore some nearby potential, unfortunately nothing came of it. Hunters, followed by Jino's. Dishlicious.
S: House-tidying.

Another frustrating not-much-done-due-to-weather week. More training this week and then some weekend rock squashing if the weather plays ball!

[tommytwotone]

LTG: Font 7b

M: Depot - finished off the few remaining tricky purples.
T: Woke up with stinking cold, went to work, left work at lunchtime.
W: Woke up feeling worse, took day off.
T: Still feeling awful, picked up new motor though.
F: Day off work, meant to be a holiday but still felt awful.
S: Finally felt a bit better, had a good few hours at Ilkley, even got up a few things. Depot after though was pretty shattered so sacked it pretty quickly.
S: Depot in afternoon, really good and decently sustained session in terms of duration and diffculty.

So my plan for a week of proper, structured training ruined by getting ill.

Main focus this week is to try and do some last minute prep for Battle Of Britain at The Depot on Saturday so I don't have too much of a shocker!

[Muenchener]

STG (this year): Steep pumpy 6b onsight, 7a redpoint.
MTG (2013):Continue to build alpine rock experience by ticking one or more long (> 20 pitches) routes and one or more big classic VI's.
   (2013):Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2
   (????): Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M.
T.
W. Wall, Heimstetten. Bouldering. Don't get to this wall often because it's some way out of town on the far side from where I live, but I should. The bouldering is totally my anti-style - steep burl - and therefore good for me. But: stupid injury. Fell, slammed foot into wall & bruised very painfully underneath big toe nail.
T. Public holiday in Bavaria. Weather iffy; planned to go hillwalking but shoes hurt due to toenail injury. Putting rockshoes on completely out of the question. So: wanted to get out of the house, but needed activities that don't involve shoes.
Wall, Boulderwelt: beastmaker & campusing.
Yoga class - first time I've been to an actual yoga class in ages. Enjoyed it.
F. Weights, office gym. OH squats, goblet squats, weighted pullups, db swings.
S. Wall, Boulderwelt. Toe pain precludes trying any projects, so did stamina session with as many problems as possible around my onsight limit on new 5C/6A circuit.
Bike 25 km to & from
S. Yoga, oh squats with broomstick for shoulder mobility, pressups

Weight: creeping back towards 80kg - probably reflecting the fact that I have done basically no general / aerobic training since coming back form the Dolomites in the summer.

[tomtom]

LTG 8B+, Alchemy and developing hangover pills.

M: Mental work day... drained drained drained at the end...
T: ALMSCLIFF.......... low on motivation, but a nice day to get out.... usual warm ups, squirmed my way up the usual 7's on the DWR area circuit.. then saw impending rain doom and headed down the hill.. stopped for a tentative feel on the keel, and 30 min later was back to my previous high points and even surpassed them (a large tickle on the pocket rather than a skimming skim..). Such are the tiny measures by which I pump up my ego with success... Id' kind of given up on the Keel - but looks like its game on for my winter cliff project.
W:
T:
F:
S: Toodled over to Holmfirth after the promised super weather didnt materialised. Again, low on motivation but got into it and made some inroads on the last remaining 7A+'s there...
Su: snooze....

Seem to be moving really well at the moment - grits feeling good. Not sure if its conditions or me... who knows!

[Duma]

STG - be fixed enough for font by end Nov
MTG - multiple 7C's this winter, 7C+
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M - shoulder seems a bit achey again, 12hrs at a desk and disturbed sleep prob not helping.
T - took 3yr old to wall, no climbing to speak of by me though.
W - short afternoon session at TCA, aim was easy stuff, mostly stuck to that, but got sucked into trying one of the harder greens which went fairly quick - a few folk have said this is around the 7B+ mark so pleased to get something tricky.
T - TCA eve, not so many greens left to go at now, started working one of the properly hard board style ones, got all moves bar the first two, which look like they'd hurt my shoulder so didn't try them. Finished off a steep 7B+ ish thing on the mothership too. Felt good to be trying hard on difficult moves again. Shoulder still bit achey though, but feels like a muscle thing at least.
F -
S - 12hr day shift - tiring, bit stressful
S - 12hr day shift - tiring, v stressful

70kg all week, except 69kg outlier on Tues.

Bit annoyed the shoulder's back, but no more weekends for a while so hope that'll help.