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open hand to crimp swap (Read 13070 times)

douglas

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#25 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 25, 2012, 07:19:43 pm
It's easy to do this by kipping but much harder static. Probably about 7B+?

Sasquatch

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#26 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 25, 2012, 09:09:14 pm
 :w00t:  I can't even hang a crimp one handed, much less roll from open into closed. 

are those guys really that strong?

Richie Crouch

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#27 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 25, 2012, 11:23:09 pm
I'd wager it's a fair step beyond 7B+ strength to do 1 armed open to crimp finger pullups!

slackline

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#28 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 26, 2012, 12:05:45 am
:w00t:  I can't even hang a crimp one handed, much less roll from open into closed. 

are those guys really that strong?

For a demonstation of how strong Micky Page is see him in (free too, nice one Nick  :clap2: )

a dense loner

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#29 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 26, 2012, 08:35:12 am
Sasquatch, no these guys aren't really that strong, not as we're being led to believe. After a bit of digging it was done by Jumping into a big edge, not gonna call it kipping cos it sounds ridiculous, still very impressive but not the myth that we're being sold

Three Nine

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#30 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 26, 2012, 08:54:16 am
This girl down the Foundry last night was doing multiple open-crimp switches (4 or 5) with feet on, then resting a bit and repeating.

rodma

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#31 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 26, 2012, 09:06:19 am
Sasquatch, no these guys aren't really that strong, not as we're being led to believe. After a bit of digging it was done by Jumping into a big edge, not gonna call it kipping cos it sounds ridiculous, still very impressive but not the myth that we're being sold

Which guys  :shrug:

a dense loner

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#32 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 26, 2012, 09:16:09 am
Well only one guy has been mentioned to be fair. Guys who I could think of off top of my head to do this static, poss u rodma, tim palmer, Moger in his prime, Malc, parsons, anyone that weighs less than 8 stone doesnt count in anything. not Micky, ned, dan, mike, can't think of any other good climbers, not that ure included in that category rodma  ;)

rodma

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#33 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 26, 2012, 09:25:47 am
Well only one guy has been mentioned to be fair. Guys who I could think of off top of my head to do this static, poss u rodma, tim palmer, Moger in his prime, Malc, parsons, anyone that weighs less than 8 stone doesnt count in anything. not Micky, ned, dan, mike, can't think of any other good climbers, not that ure included in that category rodma  ;)

do you mean douglas?

I can't touch it, but it is my ultimate training goal along with one hand flick between small rungs, but i fear these may be pipe dreams for me. It won't stop me from trying though  ;D

I know p-rob has done it, but I'm assuming by your sub 8stone comment that he doesn't count (I'll never be that light)

a dense loner

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#34 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 26, 2012, 09:31:53 am
No I actually meant earl, I don't know who Douglas is. Micky has just said he can do it on front 2 but he doesn't wanna talk about it, adding why dont people just go and climb the sad wankers. I was sticking to Brits to make It easier

rodma

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#35 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 26, 2012, 09:35:53 am
I don't know who douglas is either, but he claims it is 7b+, so I'm assuming he finds it a piece of piss.

Why would anyone just want to go climbing, that doesn't make any sense  :P

Three Nine

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#36 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 26, 2012, 10:51:56 am
No I actually meant earl, I don't know who Douglas is. Micky has just said he can do it on front 2 but he doesn't wanna talk about it, adding why dont people just go and climb the sad wankers. I was sticking to Brits to make It easier

You're friends with a guy that strong? That must be so awesome. How come you're always so reticent about it?

rodma

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#37 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 26, 2012, 10:56:48 am
No I actually meant earl, I don't know who Douglas is. Micky has just said he can do it on front 2 but he doesn't wanna talk about it, adding why dont people just go and climb the sad wankers. I was sticking to Brits to make It easier

You're friends with a guy that strong? That must be so awesome. How come you're always so reticent about it?

who shat in your coco pops this morning?

Three Nine

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#38 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 26, 2012, 11:00:43 am
Probably some strong guy i'm chummy with

a dense loner

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#39 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 26, 2012, 07:36:30 pm
That was a joke he can't really do it on 2fingers. U seem to have a bit of a bee in your bonnet about my friends. I must ave mentioned his name 3 times in 18 mths, they just so happen to be on this thread. What gives?

Three Nine

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#40 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 26, 2012, 08:06:25 pm
Im just a prick, ignore me.

a dense loner

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#41 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 26, 2012, 08:19:37 pm
I've heard and I'm trying to

Sasquatch

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#42 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 26, 2012, 08:41:59 pm
Glad to know that I'm still crap at fingers after dedicating a full year to it.  At least I know how to improve:

Lock myself in cellar and do nothing but fingerboard and eat broccoli for the winter.  i'll emerge in the spring like a climbing butterfly, pasty white and ready to fly. 

petejh

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#43 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 26, 2012, 09:04:07 pm
.....
Lock myself in cellar and do nothing but fingerboard and eat broccoli for the winter.  i'll emerge in the spring like a climbing butterfly, pasty white and ready to fly.

No doubt, you'd be rocket powered.

A good way to start training this might be by releasing slowly into open hand from a full crimp rather than vice versa.

Nibile

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#44 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 26, 2012, 10:20:16 pm
Today I found myself more than once thinking about where to put a campus rung to do this shit. It doesn't work on the BM rungs, I need something a bit incut I think. Luckily at the moment I still haven't found a suitable place.

ghisino

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#45 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 28, 2012, 09:54:55 am
this is based on a part of the same principles...haf way between finger rolls and finger pullups.


using it from time to time i'd say it is best suited to phases where for any reason you want to put in a lot of volume or forearm work, as it's best attribute is the "work/trauma" ratio

punkpunk

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#46 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 28, 2012, 01:32:39 pm
Looks like a lapis roly bar?
 http://www.lapisholds.com/cms/en/39-product-details/product/266-rollybar

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Clart

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#47 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 28, 2012, 01:42:27 pm
this is based on a part of the same principles...haf way between finger rolls and finger pullups.


using it from time to time i'd say it is best suited to phases where for any reason you want to put in a lot of volume or forearm work, as it's best attribute is the "work/trauma" ratio

Wow, 159.95 euros for that. One of these for a tenner would probably do the trick:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/conveyor-rollers/7614167/

ghisino

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#48 Re: open hand to crimp swap
October 28, 2012, 02:35:03 pm
this is based on a part of the same principles...haf way between finger rolls and finger pullups.


using it from time to time i'd say it is best suited to phases where for any reason you want to put in a lot of volume or forearm work, as it's best attribute is the "work/trauma" ratio

Wow, 159.95 euros for that. One of these for a tenner would probably do the trick:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/conveyor-rollers/7614167/

wow, inflation... :o

i had paid 85 euro including shipping in 2008 (still not cheap in hindsight)

Richie Crouch

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#49 Re: open hand to crimp swap
November 01, 2012, 02:41:40 pm
Did some of these today after a good warmup.

Used the medium Metolius rungs Doing 5 sets of 4 reps of open to half crimp (both arms together). Felt intense and a bit awkward as my middle finger is like E.T.'s index, So tends to bow above the others when trying to hang open.

Is anyone able to do this shit utilising the pinkie without having to flick a bit at the end to get it into the crimp? Trying to go as slow and static as poss.

Will give it a few more sessions and see if there is noticeable improvement.

 

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