[hobblingfool]

Tomoko Ogawa interview up on UKC now http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67550 in the interview she said:

“I thought I need more finger strength and reach. I did "finger pull ups" for a long time that I had seen Daniel Woods do in a DVD. It is like hanging on a campus board with open hand and close it to crimp and open and close over and over while you are hanging.” 

Has anyone else tried this? Sounds like a recipe for tendon/pulley injuries to me but maybe I’m wrong?

[slackline]

Tomoko Ogawa interview up on UKC now http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67550 in the interview she said:

“I thought I need more finger strength and reach. I did "finger pull ups" for a long time that I had seen Daniel Woods do in a DVD. It is like hanging on a campus board with open hand and close it to crimp and open and close over and over while you are hanging.” 

Has anyone else tried this? Sounds like a recipe for tendon/pulley injuries to me but maybe I’m wrong?

See here

[JohnM]

I have tried that open to crimp swap.  For some reason I found I could coordinate the transition with both hands and could only change one.  I guess there are benefits for fast explosive climbing where you deadpoint a hold open and quickly turn it into a crimp but I guess that chance of injury is very high!

[TobyD]

I have tried that open to crimp swap.  For some reason I found I could coordinate the transition with both hands and could only change one.  I guess there are benefits for fast explosive climbing where you deadpoint a hold open and quickly turn it into a crimp but I guess that chance of injury is very high!

I've never considered training this, but think that although you would probably be right that it's risky; if it's something you ever do at the crag, it's worth training in a very limited and controlled way.

[Richie Crouch]

I tried it once and couldn't do it at all!

[JohnM]

Rich, I guess it would be much harder for tall people with long fingers.  The distance to move the joint 1/n pi radians (where n is probably in the range 0.5 to 1 depending on how hard you are boning) would be much greater for a longer phalanx length leading to greater moment force needed.

[andy_e]

Which one of you has the longer phalanx? John? Rich?

[JohnM]

Rich has a longer phalanx but mine is thicker.

[Richie Crouch]

Might try and give it another go once the weather shits out properly. Thinking 1 foot on to start with and build up to it slowly.

[andy_e]

You're going to put one foot of your phalanx on an edge?

[rodma]

you can alternate hands whilst rather than  trying to crank both up at the same time, or try doing it on a campus board, moving from 1st to 4th rung with rh (say) and changing it to a crimp or half crimp before trying to match or pull through.

[quiffhanger]

Seems sensible if you're at a high enough level. On bouldering films it's pretty common to see the wads grab something open handed and flick it to a crimp before campusing off it to the next micro-edge.

Better to carefully practice in a controlled environment I guess...

[SA Chris]

My fingers ache at the thought of it.

[shark]

Might try and give it another go once the weather shits out properly. Thinking 1 foot on to start with and build up to it slowly.

A pulley and counter weight would be better

[tomtom]

Don't we all do this anyway?

Normally when I go for a hold I grab it open handed - and if its marginal I wind it in to make a crimp...
How often do you go for a hold straight away crimped? Dont think I ever do...

[rodma]

Don't we all do this anyway?

Normally when I go for a hold I grab it open handed - and if its marginal I wind it in to make a crimp...
How often do you go for a hold straight away crimped? Dont think I ever do...

You're probably correct, but that doesn't mean that training it is entirely without benefit.

[andy_e]

It'll help when you're full stretch and can't quite crimp down properly- being able to close up at full extension could be the difference between the send and the fail...

[slackline]

I don't think tomtom was suggesting training such movement wouldn't have any benefit.

[Stubbs]

It'll help when you're full stretch and can't quite crimp down properly

In that hypothetical situation having better open hand or half crimp strength would be more beneficial?  If you were at 'full stretch' then you wouldn't be able to close to a crimp!

[rodma]

It'll help when you're full stretch and can't quite crimp down properly

In that hypothetical situation having better open hand or half crimp strength would be more beneficial?  If you were at 'full stretch' then you wouldn't be able to close to a crimp!

Fucksticks this is getting shit.

Of course it would help. If you can build up to doing this exercise footless, then you literally are doing a finger pull up when you close up from open to half or full crimp

[Stubbs]

Ah I forgot the

It is obviously a useful exercise, and one than is terrifying, all I can think of when I've tried it is the poor pulleys handling the bowing tendons!

[rodma]

Ah I forgot the

It is obviously a useful exercise, and one than is terrifying, all I can think of when I've tried it is the poor pulleys handling the bowing tendons!

  it must be that time of the month, I'm oversensitive

[a dense loner]

Someone told me about 4yrs ago this was how earl trained and it was really beneficial. I could do it first go for ages, I don't want or need medals I thought it was a waste of time and never did it again

[rodma]

Someone told me about 4yrs ago this was how earl trained and it was really beneficial. I could do it first go for ages, I don't want or need medals I thought it was a waste of time and never did it again

you can do a one-handed finger pull up 

[a dense loner]

Unkle Micky told me it was on one arm 2mins ago rodma, this was never disclosed to me! Did wonder what all the fuss was about.