"Yes, you are right! I am using the open grip in that picture It's my favorite position on small holds instead of the half-crimp. Personal taste aside, it's less harmful for pulleys and tendons.Personally, I started to use this grip type just after I completely torn my ring finger's A2 pulley (no functional trace of it was left! :-/). I had been climbing only for 2 years by that time, so I got really scared, and I made a decision: to work the slope grip for almost every type of hold in order to prevent more injuries. I love to climb...you know.Because of that, when I pull on small holds, I intuitively apply the open grip.If you read carefully the poster, you will notice that in the 1st line, 3rd column, I recommend the following:"Grip type used: starting with the half crimp or open crimp position and proceeding to training with the open hand crimp" So...half crimp is correct on small edges, but depending on the relative length of your fingers, specially of your pinkie (I think this fact affects the choice or tendency to use one grip type or other) and your objectives, you can train the half crimp or the open grip. But I strongly recommend you to try to get used to the open grip."
I've no idea when I'm crimping if I'm half- or full-crimping. I could google image search but I'm pretty sure all I'd get would be pasties and pies. Anyone got any links to any decent half crimp info?
I could google image search but I'm pretty sure all I'd get would be pasties and pies.
no one (I know) half crimps using two or one finger
Quote from: shark on October 22, 2012, 11:35:22 am no one (I know) half crimps using two or one finger A lot of people back 2 on a half crimp (at least the ring finger is half crimped). For me it's the only way I can fit back 2 on a small hold, Stu does it out of choice 'cos he's a freak.
Looking forward to getting on a campus board without the irrational rational fear of getting injured if I half crimp!
when open-handing (in comparison to half-crimping) it is much easier to apply a load to the tendons that is too harsh as the effect of friction may cause you to hang on, whereas with the half crimp you will be more likely to let go.
I'd like to know which grip is fundamentally stronger, in terms of biomechanics.
For me it's easier to hang beneath a hold open handed than crimped. When it comes to moving off a hold I find it doesn't make too much difference if I'm moving dynamically, but if I have to lock deep then I have to crimp. When open handing your palm is parallel to the rock, when you're locking lower than shoulder height the wrist angle makes this difficult to maintain.When the going gets tough a crimp for me always feels the most secure, probably because I've wrapped my thumb over.
I've been injured both both with crimped/half crimped and open handed. The injuries were all different. Fancy that!