Hi guys,
I've got a groin injury which has kinda stopped play on my climbing (supposed to be in Kalymnos right now - not happy!).
So good opportunity to focus on some strength stuff to kick-off the winter. I've neglected it for a couple of years so time to redress the balance (got up a few F8a's this year but never bouldered harder than Font 7b).
Here's my plan for the next ~8 weeks. Focusing purely on finger strength as:
a) Seems like a sensible place to start
b) I'm not convinced they've got any stronger in the past 10 years I'm curious to see if it's possible!
I've got a beastmaker in my flat & I've figured out 7 different grips covering slopers, pockets, open handed, half crimp. They are all ones I can hang between 6 & 10 seconds if fresh.
I try to hang the grip for 10s, rest for 10 and repeat 3 times. 5min rest between sets then move onto the next grip. Once I've done them all, start again. Repeat 3 (still feel pretty fresh at this point).
The idea is that once I manage to regularly hold a grip for the full 10s (say, every rep, every set for 3 sessions) I make it harder and repeat. I'm diligently recording every set so I can track progress.
Questions:
How does the 10 on, 10 rest x 3 breakdown sounds?
What about rest times?
I'm aiming to take only 1 rest day a week as the sessions aren't very intense: going for the little and often approach.
Is 8 weeks long enough to see gains?
To be honest, it feels like a shedload of resting and very little hanging, but I'm told that's what you want for strength? I'm certainly not getting pumped or anything.
Advice appreciated!
-ross
