[nai]

First session on this today but couldn't figure the moves from the third bolt having made the clip off the back-hand. Clock's ticking on the season so any advantage would be welcome for next time...

I assume you head right from here to the big sica'd incut not left to the crozzly sidepull?

I tried rearranging in all sorts of ways but nothing seemed to click, couldn't keep feet low on the big polished right-foot holds so was scrapping around on the small edges. There is a good higher hold, possible to rockover on that maybe?

Any ideas much appreciated.

Cheers

[Nigel]

Beta is to clip from gaston, then shuffle about on edges to get left hand on a really small sharp gaston sidepull thing. Its pretty minging but hey it’s the Tor! If you’re tall then right foot on good low hold and get sika edge in RH. Otherwise you have to use the tiny tiny foot nubbins and pounce at it. I had to at 5’9”. They do work but need good boots. Now either be strong and get an Egyptian in from there, or as I found easier, LF step through to good foot out right, LH slap slopey rib crozzle sidepull (was a big stretch for me this), this then really helps to get LF on good edge by bolt, slap good hold, done.

[abarro81]

I remember sitting on a high rf after getting the sika to go up left, flagging with lf. Probably the hold Nigel says he puts his lf on

[nai]

Thought it might have something to do with that nasty gaston, I was using the big sharp crimp for RH and the thing just above for LH, had to get feet up onto the edges (5'6" but no excuses, taller than Zippy) and pounced for the crimp below the sika but couldn't go again. Think I was being a bit of a pussy trying not to wreck my skin with a rare weekend of climbing ahead, have to get stuck into it next time.

Found the move off the sika quite straightforward which was surprising as I'd heard from a few folk it was the crux, maybe the RP crux.

Cheers fellas, gives me something to work at next week.

[Nigel]

Yeah it wrecks the skin easy, good shout if you had better things to use it on! I found crimp beneath sika was much easier to get but then really hard to use to move feet and go again, better just to go straight for sika. I also know some footholds for this bit have kicked the bucked since Zippy's FA, though I have no idea what difference as have only seen it in one state. Crux is very definitely move to sika, by miles. Anyone who says any different is massive.

[nai]

Crux is very definitely move to sika, by miles. Anyone who says any different is massive.

That'll be Leeroy... but he may have meant the RP crux.

[leeroy]

Crux is very definitely move to sika, by miles. Anyone who says any different is massive.

That'll be Leeroy... but he may have meant the RP crux.

I meant both! but im tall so the move to sika thing felt ok if the crimp was in good condition. the way i went to the good ear off the sika thing was off low feet and have since seen better ways of doing it.

[Bonjoy]

I thought the crux was higher up. But I did do it a couple of years ago and this is the Tor, so you may be climbing a different set of holds by now.

[TobyD]

Yeah it wrecks the skin easy... Crux is very definitely move to sika, by miles. Anyone who says any different is massive.

I agree x3.

I could just do the move with low feet and a small jump (I'm less than 5'9) but only in isolation and it seems very low percentage for me anyway. High R foot rockover & snatch off the horrible gaston is the way to go I reckon

[nai]

Cheers for all the help guys, been back on it this morning and managed to workout a but of a hybrid of your suggestions.  I'm yet to link it all together but it's my fifth day on and I have two fingers with tape and superglue over holes, abrasions and blisters so hopefully when fresher....
 
From the backhand clip:
RH to crescent crimp
LH gnarly gaston
RH back down to sidepull (née backhand)
build feet up, RF on matchstick edge, LF on one of a few nubbins out left (probably never been used before).
Deadpoint RH to sika
LF step straight through outside edge into good hold above matchsticks
stretch LH across for crozzly sidepull
RF on smear out right, fold LF o/s edge into crescent crimp
adjust RF up onto slightly better edge
pop and sort of roll your shoulders going LH for incut.

Not quite over for me at this point, struggling to make the next few moves but saw someone using the heel beta after I'd finished so will give that a go next time.

Can't wait 

[leeroy]

the heel is really solid nai, if youre trying it this week i could maybe give you a belay, i fancy trying the toilet before it gets too cold.

[nai]

don't think I can get back there this week, early Wednesday is possible but the weather looks poor, how keen are you?  Otherwise next Monday and Thursday.

[205Chris]

Not quite over for me at this point, struggling to make the next few moves but saw someone using the heel beta after I'd finished so will give that a go next time.

That heel beta is dynamite. If you get it in well you can really sit on it and it takes the sting out of the next few moves. I also extended the next clip so I could clip with the heel still in position it felt that solid.

Admittedly a tor veteran frowned at me when I recited this beta. Either that or he'd never heard of a heel before.

[nai]

Ah, good call, if it works as well as I envisage it could then it could be the difference because I don't think there's gonna be a lot left in my arms should when I make it to that point, I was really struggling to make that section as easy as it should be given the fact it's supposed to be all over by then.